FZJ105R Landcruiser Turbocharging Advice

[hr31coupe]

Hi guys,

Apologies in advance for the long thread but I wanted to give as much info as possible to get the best advice.

I've been reading through some threads on here in regards to turbocharging the 1FZFE motor found in the 80 & 100 series landcruiser but I have some questions specific to my situation that I do not have answers for.

I currently have a Falcon XR6 Turbo that I got for a great price sitting in my shed that I am intending on fitting to my 105 series landcruiser.

The cruiser currently has a mixer ring style LPG system on it which will not be staying once the turbo system is fitted.

I am currently deciding between 2 different exhaust manifolds. Those being a merge collector style one from 6boost to get better response and the other being a 2 piece cast unit with expansion joint from turboglide. I like the idea of the 6 boost manifold to get the turbo going earlier but am worried as there seems to be issues with one piece turbo manifolds cracking on these motors as they are so long (multiple cases of this on IH8MUD forums - not the 6boost manifolds though).

Both manifolds are similar price so that is not an issue.

Turboglide manifold can be seen here - http://www.turboglide.com.au/sites/d...s/100_3826.JPG

Second issue is whether or not the stock internal wastegate will be up to the task. I have a similar sized turbo (GT35R) on my skyline with a 6boost manifold that was originally internally gated but had to swap to external as it could not bleed off enough gas and boost was impossible to control (kept climbing past 20psi)

I have also picked up a second hand factory XR6 Turbo intercooler which I was planning to use. I'm assuming this should be up to the task. I am aiming for a reliable 200-250rwkw with heaps of torque for towing.

A mate of mine is good mates with a fabricator who I will more than likely get to do all the intercooler and exhaust pipework.

Oil feed for turbo can apparently be picked up from where the oil pressure sender comes out of the block right under the manifold by installing a T piece and then a drain gets tapped back into the sump cover.

Coolant lines should be able to be tapped in somewhere along the lines pretty easily.

I have sussed out some 600cc injectors from www.efihardware.com which I'm hoping should be big enough. Otherwise the next easiest obtainable items are some 1000cc Injector Dynamics units but am a little bit worried about idle control with such large injectors. (again, had similar issues getting my skyline to idle with 1000cc items. Ended up downsizing to 630cc items)

Going to upgrade the factory fuel pump to a bosch motorsports 040.

I have spoken to a local tuner who recommended an Adaptronic aftermarket computer (best bang for buck) to control everything including boost control so that the factory computer can be turfed. (car is manual so ECU supposedly only does engine)

Might investigate another guy I know through the skyline club that has had great success tuning Megasquirt ECU's to see what he can do.

According to a thread on IH8MUD, the map sensor on the 1FZFE cannot read positive pressure and needs to be swapped with an identical looking unit from a Supra which obviously can. Thread doesn't say which model though.

Apparently 1UZFE coilpacks will fit this motor which makes it a bit easier as the stock setup consists of 3 coilpacks mounted on the front of the motor that do 2 cylinders each.

I also read on one of the threads here that valve springs should be upgraded. Is this necessary for the power levels I am aiming for?



Now this is where I really need some advice. I am looking to do this in stages due to money but I don't know if it will work the way I am planning it.


Stage 1

Fit manifold, turbo, intercooler and exhaust. Have wastegate flap permanently open to limit boost to practically nothing so that hopefully the ECU doesn't crap itself. - Expecting approx $1000 for exhaust, $600 for IC Piping and $1300-1500 for manifold.


Stage 2

Install and tune aftermarket ECU up to safe capability of stock injectors. - Got quoted $2000 for ECU, $1000 for wiring it in and another $1000 for the tuning. Haven't enquired about the Megasquirt yet.


Stage 3

Fit larger injectors and bigger fuel pump then re-tune to reliable 200-250rwkw. - Have been quoted $130ea for the 600cc injectors or $800 for the 1000cc items, Bosch 040 pump $210 + installation and re-tune


Stage 4 (if money permits)

Fit injected vapour LPG system but I have been quoted around $6K for this so not sure if it is worth it. I asked the tuner about the vapour injection systems as I had read there was a power limit with them. He said he has fitted the EMAR systems on XR6 Turbos and had no issues and that is running solely on LPG and not switching back to or adding petrol at high rpms as other systems do.



I would greatly appreciate any advice, info or feedback which will help me to plan this project more thoroughly as I want to minimize downtime of the car as it is my daily driver.

Cheers,

Allen...

[cresslux]

for stage 1, i would get it all fitted up, all piping made, them remove it all and put stock parts back on so then it will be ready to go when you need it. i say this because stock N/A ecu's that use map sensors tend to have a metal if you turbo them. if you had the older 80 series 1fz you would have got away with it as they use the infamous flap style air flow meter.

once you have all the parts you could easily have it done and running again within a weekend.

when you get to stage 2 then put your already fabbed turbo setup and piping on at the same time as the new ecu.

also with the manifold, as awesome as the 6boost's are (i have one on my 1jz) i would go the cast manifold. its a 4wd and is going to see some harsh conditions (one would hope) and i honestly thing the cast manifold would tolerate more abuse.

just my 2 cents, good luck with your project!

[playwme]

I remember reading an article back when the 80 series was current about an Australian workshop turbocharging these things for the Arabs to use in the desert. They were getting some pretty serious power out of them and quick quarter mile times.

I would have been in Wheels or Motor magazine. Probably still have it somewhere out at the farm.

[boxh34d]

There is a guy on here who has one in a crown (MS-75), and came across the valve spring issue - but that was at nearly 350ish kw and 20psi from memory. Plenty of people have put blowers on them with moderate boost and never had valve spring issues.

Personally, I really don't like the 2 piece cast manifolds. I've seen a couple now that were pretty ordinary in the joint fitting, but maybe that was just luck. I'm sure 6 boost could weld on a couple of additional braces if you were really worried about flex and cracking.
Otherwise, there is quite a few mobs around that do manifolds for them - 4x4 systems, AXT etc, though I haven't looked if there design is any different. Maybe do some ringing around and see if any take your fancy.
Treadstone in the states do a 1 piece cast unit too, with a flange for a 35 or 38mm external gate. NFI whether they will fit in a RHD vehicle though, but being a close coupled cast, you would assume so.

The stock primary collectors aren't a half bad design really, have you thought about making a Y pipe, and then you have the option of internal or external gate as well as being quite cheap.

I agree with cresslux too, to merge stages 1 and 2 together. I think stage 1 is just asking for trouble. FWIW, your ECU and wiring prices seem extremely pricey, it might change your timing if you shop around? I like the adaptronic though, I have one and love it - especially the integrated boost control.

FWIW, a mate of my tuner put a GT35 on his 200 series with the 4.7 V8. Really crappy manifold design, but makes its 8psi full boost by about 1800 rpm. It just feels like a big capacity engine, with no real turbo lag or step in power delivery. It now uses about 4L/100kms less fuel when he is towing the 6m boat too, so he is stoked. Not a 1FZ I know, but the GT35 works really well in this kind of application.

[cresslux]

i think a GT3582R with a 1.04 a/r would get some nice smooth power delivery, and correct me if im wrong someone, but they are the stock turbo from a BA/BF xr6 turbo, so they are cheap AND internally gated which is fine if you are running under 15psi.

[hr31coupe]

Thanks for the replies so far guys. It certainly does make sense to do stage 1 & 2 at the same time.

The guy that I got the quote for the ECU supply / install / tune from is known for being a bit more expensive than the rest but he is reasonably close to me, has a 4wd dyno and does good work.

I'm still yet to enquire with other places so will see what the differences in price are.

As for the manifold. I think you'll find that AXT etc. all use the Turboglide 2 piece cast manifold. I have looked at the Treadstone item, and while I can get it for about $800 landed they are the exact ones that heaps of the guys on IH8MUD have cracking issues with so I will be sticking well clear of them.

I have extractors on mine now so don't have standard manifolds but I imagine they wouldn't be too expensive to get a hold of. Will investigate that option a bit further.

The aim with this is to have nice smooth power delivery with heaps of torque. Everywhere I read, the GT35 seems to be the perfect option for this size of motor if you are not trying for huge numbers.

Cresslux - The unit I have for my landcruiser is a Ford item, even has the ford logo stamped in the exhaust housing. They are pretty much the same as a GT35. I have one one my skyline but externally gated with the .86 rear housing and the power delivery on that is aggressive to say the least. On the cruiser motor though it should be a lot more matched and smoother.

[slipway]

late 80 series also had a maf, you cant just put a turbo map sensor on an na ecu as the run the same scale.
i agree with the y pipe idea also, currently doing one for my car.
with the power limit of lpg injectors. the adaptronic 1280 can run staged injectors so might be able to run lpg as mains and when there getting to the limit have the id1000,s come on.
http://performanceforums.com/forums/...E-Turbo-advice

[cresslux]

yeah you can change the rear housing to whatever you want. thats why i love garrett turbos.