Thanks Daddio, I know I havent solved it yet, but Im glad to get a response from someone so I know Im not talking to an empty room. I did a few more tests last;
-Checked for 12v across all the coilpacks to make sure they are getting the juice they need
-Fix an oil leak(although this had nothing to do with the issue)
-Looked at ECUmasters webpage with my cursor hovering over the PMU unit contemplating my future.
I did notice though that as I blip the throttle, or just give it ANY throttle it almost dies before it revs. Is this an indication that the TPS is off?
I did a boost leak test, and it seemed to hold up to about 20lbs. After that some of the vacuum lines started to hiss. I have a manual boost controller on it at the moment which I have turned all the way down to 6psi so 20psi is a little excessive and I fell like I should be okay. Also would like to note that compression tested the motor and it came back perfect across the board and that all the gaskets on the motor have been replaced.(Intake, throttle body, V-covers, ETC)
What do you need an ultrasonic leak detector for? A/C leak somewhere?
Nope...I have a gas tester for tracing a/c leaks....I need an ultrasonic sniffer for tracing vacuum leaks in antique pianolas that I rebuild as a hobby (almost 200 leather valves, 100 cloth/leather bellows and several hundred feet of vacuum tubing...all under around 30-40" of water vacuum created by foot pedalled bellows)...24 valve 6 cylinders are a walk in the park in comparison
There are 176 valves in this pic (88 you can see, plus another 88 you cant see, and around 20 more in other areas)...each has a clearance of 32 thousands of an inch, clearances set by gluing the wooden and leather components together. Each has to be vacuum/air tight, and must move freely (wooden shaft in a wooden hole) without side play...there are also over 100 bellows, each air tight and aligned, and obviously 88 keys (yes, real ivory and ebony) that are balanced to 0.1g and then levelled (with paper shims) to 0.01mm ...
[QUOTE=Daddio;1617257]There are 176 valves in this pic (88 you can see, plus another 88 you cant see, and around 20 more in other areas)...each has a clearance of 32 thousands of an inch, clearances set by gluing the wooden and leather components together. Each has to be vacuum/air tight, and must move freely (wooden shaft in a wooden hole) without side play...there are also over 100 bellows, each air tight and aligned, and obviously 88 keys (yes, real ivory and ebony) that are balanced to 0.1g and then levelled (with paper shims) to 0.01mm ...
That is super cool!! I know nothing about something like that, but it looks like the ultimate tinkering dream.
I messed with my car a little more and moved the TPS around to see if the throttle "blip" issues would go away. It got better, but its still not running the way it should. Im having a friend look it over this week that has a few 1jz swapped cars with hopes that he can figure it out by swapping parts over from one of his cars.
TPS is a possible culprit....CPS also.
TPS is new, and I calibrated it according to this DIY:
http://www.mk3supra.org/topic/56-gui...#comment-16225
I have not touched the crank position sensor. I figured if it was bad, the car wouldn't even run.
Last edited by jdesign; 15-09-2017 at 12:39 AM.
My VVT 1J had a occational miss under full boost (12psi). I changed plugs, ignitor, coil packs, ran a power wire straight from the ignitor to a relay to the battery for max voltage etc Could not stop it. I ended up buying an AEM UEGO and AEM F/IC6. Turns out my mixtures were richer then 10:1! I leaned it out a bit at WOT and it seams to be fine. I also backed off the timing a little.
I think my issue is a mix of things so its hard to pin point. I plan on just running ECUMaster standalone after this season. I am giving up trying to figure out what the problem is. According to my wide-band its leaning out a lot with RPM/Throttle, but I find that really hard to believe because I am chewing through fuel and the exhaust is super rich.
Maybe some cylinders are rich, some lean? a wide band will only give you an average of all 6 cylinders. Get the injectors flow tested?
I was thinking about that this morning. If one injector is stuck open then that would make a lot of sense. Thanks for the idea! I will have them checked.
BTW, V6 Camry igniters do work on J engines, even tho the part numbers are different. Just plug them in and they work (I have done it) - Well don't forget to ground the body of the igniter lol
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