URGENT: anyone good with megasquirt? Tried everything

[oldcorollas]

totally agree with you there
it's a learning experience, not plug and play with deadlines looming

[dumbass]

its for people who want to learn about programming and stuff
ive already got robotic stuff for my 6 year old so he can learn stuff in the next few years
and learn how programming works and what happens when u change little things

[Ashh]

Cheers for the help Oldcorollas. We did a fresh firmware install and then opened a new project with Tunerstudio and it still gave the exact same problems. Surely with the fresh install and everything all config errors would have been erased?

I did buy it from DIYautotune and have emailed them, they basically asked for all the same information asked for here and since I sent them that I haven't heard back from them... Kinda annoying as I know they would have had it for all of their Friday work day.

as for the 36-1 and VR sensor. This exact same toothed wheel and VR sensor were working brilliantly on a mates custom KL-8 engine with an adaptronic ECU so it's definitely not them.


As for dumbass, I never thought it was going to be plug and play, not at all. But I have a lot of time (uni student ftw! love them holidays) and I'm trying to get it working. I also can program. The 'urgent' thing was just because my friends and I wanted to leave for a roadtrip and this car was the only thing holding us back. So not like I-need-to-get-to-work-tomorrow urgent.

I bought megasquirt because it was cheap and it looked like a promising opportunity to learn something. I hate paying people to do interesting things that I'd rather do myself, soldering together a circuit board included. One of the main flaws in my overarching plan is that my mate who's an electrical engineer has been having a really tough time at work and hasn't been able to help as much as I had hoped.

Anyway, yeah if we could keep it constructive and not just try make me look like some stingey idiot who thought this would be a piece of cake that would be great.

[dumbass]

that's cool but u just hear this regularly about the MS
anyway

put a noid light on an injector and put a spark tester on the same cylinder
and also put the return fuel line in a bucket
so then u can maybe find out if your loosing spark or injection or fuel pressure

[Ashh]

injectors work fine though sometimes they keep clicking past when the engine has stopped which I'm pretty sure means something is wrong.

The megasquirt isn't controlling spark so that won't be an issue.

The fuel pump is cutting in and out but that's because the megasquirt is telling it to. Why the megasquirt is doing that is the real problem though (hardwiring the fuel pump to the battery doesn't solve the megasquirt fucking out).

[oldcorollas]

you usually only hear when people have problems, and more often than not, it's their installation not the MS
at least 10's of thousands of good installs around the world


injectors clicking after turning off could be the MS power cycling, and could be the same reason for the fuel pump.

looking at your log,
1. the TPS seems to be negative value most of the time. would be good to recalibrate it.
2, your battery voltage drops to 9V twice before the reset, and it drops to 9V just before the reset

lookin at the engine bit values

Engine is a bunch of bit fields:
Code: Select all
running:equ 0 ; 0 = engine not running 1 = running
crank: equ 1 ; 0 = engine not cranking 1 = engine cranking
ASE: equ 2 ; 0 = not in after start enrichment 1 = in after start enrichment
warmup: equ 3 ; 0 = not in warmup 1 = in warmup
tpsaen: equ 4 ; 0 = not in TPS acceleration mode 1 = TPS acceleration mode
tpsden: equ 5 ; 0 = not in deacceleration mode 1 = in deacceleration mode
mapaen: equ 6 ; 0 = not in MAP acceleration mode 1 = MAP deaceeleration mode
idleOn: equ 7 ;

So if you look at the bits in 3, 9 & 13:
3 = 00000011 = Running + Cranking
9 = 00001001 = Running + Warmup
13 = 00001101 = Running + Warmup + ASE

yours gets 13 for 10 seconds, then 9 for 13 seconds, then shits itself
that it goes between 0, 3 and 13, shows that the ECU us resetting and thinks it has just started again.

the EGO correction also jumps to 132 when it resets.. dunno if that is odd or not

any more logs?


and yeah, better look at your earths (how many pins used on plug, where they go to etc etc) and supply voltage..
does look a bit like the ECU is losing voltage or earth and then resetting.

could be noise from alt perhaps?

http://www.extraefi.co.uk/resets.htm

http://msextra.com/doc/ms2extra/MS2-...al.html#resets

also recheck the soldering in the DB37 plug perhaps?

[Ashh]

That is weird. I don't understand the bits in 3,9 and 13 part. What are those parts referring to?

I can get as many logs as you like

We tested for the voltage thing though, watched the input voltage with a multimeter and it never dropped as low as 9. So I'm not sure why the megasquirt thought that... also ran it with the alternator disconnected to try and rule it out and it still did the exact same problem.

I have also changed the ground from the battery negative to the cylinder head with no change to anything (someone recommended it on another forum).

the DB37 cable and plug between the MS and the relayboard was a bought item from DIYautotune so I wouldn't have thought that was the problem?

What would make the megasquirt get lower voltage readings than what I got on the relay board's power in?

[oldcorollas]

the "engine bit" is an 8bit description of what is happening..

the numerical number is decimal version of the 8bit number
ie http://www.cs.princeton.edu/courses/...cos109/bc.html
type in "1" in decimal, then keep clicking "add 1"

eg, 00000001 = 1 = running, 00001101 = 13 = Running + Warmup + ASE

to get the 8bit "bit", in the list.. "running" is the first digit from the right. if not running, then it will be 00000000, if running, 00000001
running + warmup = 00001001
running + warmup + TPS accel = 00011001

cylinder head ground works if you have a good ground between cylinder head and battery.

still worth pulling the cable, and checking what connects to what, and if there are any shorts.
also checking what ground pins connect to what.

if relay board power in is ok (can you log it fast enough to see momentary changes?), then either something in relay board, cable from relay to MS, or in the MS
could be power conditioning stuff, ie caps and diodes... diodes all in correct direction?
if all components check out, then it could be noise generated by either coil, alt, injectors.. are injector grounds separate from all other grounds, ie the MS ground and sensor grounds?

[Ashh]

Ok, so turns out I'm a complete newbbbbbb
*Puts on flame suit*

upon careful inspection of the board it became apparent that a diode was installed backwards.

Switched it around and now everything appears to be working brilliantly! (We haven't driven it yet). Fingers crossed

Thanks for all the help!

[oldcorollas]

which diode??

and can't be such a newbie if you found it

[Ashh]

D5, the really big one

hahaha why thank you, but I am also the person who installed it backwards. I don't know how I did that because I must have done it at the same time as D7, which was installed correctly. Such an idiot...

It is so satisfying to have it running though!! Thank you for all your patient help Oldcorollas. I posted on 3 different forums and you were the only one to offer consistent advice and help.

[oldcorollas]

no worries mate. had to be something simple pity I didn't actually give you any help to solve the problem

D5 is the "Wing" diode.. named after the dude that first used it..
it reduces tach signal false-triggering for a coil... I forget if needed for hall or VR with the zero crossing detector..

some stuff from MS1 tach inputs
http://www.bgsoflex.com/mstach.html


hall/coil/optical input different from VR
http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/V3assemble.htm#input

ugh I'm so rusty with MS stuff

[Ashh]

Haha oh but you did, for one thing you helped us figure out what it wasn't. Plus your suggestion that it had to be a power problem coupled with our tests that the power TO the megasquirt was fine was what led us to think that we must have messed something up on the board.

I am so out of my depth on the electrical side of things. I think I need to break out my arduino/buy some kits and start with some smaller/simpler stuff and build up to understanding the MS board.

Haha if you think you're rusty...what does that make me?

[knightrous]

Glad to see you solved it Ashh.
So many people run into similar problems and just blame the MS for the problems, when a good portion of the time it's just something as simple as a diode or resistor not installed properly (I missed a 52R resister off my DIYPNP and it caused me a week of pain trying to work out why I wasn't getting a cam signal!).

Just be aware, now that you have it running, you will be come addicted!

[Ashh]

I'm glad other people also make silly mistakes. I was expecting to be flamed for screwing up something so simple.

Haha yeah I can see the addiction. I've got to figure out how to make the acceleration enrich work a bit better because the lowest settings in the tunerstudio make it go way rich when I press the pedal, but with it off it goes way lean. Both cause stumbling. TO YOUTUBE! haha