URGENT: anyone good with megasquirt? Tried everything

[Ashh]

Hi guys, EFI-ing my TA22 celica.

The megasquirt is just controlling the fuel side of things. I still have a distributor.

When I start it, it runs like a champion for about 20 seconds, then it starts cutting in and out, the fuel relay starts ticking and the computer loses connection with the megasquirt.

At first we thought it was the hall sensor, we did every mod under the sun. Didn't solve the problem, switched to a VR sensor. Exactly the same problem.
We replaced D19 and visually checked C22 (couldn't get a replacement) as per the troubleshooting guide on randomly-dying-megasquirt's. No difference.

HELP! PLEASE!! Supposed to be in QLD right now...in this car.

Basic set up:
- wired to take control of spark through single coil at a later date
- was running a hall sensor, converted to VR,

Update:
tried running it with the fuel pump hardwired. Exactly the same. Noticed something though: the middle LED (which I'm led to believe flashes each time the tach input gets a signal) went off being continuously illuminated (as expected with 36 triggers for every revolution) but when it starts fucking out it starts flashing around twice a second.

So internal timing problem? We changed the entire internal circuit from Hall to VR and (obviously) changed the external sensors and wires as well, only to have the same problem??

UPDATE:
It's a Megasquirt 2
Firmware is 3.3.1a (downloaded through the DIYautotune.com site)
I'm using Tunerstudio
Log is here: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/69963796/Log.msl

We have two tunes, one that we fiddled with quite a bit (CurrentTune1) and one that's pretty much as it's installed with the megasquirt (we did a fresh firmware and project install). Neither worked.

Fiddled with: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...rrentTune1.msq

Mostly Virgin : https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...rrentTune2.msq

[oldcorollas]

battery voltage? losing connection, relay outputs clicking sound slike MS is dying, but put multimeter on the power input to the MS and see what happens when it dies.
or, you could try powering the MS directly from battery via switch, or from external 12V power to avoid any car charging/battery issues

FWIW, I thought the middle LED (18) was WARMUP LED... so it should be on while engine is cold.

LHS LED is injector pulse, and it flashes with the same pulsewidth as one of the injector outputs(iirc)

RHS LED is Accel enrichment.


check your warmup enrichment tables etc, and see if it turns off at a very low temp..
also check your temps are reading right...

[Ashh]

off - 12.8
on - 12.6
cranking - literally cranks for about 0.2 of a second before it fires
running normally - 13.1 - 14.4 -14.5
fucking out - 14.6

it was steadily climbing while running so maybe somethings fucked in the regulator/rectified (whatever controls it to be 12ish) and providing too high a voltage too the megasquirt? What's the allowable voltage?

We're about to try and run it without the alternator connected.

[Ashh]

Well without the regulator it lasted even less time before something started going wrong, failed differently though, usually the middle and right LED start flashing alternately. This time the third LED just came on and stayed on.

[Ashh]

the power for the board comes from a line running directly to the battery (and back, ground is the battery ground). We're going to check the switched ignition line that we hooked into as we don't really know what that's based on.

Thanks for the reply! Will be back with results shortly

UPDATE:
the switched ignition line shows a steady 11.8v while its running fine, and then jumps to 12.8v when it starts messing up. However that thing only has to supply around 5v to make sure that relay stays clamped and supplying power so I don't think it's that.

UPDATE 2: just ran it with the 'switched ignition' running straight off the battery. Still fucks out.

Re- temps: only have an air intake temp (I thought I could hook into the existing coolant temp but I can't). So we just jumpered the coolant socket with a resistor so now it just reads around 60 something degrees

[oldcorollas]

have you run it on a stim to check it works before installing?

firmware version matches what you want it to do?
not using MSnS firmware trying to control the LED's as ignition outputs?

[Ashh]

nah I (studiply) don't have a stim.

I'm pretty sure the firmware matches... I just got it off diyautotune for MS2.

[Ashh]

I did have an electronics expert (we're talking properly expert at everything circuitboard/electrical) have a look at it and he said it was really good (he did touch up one or two iffy soldered joints).

[oldcorollas]

the 5V voltage reg is rated for 26V continuous, and transient to 60V

so.. is the Hall or VR that is feeding the MS, also controlling the ignitor for coil?
or the coil is run by points or separate triggers?

[Ashh]

what is transient/continuous voltage levels? What happens?

Edit: I just meant to say that the megasquirt should still be receiving power because the voltage never dropped low enough.

[oldcorollas]

I dunno.. weirdly flashing LED's are not something I've seen... anything on forums? will have a squiz

[oldcorollas]

http://www.forums.turbobricks.com/sh...ad.php?t=48412

If your megasquirt starts turning the fuel pump relay (or just the fuel pump led) on and off, its in "dead mode", i.e. its got a fault code indicating a configuration error. (be glad it tells you and doesnt just check out, you'll hate the next part tho). Save what you've got msq wise, so you can look at it and get most of your stuff back, but its usefulness as a good configuration has come to an end. the remedy i've found (and there might be a proper fix on msefi, but i think this is the general consensus) is, you get to re-upload the firmware now, and go back and figure out where things went wrong. Also note that this only happens after you've power cycled the megasquirt, so reflashing and loading the old stuff back in will only get you more confused (or irritated).

Common causes:
Having something turned off somewhere, but a subsystem of it on elsewhere.
Example (guess where this one's coming from): turning of ms&s mode and leaving spark output on fidle. CRRASSSSH. If you're not using ms&s and dont have a use for the fidle wire, just leave that **** alone and ignore the extra drop down menu (trust me on this one )

Also, to avoid the road side i fragged my config giant **** in the ass, unhook your injectors (or at least the power to them) before uploading new firmware, it will flood your motor out (again, ask me how i know....)

If ms isnt running your fuel pump relay and you've got the fuel pump led doing something else, another way to tell if you've hosed your **** is by looking in megatune with the key on but not cranking, rpm will read 2, and the fuel pump light will turn on and off.

Reloading a good map at this point wont bring it back. tried that too.
__________________

etc

recheck your config settings, make sure you are not running any ignition stuff in the tuning software etc etc

[Ashh]

I've been having a search around but everyone's seems to 'just work'.

thanks for the help

[oldcorollas]

few more links say "check config"

can you post your msq?

[Ashh]

we just did a reflash and it didn't help.
Thanks though, I obviously didn't try hard enough.

We're going to reflash it, and start a new project in TunerStudio and just see if it runs with a clean slate.