Do you have a constant power to the ECU when cranking?
Trying to get this fucking KE70 going but I cant get the motor to fire, its a CA18DET.
I've done the required wiring (I'm pretty sure, looks simple enough) but I'm not getting any spark or fuel. The most I've gotten, I'll crank it, let off the key and get an ants cock tiny arse spark and a single injector click.
Normally I would assume something is rooted or I've fucked up something good and proper but if I remove the CAS and spin it by hand I get spark and I can hear the injectors cycle.
Any pointers?
Also there is a start signal wire on the ECU, needed or can I splice it to 12v?
Do you have a constant power to the ECU when cranking?
SR20DET TA23
Yeap, CAS drive is good too
Calling it a day, got no fuel.
Rail has pressure, injectors are clicking but plugs are bone dry and I dont get anything when cranking the motor with the plugs out.
Will pull them this week and see if they are fucked, have been sitting for 4 odd years.
Failing that, piss of this hacked shitty loom and start fresh.
Stupid question, is the cam belt intact?
The cas locator in the cam snapped off? Seen that a few times.
Bagged Gs430 Daily
Ra23 Cruiser
Cams are turning, its got a timing belt and the CAS locator is still there.
The fact I cant get any fuel is the biggest problem, if I can turn the CAS and hear the solenoids clicking along with getting some sort of spark then the ECU should still be alright (dunno what its doing fuel wise) along with the wiring.
I'll send the injectors off to get looked at and go from there, if they turn out to be alright I'll buy a S13 engine loom and ECU and not hack the shit out of it.
If the only time you are getting a spark & only a small spark is when you come off the key, are you getting a voltage drop when cranking ?? & have you got the full 12 volts at the ECU when cranking & in the run position too & are all the earths good ??
Is the battery good too in strength ..
old cars have ign wire and 2 start wires on the ignition switch
the second start wire used to goto coil and is normally called ballast resistor bypass
if u have only wired up 4 or 5 wires with no relays like most forums guys
just put all powers to battery positive and see if it starts then once it starts u can stop stressing and redo it properly with relays and fuses
also try spraying flammable liquid down throttlebody to see if it starts and if it does then u know its fuel related
so u either have fuel lines back to front or u have blocked injectors (very common on jap motors that have sat for awhile)
nissans are the easiest motors to wire up so y are u streesing i can wire them in 5 minutes if u put all powers to battery hahahahaah
try trigger each injector yourself of the battery and listen for clicking noise
if u need an ecu i might have one for 30 bucks
Yeah wiring is dodgy atm, I need to see if the motor runs before I continue as its history is dubious (it bent a valve before we got it, seller agreed to repair it before we picked it up, never been run).
Went to bed last night after many beers and worked it out and its due to dickhead no1 (aka me)
Radio cuts out when you crank........ I've got all powers switched acc
Started first hit of the key
Dont I feel like a knob
at least you worked it out![]()
"I'm a Teaspoon, not a mechanic"
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with old cars 50 % of them won't start
cause people don't hook up the ballast resistor
bypass wire
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