3TC Sump Gasket Install

[brucey]

I've replaced the sump gasket on my 3TC. But it seems the gasket is pushing out the sides more than normal:







The gasket is a cork type that I got from Repco (Payen JH041). I tightened the sump bolts to 4 ft-lb, specified in the " T series engine repair manual". I applied Permatex Form-A-Gasket No. 2 Sealant to both sides of the gasket. I used this sealant since it was recommended for sump pan gaskets, and I didn't want to use a silicon type sealant in case pieces could fall into the sump and block the oil pickup.

It seems the bolts are done up too tight. My 1/2" drive Kincrome torque wrench has an advertised torque range starting at 10 ft-lb, but I can set it lower. Though the accuracy could have a bit of uncertainty. Perhaps the sealant caused the gasket to slip between the surfaces? The manual only suggests to apply sealer to the corners of the engine block

The old gasket didn't push out the sides as much, and I noticed a thin bead of silicon sealant was applied between the gasket and the engine block; that worked well with no leaks. I'm thinking the new sump gasket will leak. Specially around the sump bolts, since the gasket holes could stretch or tear.


Does anyone have any suggestions? Leave it as it is or be safe and replace it?
Thinking of replacing it while I have the gearbox off, since it's a real pain replacing the gasket while the engine is in the car.

[Silly Rabbit]

Leave it. I have done the sump gasket a couple of times with my 3T and yes they do squish out at the sides bit. I also used a bead of silicone between the sump and the gasket just to be sure but if I were you I would just run it and see how you go.

I have never actually changed a gasket when the motor was out, only in situ so yes it can be done. Undo the passenger side mount, jack up that side of the engine, undo sump bolts and then carefully manouver the sump past the oil pickup and job done. The fact that I have done it a couple of times means it took me maybe 20-30 mins to do the whole job.

[Dan_k36]

That's normal looking at the 3t on the stand it has done the same, im not worrierd tho,

I used silicon on the whole thing not just the coroners that it said to do,

[J-M kujala]

That's normal looking at the 3t on the stand it has done the same, im not worrierd tho,

I used silicon on the whole thing not just the coroners that it said to do,

dont care, it works !! do something if it leaks !!

same looking as mine... Before


But when i stop use sealant glue with gasket,(exept corners) it wont do that anymore, it stays nicely and straight between pan and block... but then everything is needed to be exetremely clean at greese & oil.


Also depends at oil pan, how much oil pan around screw holes are bended "in" . i have straighten some oil pans, What i have been installed.

[brucey]

OK, thanks for the replies guys. I'll leave it and see how it goes. Just got a bit worried that I might of done something wrong. The 2tgeu I have doesn't squish out as far, and also the 3tgte but that gasket is rubber. I can remember I installed the timing cover on the 3tc not long ago and I tighten the bottom sump bolts 4-5 ft-lb and the gasket didn't squish much. So maybe the new gasket is a softer cork material.