Posted in other thread. Also do you have an st205 or are you fitting an st205 engine into an st185 or tge like? As the issue your having sounds similiar to when i did mine and used a patch loom that had been made incorrectly a little....
Hey all, bin trying to get my freshly rebuilt 3sgte to idle and run for months. You name it I've checked it.
Basically hard to start, isles for a min, leans out on my WB to 18 b19 then dies.
Wires on my IAC are knackered an 2 are broken!!!
Checked the net and BGB but still don't know which way round the wires are Spose to go? Could someone PLEASE help me out and tell me which way round the wires on the plug go???
Thanks soooo much for helpin me again. You lot are like the A team!!!
Chris
Posted in other thread. Also do you have an st205 or are you fitting an st205 engine into an st185 or tge like? As the issue your having sounds similiar to when i did mine and used a patch loom that had been made incorrectly a little....
Hey Jonathon. Thanks yet again. Much appreciatted. It's an st205, had the engine out and rebuilt it again to go in a diffrent direction (was low compression running 8.0:1 + ft3082r + fmic but sucked off boost on the street so gone 9.3:1 + gt2860rs + HUGE wta CC with nos later!). Loom been out a few times and plugs have started comin off. Wrote down colours but still not starting and idling right. Figured cos its hard to start (flooding?) Then leaning out till it stalls (iac opening instead of closing?) Maybe that's the prob (rsc/rso reversed??). You name it, I've checked it... What do you think?
Tried to open the iac pic you posted me on my rubbish phone (don't own a pc) but its not happening.
I wired the iac green (rso), black/yellow (b+), red (rsc) (top to bottom) using heat shrinked female spades, is this right?? Nets sayin the opposite, but I'm 90% sure that's how the plug was?
Btw the throttlebody coolant lines are bypassed, is it for real with the wax valve? Could this be my prob you think given the symptoms?
Thanks again for helping me solve this man I'm still learning ... None of my pals are petrolheads..So its really appreciated!!!
Last edited by Blackcountryboy; 20-12-2016 at 11:54 AM.
I cant see how its the throttle body coolant lines.
On the plug you got a funny notch to one side of the plug. That should be black/white-RSO, then black yellow-power then green/white-RSC
Has the tps itself been off the throttle body, or has the throttle stop been adjusted? You may need to check that the tps is set right. Could be all sorts off issues or a combination...lol
Coolant lines to throttle body I believe are to prevent the iscv sticking in cold weather. Possible some other emissions reasons I myself have blocked them Off on a stock 205 ecu with no noticeable negative affects. Rule that out.
I vote tps adjustment and possible wiring issue.
Unless the lean out is from a blocked fuel filter or dying pump?
1990 ST185 Running stock Gen 3 power, 216awhp at 15psi. 13.6 second down the quarter
Hey all. Thanks for all your replays and help.
Tried again this afternoon without luck to get her to idle.
Starts after lots of cranking...
10 AFR and purs
Within 20 secs upto 15 AFR and starts spluttering
Within a min is at 19-22 AFR and dies no matter if I rev/nurse or not.
Fuel filter, fuel pump are both brand new.
Solid 2.5 bar of fuel pressure on my SARD fpr. Tried diffrent pressures, 3: 3.5 bar. No difference. Still leans out quicker than it can even get warm.
Fuel tanks full to the brim. Have a walbro feeding a swirl pot, feeding a 300 lph external pump.
Rail is twin fed. Relief line goes back to the swirlpot.
Injectors all ultrasonically cleaned 4 days ago and perfect according to the tester.
Ecu temp sensor in the water necks also brand new.
Tried reversing the iac wires. Made no difference.
Tps closed during idle.
60 kpa (18 HG) vac cold. Btw its like 2 degrees here in Yorkshire so the car was stone cold when I tried to get her to idle.
Timings spot on. Compressions 200 psi across every cylinder.
Soon as it fired I had a solid orange CEL light but no codes?????
New coil, dizzy, rotor, plugs, wires all in spec. Actually purs at 10 Afr just leans out SOOOO fast then dies.
You lot are top fellas for repling and helping me work this out.
Took a week for the engine swap. 4 months and counting to get her to idle. It's all I want for Christmas lol. Driving me nuts now...
Gotta be iac or ecu (stock)???
Somethin weird or maybe not, soon as the ignitions turns off and the pumps stop, the fuel rail loses ALL pressure within a few secs. Normal? Never really noticed till all this started not playin ball... Pressures SOLID on the SARD till I kill the ignition (External pumps hardwired on a relay off the batterry btw). Could a faulty fpr make the car start rich then lean out to stalling in under a min?
Thanks guys
Chris
Last edited by Blackcountryboy; 21-12-2016 at 05:50 AM.
Does this engine run a cold start injector ?
What happens if you try to rev the engine a bit after it has started ?
Cheers... jondee86
gen 3 = no cold start injector
1990 ST185 Running stock Gen 3 power, 216awhp at 15psi. 13.6 second down the quarter
I remember a thread years ago about similar problems from a 1UZ (maybe started by Cruzida). Started up fine, then would lean out to the extreme. Ended up being dodgy oxy sensors (despite being quite new). Could that be a possibility? Maybe try unplugging the O2 sensor and seeing if anything changes.
I need a working 4AGE bottom end. Pref smallport GZE, but all others considered. Also complete motors.
Drift Volvo. Was fun. 2JZ next time.
Yeh, unplug the factory O2 sensor.
Also, you know you need to bridge te1 and e1 in the diag box to pull error codes.
Last edited by jonathan yee; 21-12-2016 at 11:37 AM.
Have you tested the MAP sensor ?
Cheers... jondee86
Hey all, thanks for the replays!
Thought the 02 was only used in closed loop? Yeah tried unplugging it. No joy.
Jon - MAP sensors the only thing I've mot tested yet. Thought it only measures positive pressure and not vacuum so wouldn't affect the idle? Am I way off?
Thanks again everyone and merry belated Christmas! Gonna try a new fuel pump and filter tmrw and see if that helps. Just still don't understand the Cel with no codes???
Chris
Boosted engines work the same as non-boosted engines when they are off boost and idling. So your MAP sensor will measure both vacuum and boost. Theory is that if the sensor is faulty and reporting more vacuum (lower absolute pressure) than it should, the ECU will reduce fueling. If the fuel is reduced far enough, the mixture will lean out until it will no longer burn, and the engine dies.
This is only a theory, but as it appears that the ECU is causing the engine to lean out, it is worth checking the MAP sensor. Or try swapping in another sensor if you have a spare or can borrow one for testing.
Cheers... jondee86
Bookmarks