Any diff place will be able to make you the drive shaft and balance it with whatever york.
How you planning on getting the speed signal to the ecu to work?
Hi guys
Doing the swap behind a 2jz in a mx83. Please no 'why not use a r154', thanks
*I read threw a old post by 'ed' re:adaptor plates. He recomended using a 13mm deep spigot bearing, want to know why this is vs a normal 10mm deep bearing that dosent protrude?? Tried to inbox him but it was ful.
*is there any real reason why I shouldn't use the standard tailshaft just with a new yoke and shortened to the approperate length? I intend on keeping 2pc to minimise the chances of vibration at high speed.
Thanks
Any diff place will be able to make you the drive shaft and balance it with whatever york.
How you planning on getting the speed signal to the ecu to work?
I've never had a speed signal to the ecu for the passed 4years so I don't think I'll need one lol.
Haven't descided 100% on what I'll do for speedo. I'm thinking a dakoda electric to mechanical so I can use the original dash.
Descided I'll keep a 2pc. Found some really good info.
Any comments on the spiggot bearing?
It may be due to the length of the input shaft on the gearbox.
Having a wider bearing and only pushing it in partway means there's more bearing supporting the end of the input shaft (while still keeping the 10mm in the crank)
1977 RA35 Celica GT - I4 | 2007 GSV40R Aurion - V6
Don't live life being scared of death, live in the fear of not truly living. RP 2012
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