What ECU are you running?
Fuel injector pulse stopping is a method to clear flooding, so that would be expected.
From recollection there is a water temp sensor in that elbow for the ECU as well.
Hey all. Just wondered if maybe u guys could pls help me?
I have about 20 mins running time on my fleshly rebuilt gen. 2/3 3sgte and am ripping my hair out trying to get her to start reliably so I can set the timing.
My problem is after a few seconds of cranking I'm losing all injector pulse. (nold light stops flashing)???
Have spark, compression and fuel pressure so it's gotta be timing or a sensor.
Symptoms no temp readout on the dash and my rad fans comin on soon as the keys in the ignition.
Would a bad temp sensor cause it to run lean on start up? Or kill my injector pulse?
Rad sensor or elbow sensor for ecu? AFAIK the. Elbow sensor is just for the gauge
I've set the dizzy in the middle position any thoughts? Adjusting it doesn't seem to help.
I've cleaned the injectors in redex and the all click when tested with a 9v battery.
Don't know if this matters but it's a 9.3:1 comp forged st205 running a 3sge intake cam...
So basically my question is would a.temp sensor.or timing affect starting. Frustrating thing is it started and ran ok for a bit with these symptoms. I'm lost.
Thanks alot for reading. Any thoughts no matter how daft would be massively appreciated.
Btw I've changed the fuel filter and cleaned the magnetic pickups on the dizzy. Also checked all my grounds...
200psi. On each cylinder. Good spark and fuel pressure like I say... Am ready to throw in the towel...
What ECU are you running?
Fuel injector pulse stopping is a method to clear flooding, so that would be expected.
From recollection there is a water temp sensor in that elbow for the ECU as well.
"If you try to fail, and succeed, which have you done?"
My ST185 with 278awkw (2.2L is running...)
1:08.08s @ Wakefield 1:37.29s @ Winton
27.90s @ Esses Hillclimb
Stock for now as my Fcon died. Tried foot flat to the floor injector clear... No joy. Gotta be summat to do with the temp sensor (bought a new one tonight on fleabay) or timing. Thanks for the reply. Would LOVE a 2.2 stroker 😀 What turbo are u running for 280atw?
Pure speculation, as I don't know how the fans are controlled on your car. But electric fans are usually wired in a failsafe mode that turns the fans on if the wiring goes open circuit (plug off, relay fail, broken wire etc). So if the ECU switches the fans on using the ECU temp sensor for reference, then wiring fault or bad sensor. If the fans are turned on by a thermo switch in the water circuit, then wiring fault or broken thermoswitch (if it is the type that closes on rise in temp).
Thermoswitch control will have no effect on start and run. But a temp sensor that fails to ground (low resistance) would likely indicate high temp to the ECU. The ECU would then most likely cut cold start enrichment which would contribute to hard/no start when cold. Check the resistance of your temp sensor to ground. If it is 200 Ohms or less, then the sensor is bad.
All speculation, but it might give you a clue as to where to look
Cheers... jondee86
I'm sure you have done it, but seriously go over all plugs to make sure they are plugged in the right spot.
So you say stock ecu, but is it gen 2 or gen 3 stock ecu?
For my car, running a HKS 3037s and e85 to make that power...plus a lot of other things.
"If you try to fail, and succeed, which have you done?"
My ST185 with 278awkw (2.2L is running...)
1:08.08s @ Wakefield 1:37.29s @ Winton
27.90s @ Esses Hillclimb
May or may not be relevant here, but I seem to remember something about a missing IGf signal causing the ECU to pull the injection after a few seconds.
IGf is the feedback signal to the ECU that tells it that there was a succesful spark pulse from the ignitor (to the coil). If this is not present then the ECU fears that it is just pumping fuel into the engine and it is not being ignited, so it stops.
I need a working 4AGE bottom end. Pref smallport GZE, but all others considered. Also complete motors.
Drift Volvo. Was fun. 2JZ next time.
Thanks EVER SO MUCH to EVERYONE that replied to me. She LIVES!!! Cleaned the magnetic pick ups again (nice work Hen 👍 ) cleaned the injectors, adjusted the tips, retarded the timing cos a 0 tdc the rotor was just past no1 inside the dizzy. Literally FIRED UP AND PURRED FIRST CLICK. Everyone's food for thought got me motivated after a 12 hour nightshift to stick at it.
One question tho... Temp gauge and fuel gauge still not working (new sensor comin tmrw) EVERYTHING ELSE (boost, rpm, speedo) works... So... Do they all have separate capacitors on the back or run together if u know what I mean if anyone knows?
Car was sat for 3 years so the fuel sender could well be stuck (filled the tank last week tho) and could the temp sensor go bad sitting? (drained coolant after I spun a bearing).
Not working tmrw so gonna crack on.
THANKYOU again EVERYONE for replying. All appreciated. 👍👍👍
So just when I thought I'd sorted it... It gets WORSE...
Got her started and running yesterday... Went to try and set the timing today ( its slightlyretarded on the dizzy). She started about 4th aattempt ticked over for a few mins then made the most sickening mechanical/compression sounding LOUD BANG from outta nowhere then woulded start again.
Igntion is slightlyretarded. Exhaust cam only is slightly advanced a few deg (long story). Ideally I wanna set it at zero and the dizzy at 10. Btdc but can't get her to warm up long enough long enough to set it!
Any thoughts on Wtf that bang could be caused by?
Thanks again.
Chris.
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