oil in one cylinder but perfect compression fresh rebuild???

[Blackcountryboy]

Rebuilder86...Thank you! This might actually be it!!! Although the only thing on the car that wasn't re rebuilt was the head. It sat for 3 yrs in the garage, so like you say has prob a cracked valve stem seal. Its one or the other. Just waiting on a valve spring removal tool from the states. Will keep you all posted....

[Blackcountryboy]

More I think about it I think your right about the stud! The oil looked fresh bubbling out the exh gasket. Plug looked wet and jet black. I removed these studs to fit a thermotec intake gasket n check the shim clearances etc. Trying to picture the stud layout etc... You've got me thinking! Would explain just that one cylinder having good compression etc but filling with oil!!! I'm back in the fight, thanks again all for your thoughts and advice. Think we might be onto something...

[rebuilder86]

yeh but that valve spring compressor u bought will still be a frikn good tool. im guessing u got the overhead one with the arms for doing it with the head on?

[rebuilder86]

and id be doing the seals anyway if the head had sat open for a while.
u stuff some insulated wire into the cylinder at bottom dead centre, then turn the engine by hang so that the wire stuffed in the cylinder pushes the valves up and holds them there while u remove the collets and retainers and all that.

[Blackcountryboy]

Your right Re builder, should do the seals at the same time. Bought one of those magnetic hammer tools n some long nose seal pliers. Working 5am - 5pm here in the UK 6 days a week at the min and its dark every night before I get home so itching to check those manifold studs. There's 3 around cylinder 2. Dont suppose on that thread you remember which ones the culprit? Thread on the head for the old studs wasn't too clever so I remember using marginly bigger bolts from work on some of them to tighten up the head not knowing at the time about that oil gallery stud....

[rebuilder86]

i did quite a bit of reading about it after i posted to u and it seems a common issue after rebuilds, and all of the posts said it was the very middle bolt that was the culprit.
the remedy was for the gasket to be replaced again, and oil proof thread lock applied to the stud and inserted before the manifold is installed.
u are probably one of thousands who have this problem after a rebuild.

[Blackcountryboy]

I love this forum Thanks again for this invaluable info Rebuilder! I've spent the best part of a ur searching for ghost vac leaks, head gasket issues, injector issues, cam belts been off 4 times, dizzy issues, points, leads, map etc etc all for one bolt!!! Dude, soon as I've sorted this I'll post to confirm your right. Thanks once again to everyone who's helped me...

[rebuilder86]

I love this forum Thanks again for this invaluable info Rebuilder! I've spent the best part of a ur searching for ghost vac leaks, head gasket issues, injector issues, cam belts been off 4 times, dizzy issues, points, leads, map etc etc all for one bolt!!! Dude, soon as I've sorted this I'll post to confirm your right. Thanks once again to everyone who's helped me...

yeh please do let us know how u go.
ghost vacuum leaks hey, im well familiar with that one.
Let this oil leak continue in ur manifold and you have another ghost vacuum leak.

[Blackcountryboy]

Would a spat out exhaust bucket shim keep compression somehow (150psi hot) but stop a cylinder firing???

Thanks

Chris

[rebuilder86]

YES!
gasses xan compress and get in, but cant get out. uve found the problem

[Blackcountryboy]

Dude, the shim had jumped off the valve but got trapped under the bucket so their was no cam clearance (7 others were 0.25-0.35mm offending valve had 0 clearance) and the valve wouldn't be closing fully. If it was stuck down don't understood how it made 150psi! Still confused?

Just put it all back together again. Intake 4 degrees retarded, exh 4 deg advanced. Eventually started.

Only pulled 6 hg n shuddered but sounded like its now running on all 4 pots.

Gonna buy a degree wheel and try zeroing the cams straight up.Saturday. wanted to play with the can timing but darkness beat me again!

Thanks again. Any thoughts/tips are appreciated.

Chris

[73GTV]

You had to treat this like a fresh engine build , so break in oil was to be used during your first rebuild, was that part of your assembly process?

Now you are just chasing conditions due to lack of operation. I do not have any suggestions short of tear it down and start over, which I hope that I am wrong!

How many hours of operation of driven distance did it have before storage/non-use?

My thought was a burr on the oil ring groove which may cause the ring to compress but remain stuck in the ring groove, but a leak down check would have identified an issue with that specific cylinder.

Good luck on the troubleshooting.

[Blackcountryboy]

Hey it had about 1k on the first rebuild. Started first time and ran like a champ till I like an idiot ragged the hell out it racing a Bentley GT, and spun a rod bearing. Sat for 3 yes. Rebuilt it COMPLETELY like a fresh rebuild bu, rings, rods, gaskets, the car just seems to hate me now lol.

Hoping I've sorted it, gonna play with the cams and timing Saturday.

If that fails I'm pulling the head and getting it rebuilt again professionally.

Did the exhaust valve seals this week (only 1k on them but thought they may have dried out, exh were like new) but couldn't get to the intake seals so might be a good excuse to pull the head anyways.

Fingers crossed this time lol.

Thanks

Chris

[Blackcountryboy]

Had a play with the cams today...

FIRING ON ALL 4 POTS!!!

16 HG Timings not even reset yet. Sounds and feels MUCH MUCH better.

THANKYOU EVERYONE for all your help getting my baby running again. Only took me a year lol.

Really really buzzing happy!

Chris

[rebuilder86]

Had a play with the cams today...

FIRING ON ALL 4 POTS!!!
Chris

So what exactly was it then? was it just that slipped cam bucket?