If you go to the extent and use a torque plate, you should also torque the mains as well.
Normally with the 4a blocks they dont move enough to worry about. Buts its always nice to do it properly for that extra piece of assurance.
Has any forum members had experience using an aluminum torque plate to hone cylinder bores on 4A/7A blocks? If so, do you consider using it as positive. negative, or something that is not needed? Also, if using the torque plate, would "hot honing" increase the concentricity of the cylinder bores as opposed to the regular method of honing? Any experiences are welcome. Thx. racermr2
If you go to the extent and use a torque plate, you should also torque the mains as well.
Normally with the 4a blocks they dont move enough to worry about. Buts its always nice to do it properly for that extra piece of assurance.
1988 Toyota Levin GTZ 10.88 @ 209.57 340kw
Now 9AGTE 410kw atw
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What's the price difference on doing this? Not building a race engine but interested on hearing if this would be worth the price for a more efficient rebuild, especially in relation to the 4A.
Autodub - 1987 AW11 G-Limited, Dark Blue Mica 4AGZE T-Top 4EAT
Definately worth the effort if you are building a good engine . I would fit up all mains caps , engine mounts and bell housing bolts too . We honed close to size with sunnen machine then finished with Brush Reserch Manufacturing ball hones .
We found benefits very quickly and got great results on the engine dyno .
Its a crock of shit unless your building a stupid highly strung engine where you are chasing every and any minor gain or are building something that's shit enough to do all sorts of drama when you bolt the head down.
Put it this way, if your not torquing your ARP bolts with a stretch gauge then dont bother, Toyota never did it in the factory.
Wont make an ants cock of a difference
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