Tried another ecu?
Did the engine temperature seem to make a difference?
Hey Guys,
I have an Auto Jzx100 that has started to act up on me. A couple of months ago I was cruising along, took my foot off the throttle to pull up somewhere and it just started idling really high- Around the the 2k mark. Turned it off and when I started it up again it had a really low idle- Around the 300rpm mark. I reset the ecu and it was ok for a couple of days then it was back to idling really low and stalling out when coming to a standstill. I went overseas for a month and left the battery disconnected during that time and when I came back it ran fine for a few weeks but then it started to act up again. Now it doesn't really want to idle at all, it just stalls out if you give it no throttle, but it does seem to run fine if you keep the revs up with the throttle.
1. I have checked for codes and it doesn't seem to be throwing anything
2. I have cleaned the ISCV...well as good as I could anyway
3. Cleaned the MAF
Do you have an ideas where I should start looking?
Tried another ecu?
Did the engine temperature seem to make a difference?
I haven't tried another ECU but I did open it up and there wasn't any leaky caps or anything.
Did a bit more testing on the weekend. After it was warm it did idle at around 500rpm. Took it for a drive and when I pulled up it was idling around 1k. Turned it off and back on again still at 1k. Left it and let it cool down, upon startup it wouldn't idle again.
Any ideas?
Coolant temp sensor perhaps.
Nope different sensors
Just tested the coolant temp sensor
Cold- 2250ohm
Hot- 400ohm
Is that within spec?
FYI this ended up being a faulty vvti solenoid. Replaced that and it runs like a dream again!
Back to square one again! Thought it was fixed and drove some where on Sat night, came back around 2 hours later and it didn't want to run without any throttle. I got it running by starting with some throttle, it idled but very low -around 200rpm.
When I got it home I tried disconnecting the maf and starting to see if it ran any differently but it wouldn't run at all...without throttle anyway. Upon connecting the maf back up again it ran normal again...until it seems when I shut off the engine and go to restart again. If I disconnect the maf and then start it again it will run fine again until I shut off and you guessed it disconnecting the maf and reconnecting it temporarily fixes it!
Any ideas on what it might be? I'm about to lose my shit lol
Last edited by Toon; 06-09-2016 at 06:12 AM.
Any trouble codes so far? Or will we keep on guessing?
Basically could be anything from messed wiring to cracked coils (coil caps) to vvti cam gear acting up to faulty AFM etc etc
Start with most apparent things like trouble codes, checking sensor voltages to be within specs when the problem occurs, fuel pressure when under load, fuel in fuel regulator's vacuum line, and so on
Mind you leaky caps are sometimes not apparently leaky
USSR GAZ24 with 1UZ-FE VVTi (UCV24) http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/showthread.php?t=60301
Engine conversion is when you drive a shitbox which costs a whole LEXUS to own
There have been no error codes so far when I bridge te1 and e1 terminals. Would connecting up to something like tech stream likely reveal any codes when the manual method isn't?
What do you mean by coil caps? I have replaced the coil connectors and the coils themselves don't appear to be cracked.
Vvti cam gear? What do you mean by that? I have replaced the vvti solenoid
Is there any way to test the AFM or should I just try a replacement?
Ok this is weird. It is idling at like 2000rpm now! Any ideas wtf might be going on?
what exactly happened when you bridged the terminals? No error codes would make the warning light constantly flash at high rate.
Coil bottom rubber seals can fade over time, also coil's case may contain small cracks, sometimes barely visible but enough to lose voltage before it gets to the plug
vvti cam gear is big stuff driven by timing belt. It has two rubber seals which can develop leaks, and it can also seize
AFM: disconnect battery, disconnect AFM, try to start. Should run ok at low rpm without AFM
USSR GAZ24 with 1UZ-FE VVTi (UCV24) http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/showthread.php?t=60301
Engine conversion is when you drive a shitbox which costs a whole LEXUS to own
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