Townace 3Y weird stalling problem - High/Low idle circuits

[Ashh]

Alright, still trying to fix this bloody Townace. I replaced the Head/Radiator because the last ones were Fu-bared.

However now it will NOT hold an idle. I first started it up, it idled, touched the accelerator, it reved, all good, came off the accelerator and it immediately started hunting really really badly and then died. From that point on it wouldn't start without the accelerator and wouldn't idle at all. However it will run like a champ if the noise-pedal is depressed.

My guess is that this carb has an anti-dieseling solenoid somewhere and the cable has come off? However I can't find where the cable is...or where the solenoid is. Anyone familiar with these engines? Or have any other theories?

Thanks for all the help
Ash

[Dazza]

The wire for the anti dieseling solenoid should be on the same loom as the auto choke wires. There should be a plug with 3 wires at the top of the carby. 2 wires are for auto choke and the other is for anti dieseling solenoid. You wont get power to the solenoid if the engine fuse is blown or the alternator is faulty.

[Ashh]

Cheers for the reply, just went down and had a fiddle. Couldn't find the dieseling solenoid (I don't think, unless it was one thing that seemed to push a lever to something lower down on the carb that I couldn't see)

However now it idles fine (no idea why), but stalls when its put into Drive or Reverse.

Wtf.

[Ashh]

Couple of theories - Carb idle passageways are blocked.

or Torque converter isn't disengaging.

["Z" UTE]

Check for dislodged vacuum lines or air leak at intake manifold mounting flanges,

A can of start you bastard or ether is invaluable in finding intake vacuum leaks, engine sucks the ether in and the revs change as the ether is burnt, does not get much simpler.

cheers Chuck.

[Dazza]

It could be dirty points in the distributor causing your problems if it has a points type distributor. Some had points type distributors and some were electronic.

[Ashh]

No vacuum leaks and the spark is strong as anything.

We think we've narrowed it down to a dodgy high/low idle controller as I'm under the impression it goes to a higher idle when put into Drive. Does anyone know where/how to diagnose the solenoid or whatever that controls this?

[crownv8]

Had similar problems with Taragos. The gasket between the carby body and throttle plate can split allowing air into the idle ports.

Also, there is a vacuum switch that shuts the ignition down at high vacuum. If the vacuum hose for that is not connected right it can shut the ignition off at idle. It is supposed to shut the ignition of on deceleration to stop back firing. Just pull the wire off it. Don't ask me where it is located because this memory is years old. It is close to the carby mounted to the body of the van.

Cheers,
Shane.

["Z" UTE]

Ashh, any joy sorting this out? Your initial post said you had recently changed the cyl head and radiator. Did you have the idle issue before the head came off, or is it since the reinstallation that the problem has arisen? My memories of 3Y engines stretch back over 20 years when I owned a Liteace, but I do remember there was a ton of anti pollution crap hanging off the intake side of the engine.

A simple mistake of incorrectly connecting a couple of the vacuum lines could cause the problems you are experiencing. Drop into a car dealer selling a 3Y equipped vehicle and take a heap of pictures of the plumbing, then get back to your beast and compare all the connections. The anti dieseling solenoid is located on the carby at the top plate, just make sure you have plugged the correct cable into it.


cheers Chuck.