Longer idler + pitman arms on ke20 - what can i use?

[Bananaman]

Morning,

So i finally adjusted my castor on my KE20 to stop the wheels scrubbing on the rear of my guards, and i still can't make full lock - my steering disagrees with the bellhousing on one side and the slave on the other.





I don't really want to convert to a rack just yet.. and nor do i want to move the engine position. Was wondering what else I could do, figured that longer idler / pitman arms would work. The only consequences i can think of are less turns lock to lock, and i assume firmer steering. Does anyone know if these are interchangeable with other models of same vintage? Or know of a good catalogue?

Here is what they look like (new ones i have spare):


Measurements:
~112mm centre to centre. 20mm thick. Splined section has 38 teeth and ~24mm ID.



Measurements:
~114mm centre to centre (probably the same as above i guess? But my crappy measuring skillz). 32mm thick. Rod on bracket end is ~15mm

Ideas?

Thanks
Bardin

[oldcorollas]

KE20 bits can be used in KE10's, but KE10 is shorter.
KE30 is longer than KE20, but i'm not sure on compatability, but worth a shot.

will change your ackermann angles a bit, maybe not enough to worry?

[parrot]

Possibly helpful. remember seeing this when it was first posted.

Quicker Steering On Ke'S - KExx Corolla Discussion - rollaclub.com - Page 2

[Bananaman]

Thanks guys. That thread seems to say KE30 is no deal, but it seems he never posted what he came up with.. I've sent pm.

[oldcorollas]

thought about moving crush tubes a cm or so forward, so you can move arms forwards on chassis? would sink steering wheel in a bit, but save looking for arms

coudl also move them up or down to alter steering geometry a bit

[Bananaman]

To be honest if i'm going to that amount of trouble, i'd be looking to switch to a rack instead. I will only go to so much trouble to keep the standard steering - I figured if I could stick longer arms in for now that would fit the bill, but i'd draw the line beyond that.

["Z" UTE]

Gotta ask, why not move the engine back a bit? Unless you are experiencing massive fouling problems in the tunnel and at the firewall. Is your shifter going to be in the wrong spot, adjust the shifter with mr BOC, flame. Dump pipe going to cause problems, bite the bullit and get a new one fabbed. Best to get the engine as far back as possible to get some weight off the front axles, just my 2cents worth.

[Bananaman]

It already is as far back as it can be without modifying the firewall from memory, not just for weight but so that the swaybar would clear.



Even if you assume i could get 10mm out of it (maybe not impossible, i'd have to check), that is a lot of time and money I would sooner put to converting to a rack..

["Z" UTE]

Not being over familiar with the old Corolla's, been way too long since I owned my KE10. Looking at the pics you have there, it looks like the steering stops are situated on the crossmember and the drang link has the other "stop", could you add cushioning rubber to the stops and just live with a larger turning circle. It will only ever affect your parking in tight spaces, 4 point turn instead of a 3 pointer.

cheers Chuck.

[Bananaman]

Yes - the stops on the xmember have threads so you can put a bolt in to adjust turning circle, it remains to be seen just how bad that would make it. It'd probably increase the number of spins i have on the track too (or give me an excuse )

["Z" UTE]

Steer with the throttle man, you should have more than enough power to promote a goodly amount of oversteer.