Which motor for the RA23??

[o_man_ra23]

Forced induction allows more midrange torque, which then allows longer gearing and lower highway RPM. In this way, the car will sit more comfortably on the road (it will be a daily driven car, with occasional track use, so primary use will be to and from work, and weekend cruising). High RPM motors have the issue of low RPM stumbling... just ask anyone with a 4AGE how many times they stall it. This isnt much of an issue for me, but as the missus will be a regular driver, and she has displayed annoyance with the low RPM characteristics of my former 18RG, and the old boys' AW11 4AGE, the forced induction will allow (in stockish trim anyways) much smoother takeoff and city driving than a high RPM motor.

Now, if your argument is toward the Beams 3SGE, which is about the only non turbo 3S motor which does not suffer low RPM bogging, this is not a cost effective option at all, and i would be better to play with getting the power to the ground for track use.

Cheers, Owen

[andurils_sheath]

In regards to the 2zz suggestion,

if memory serves the mounting positions for the engine mounts are wack due to its fwd mounting layout therefore making it an expensive option to convert. Keep in mind this is remembering way back so if I'm way off forgive me. Also the inherant cost involved with engine purchase as well as a custom ecu thats capable of running the vvti, because of the linked key to ecu link, the stock ecu is not an option unless the original key, transponder can be found.

3sgte is gunna be the ultimate choice as long as it takes, for smoothness, out of the box reliability and power and weight balance. The initial bitchiness of this conversion will be far outweighed by the advatages of such a setup.

Hope it helps and good luck.

[Hydra]

1G-GTE - best tradeoff for price vs performance, and it'll sound great

[fuzz!]

18r-c for sure..

first off, you can probably find one for free on the side of the road.

second, nothing beats the clackety-clack rhythm of an 18r-shite

third, you can just bolt it in (bolts optional really) and all your hoses/lines will be in the right place.

and finally, the little engine specs sticker underneath your bonnet will still be valid

although don't be so quick to discard the 1uz option... i only say this so you can buy the one i have for sale