if it is an ignition signal issue then you can just replace the switch at the back of the barrel which unscrews. A worn barrel will not affect the ignition signal if you can turn the key easily.
Hey guys,
Just got my car back from the shop- was told when I got the keys handed back to me that the ignition barrel is on it's last legs and has gone a bit dodgy.
I forget the terminology that was used so forgive my humble attempt at trying to explain the issue here- but I have no doubt that others have tackled this problem before me so if someone could link me to a solution or point me in the right direction on the forums, that'd be great. Unfortunately I was more concerned with starting my car for the first time in months than listening to what the guy was saying.
From what I gather the barrel/whatever has worn out and unless the key is jiggled *just* right, it doesn't make 'contact' correctly and I get a god awful screech from the starter and of course, no ignition. Again, I don't know what the technical term is, but hopefully someone knows what I'm on about.
I was told it's essentially an issue caused by wear and tear- that when the key is turned, the whatchamacallit doesn't play nice with the thingamajig and therefore doesn't send the ignition signal correctly. I'm assuming it has something to do with the tumblers inside and the fact that when the key is turned they're not being pushed into place as they should.
So is the only solution to have the barrel re-keyed ($$) or has someone figured another way to fix this sort of problem? As this seems to be an issue caused by wear and tear I'm hoping that it's common and therefore someone's managed to think up a backyard solution of some kind.
I could of course buy another barrel and key set but for obvious reasons I'd like to explore other options first.
Cheers,
Frank
The Smurf: A 1972 TA22 with a 2TGEU, individual throttle bodies and a bad attitude.
if it is an ignition signal issue then you can just replace the switch at the back of the barrel which unscrews. A worn barrel will not affect the ignition signal if you can turn the key easily.
A good blast of WD40 down the barrel will sometime give a tired unit an extra lease of life. So long as the key turns Ok, the rest is electrics. The screetching noise you describe sounds rather like a faulty solonoid on the starter.
Awesome guys, really appreciate your replies.
Any idea where I might find the switch you mentioned stidnam?
I'll give the WD40 a crack, can't hurt anyway. But if that fails I'll need to replace this switch ASAP.
The Smurf: A 1972 TA22 with a 2TGEU, individual throttle bodies and a bad attitude.
You have to remove the upper and lower plastic covers on the steering column to gain access to the ignition switch. The switch should be located at the non keyhole end of the ignition barrel.
"What man can build, man can fix!"
MS51Crown Coupe,
GSV40R Aurion luxo tourer. One TA22 currently receiving some TLC prior to paint One RS56 Crown ute under construction, 2 x TA22's awaiting rebuilds. Toyota Crown RS47J ute in need of serious TLC. Toyota Crown Custom Wagon MS53 daily hauler stocko!
The Smurf: A 1972 TA22 with a 2TGEU, individual throttle bodies and a bad attitude.
Well the WD40 plan was a nice idea but it looks as if the issues run deeper than that. Will have to address this switch problem by the looks of things, source a new one and replace it.
The Smurf: A 1972 TA22 with a 2TGEU, individual throttle bodies and a bad attitude.
If the ignition barrel is your issue, then you can buy new ones from the USA, and you can get the switch too.
You might be able to source them locally, but I haven't seen them (nor have I looked)
switch is metioned here - http://toyheadauto.com/Celica_Parts_...html#Interior_
ignition barrel comes as part of the key set mentioned here - http://toyheadauto.com/Celica_Parts_...terior__Body:_
i cant say enough good things about toyheadauto!
I have already replaced the key part of the ignition. Unless something bad has happened since it should still be like new. The easiest solution is to just remove the start function from the keyed ignition and just install a hidden start button. Or you can buy a new switch. It's your car so your choice.
Looking for a new toy. If you have something 18r powered let me know.
RIP, where ever you are :- 1974 celica, 3tgte and 186.5hp at 6500rpm
Thanks for that mate- I must have missed that when I skimmed through his site earlier.
Wow- didn't realise how pricey these switches are, it'll be $100 by the time I get it to my door.
I'm going to go out on a limb and say that the issue is the switch. The sound it makes when it fails to start is the same sound that you get if you accidentally turn the key when the engines already running- that sort of grindy/screechy noise.
I guess I could just play it safe and get a whole new barrel, my barrel is shot to pieces anyway.
The Smurf: A 1972 TA22 with a 2TGEU, individual throttle bodies and a bad attitude.
For the sake of cost of shipping, which is really the cost killer, I would be buying both.
Nothing like putting new parts in your car. Small price to pay for reliability and peace of mind.
Sorry crash didn't see your reply.
If that's the case then i may just get the switch looked at- I thought it was strange that the barrel might be the issue as it looks pretty fresh.
I'll look into removing the start function, I guess what I decide on doing will depend on how much a new switch actually costs- if they're available anywhere other than toyhead.
Silver- you raise a good point- couldn't hurt to have a spare barrel for the future, and I'd like to bundle as much as I can into that postage package. I'll probably be paying the same money for shipping if I buy one or two things, so I might as well get both.
The Smurf: A 1972 TA22 with a 2TGEU, individual throttle bodies and a bad attitude.
If thy noise is the problem it won't be your switch. The fact the starter tries means the switch is working. It means your starter motor isn't engaging properly. Possibly worn teeth.
Looking for a new toy. If you have something 18r powered let me know.
RIP, where ever you are :- 1974 celica, 3tgte and 186.5hp at 6500rpm
I've been given bad information then, I was told that the starter motor had been rebuilt which is why I ruled out that as a possible cause. I hadn't thought about it the way you've just put it, but now you mention it it's obviously sending a signal if it's trying to start.
Interestingly it's not a consistent problem, sometimes if i'm nimble enough with my key-jiggling it'll start first turn, other times I'm sitting there for 5 minutes listening to it screech away.
The Smurf: A 1972 TA22 with a 2TGEU, individual throttle bodies and a bad attitude.
Starter solenoid? Based on the sound you are describing worn/missing teeth on starter or flywheel is a likley suspect. Starter not throwing out the starter cog correctly maybe a cause.
FYI the Toyheadauto ignition barrels are aftermarket so are probably that same as the Thailand ebay ones.
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