RA23 Electronic Fuel Pump location

[Jadman]

Hi all,

Im in the throws of rebuilding my RA23 and after installing the 18rg from the donor car into my new car yesterday i realised that there was no fuel pump on the block. A bit of investigation and i found this which i assume is a electric fuel pump conversion, it was located under the car near the diff where the fuel lines enter the boot.



My question is, can i mount this on my set up behind the fuel tank? Is there any reason this needs to go under the car? For ease of access and a cleaner look id like to mount this straight behind the tank or in the boot somewhere, but id just like to check with all the toymods gurus before i go about cutting my fuel lines to accommodate.

Thanks very much

[Omegaman]

You have an EFI filter in there on the right.
The centre mount thing, looks like a low volume lift pump. NOT EFI PUMP.
Yes it can be mounted in the boot.

[king-szeitszam]

If it's a low volume (5-6psi) electric unit then it'll be fine for carbs. I ran one on my 2T for a while.
If it's a fuel injected engine you'll need bigger.

All my pumps (scavenge and high pressure) are mounted in the boot. It's not a problem with these low pressure ones, but with high pressure pumps you start thinking about mounting them outside due to the vibrations.

["Z" UTE]

Jadman, it was located outside the the car for a reason. My biggest bitch with converted cars is the fuel vapour in the boot caused by the slight porosity of the rubber fuel hoses leaking vapour into the boot. Put the pump on the rail where you found it and never ever have to worry about being a moving fuel vapour bomb!

[lexsmaz]

Z ute Speaketh the truth, as has been said you can mount it in the car, but unless you run some high quality braided hoses with a nylon insert you will get some fuel smells, so its easier & cheaper to just mount it under the car ..

[Jadman]

thx for all the replies.

I have a 18rgeu so thats probably where the EFI filter came from, but the 18rg is now runnings twin solexes.

Ive now already cut the lines in the boot to make way for this pump so looks like ill be purchasing some of those super expensive nylon insert hoses to finish the job!!

Since im not running the EFI setup do i need the filter anymore??

Also on a completly seperate note, what do i put on that outlet in the middle of the cam cover tht sits between the spark plugs? Is this some kind of ventilation hole or do i need something special on there? I have sen some mini pod filters on there, what is it for?

["Z" UTE]

The small pipe stub in the cam cover is for engine breathing, that is normally connected to the carby filter base plate by a rubber hose. Vapours flow out from the engine so a filter on there is only keeping the air in your engine bay clean!@!

Normally there will be a positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) valve located in that pipe stub, which then connects to the carb base plate.

[Omegaman]

its a good idea to have a fuel filter before the lift pump, doesn't have to be the EFI one.
But grab a new low volume plastic one just to keep fuel clean.

[Jadman]

hmmm.... well tonight i got m wiring sorted and turned the ignition on....

BRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR......

Should have listened, mounting the fuel pump to the body in the boot was a poor choice! Any ideas on how to mount appropriatly to damper the vibration? Or can i purchase a low vibration alternative?

[lexsmaz]

You can get some rubber damper mounts & install them between the pump & the body, they usually have a short 6mm diameter stud either end & a small sandwich rubber block in the middle, best point of call is something like pick a part & walk around & have a look at various cars, sometimes air filters housings or brackets under the bonnet etc use these mounting blocks ...

[king-szeitszam]

I made some offset damper mounts as I found that just one set of grommets didn't do enough.
This is so no vibration is transferred through the screw into the chassis at all. It can be done with a couple small pieces of wood and a little thought.

["Z" UTE]

hmmm.... well tonight i got m wiring sorted and turned the ignition on....

BRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR......

Should have listened, mounting the fuel pump to the body in the boot was a poor choice! Any ideas on how to mount appropriatly to damper the vibration? Or can i purchase a low vibration alternative?

You could always mount it somewhere else a little more solid and with less resonance. Maybe you should look at mounting it on the chassis rail. lol.

cheers

[Jadman]

haha, thanks Z, should have heeded your advice initially.

I have ordered some of those rubber dampeners to cut back the vibration, however, since i now have everything hooked up i thought id try to turn over the engine. No luck though....

Despite a whole heap of noise from the fuel pump resonance, i dont seem to be getting any fuel at the filter/ carbies in the engine bay. I took the filter pipe off and just seem to be getting a couple of small air bubbles through.

Is this a sign that the pump is fnished? What does everyone recommend for priming the fuel lines? how long should it take for the fuel to travel down the line to the carbies from the tank?

Appreciate any help, will certainly listen this time.... lol

[lexsmaz]

Is the pump mounted the correct way, as in inlet / outlet & is it wired up correctly too in polarity ..

To check if the pump is good take off the inlet fuel hose & put the hose in a container with fuel in the container & see how it works then & if still no good, pump is the issue ..

["Z" UTE]

Mate, I tried to bypass the mechanical pump on my old Crown wagon, using one of them thar ticky pumps. Gave it away as a bad joke after trying 2 brand new pumps and not getting any flow to the carby. Turned out there was a very minor fracture in a rubber hose in the fuel system, and the bloody ticky pumps were just sucking air. Managed to finally get fuel to the engine by pressurising the fuel tank and running the pump down near the tank.

That noise almost disappears when you have fuel in the system. If you are feeding a carb with a decent needle and seat the pump will prime and then shut off till the outlet pressure drops, then off she goes again.