5mm shit man thats heaps i wouldnt take 0.5 -1 mm off
DISCLAIMER :: I know if I want power I shouldn't be mucking aorund with a 4AGZE, this is for my interest and please pretend money is no object (it really is, but just pretend!!!).
Hi,
I found a place that sell custom rods - costs a bit more than standard aftermarket rods.
I got to thinking about stroking the 4AGZE for a bit more capacity to an 82mm stroke (and 82mm bore with 40 thou pistons). 5mm would have to be ground off the crank (is this possible?) to get +/-2.5 mm more stroke (5 total). This would give 1732cc (up from 1587cc) and still a reasonable bore/stroke, but I calculated the rod/stroke ratio would be even smaller at Rod/Str = 1.46 (stock = 1.58 I calced). And I read that ratios outside 1.6 - 1.8 were not good design. Would 5mm off the 42 journals on the ZE crank be too much?
Just looking for comments, since HK$ had a 1.8L kit for the 4AG(Z)E once.
Cheers, Nick
== 4AGZE SC14 Supercharged ==
Now flogg'n the SC14 @ 18psi....
5mm shit man thats heaps i wouldnt take 0.5 -1 mm off
i dont have a funny or cool signature.
easier would be to take a 7A block and crank... and get some custom rods for that to match up to either some custom made forgies or the stock smallport 4A-GZE pistons.
saves the effort of fudging up a perfectly good 4a crank - and gives you closer to 1800cc
...... butt scratcher?!
Based on the feeling behind those comments it sounds as if the HKS setup would have been a custom crank then, rather than a machined stock crank?
== 4AGZE SC14 Supercharged ==
Now flogg'n the SC14 @ 18psi....
Originally Posted by nick.parker
you mean either ARGO or PRI, they both do custom rods! and it isnt worth the money to stroke them, better of doing a 7afe with custom rod and piston, you can get right up to 2 litre then.
Hi,
Thanks for the opinions. But why is it worth stroking the 7A and not the 4A? Obviously a bigger motor is more power (and more power in the form of more drivability = goood). But then a 4AGZE already bolts straight into my car and a 7A doesn't (I dont think anyway).
Cheers, Nick
== 4AGZE SC14 Supercharged ==
Now flogg'n the SC14 @ 18psi....
yes it will bolt in and the reason its not a good idea is the cost for the gain!
I think you'll find that the 7A is almost a straight bolt in, I did a fair bit of looking into it. The custom bit is mating a decent head to the 7A block. That being said, the stock 7A crank sucks, as do the stock rods...etc. So it'd be a pretty custom motor to do a good job of it...But the basic bolt patterns and stuff are pretty similar. On the same note, what's a 5A?
RM.
5A-FE - 1.5 L (1498 cc) I4, 16-valve DOHC, FI, 100 hp (75 kW)Originally Posted by mullett
Heres some more A series info
- LeeRoy
Daily Driver: Red Ae93 Project: My TA22 - now with 3s-gteD is for Disco, E is for Dancing
I think the 4AGE head bolts on. I know people have done this conversion.The custom bit is mating a decent head to the 7A block
I guess the crank is trouble waiting to happen, doesn't it have 6 bolts instead of the 4AGZE's eight?
== 4AGZE SC14 Supercharged ==
Now flogg'n the SC14 @ 18psi....
both the 20v and the 16v bolt on.
if the engine is built properly the crank is fine. there is a bit of R&D going on now to take the crank down even more to see if it will take it.
regarding the 7A or the 4A crank Mick??Originally Posted by kingmick
the 7a crank! the engine will be testing very soon to see if it can handle it, if not it will have to be a custom crank.
But, if you didnt want to go to the lengths of offset grinding (or whatever you call it) the crank to provide a longer a stroke, the straight bolt-in of a 7A crank along with some decent H-beam rods and forged slugs would make a decent little 1.8L A-series engine.
The thing what makes a 7A p00 is it's rods. Go past 6000rpm much and watch them cave in faster than Johnny Howard to George W.
...... butt scratcher?!
Damn!
Thats fast alright. Ok I'll think I'll try and find the specs of 7A crank!
Nick.
== 4AGZE SC14 Supercharged ==
Now flogg'n the SC14 @ 18psi....
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