Problems with 4AGZE.

[MR_GZE]

Hey all... I would appreciate any help. I have been searching all different forums for day and have been unable to find a solution.

I have a 4AGZE in an AE102 which I had not driven for 6 years. It had just been sitting in the driveway all that time as I had moved interstate and left it at my mothers house.

Recently I got it up and running again and drove it from Sydney to Gold Coast and it ran extremely well up until Kempsey where it started to almost cut out to virtually no power for a split second then cut back in and would be fine again.
I stopped at Kempsey and gave the engine a look over to see if I could notice anything but not being extremely knowledgeable, I just tend to look for anything that looks out of the ordinary to myself and found nothing.

So I continued on from Kempsey and got home without another issue until 2 days later when the car went into limp mode. I tried pulling codes but got nothing so I left the car in the garage to search some possible problems when I heard a noise come from the Garage and upon inspection I found some sort of heat shield had fallen from the car but could not find for the life of me where it came from. (Links to piece that fell off below)

Long story short, car is still in limp mode and running extremely rough compared to when it first went into limp mode. It is running very rich as it is spitting unburnt fuel out the exhaust.

Any suggestions??


http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index...tach_id=104037
http://www.rollaclub.com/board/uploa...6988_thumb.jpg

[MR_GZE]

Anyone got anything??

[worldwalker]

Is the CEL on but no codes?

[MR_GZE]

Yes the Check Engine is on but no codes.

[MR_GZE]

Sorry should have given a little more info.
The check engine light is on and I have not been able to raise any codes.
I have tried resetting the ecu, to no avail, still no codes and does not seem to reset.

Its my belief that the ecu may be damaged but is there anything that could cause an ecu to fry??

Maybe a sensor or an earthed out wire??

Also how would I tell if this is the broblem??

[worldwalker]

Bear in mind I'm no expert as I'm doing all this by trial and error myself, but until someone else helps I can only give you my best guess. I've got my own ECU issues, as you might have read in my thread, but I've got no codes and no CEL. If the CEL is on, its because either a sensor is unplugged or something is not correct (sensor wise). My understanding (limited) is that if its on, it's holding a code for whats unplugged or failed. I know its a dumb question, but are you bridging the E1/T terminals to check the codes?

As for limp mode, from what I've been playing with the sensors that will do what you're describing are knock, AFM (MAP in your case I believe) and TPS. I don't know a lot about the AE102 either so not sure what else could cause it but those would be top of my list.

Apparently the ECU's (components) do die from time to time. All I've found and been told is to look for burnt out caps inside, Other than the obvious I wouldn't know where to start if its not visual.

[MR_GZE]

Thank you for the reply, I agree with you on the code thing however, bridging the terminals is not raising a code for me unfortunately.
I think i am going to have to try and find a workshop manual for a MAP GZE, as I dont really know too much about the sensors. I have looked all round the motor for any unplugged wires etc but have been unable to find any.
Given that it is not giving me any codes, Im guessing it is an ecu problem.

[JDM hachi]

If you cant pull any codes when the check engine light is on, and you are correctly bridging the terminals in the diagnostic plug under the bonnet, then there is a possibility that the diagnostic plug has not been wired to the ecu, earth the t terminal at the ecu, then see if it will display codes, all terminals are labeled in the ecu, pull off the cover to find which pin is the t terminal.

matty.

[MR_GZE]

Thank you both for your help so far, I have given you both rep.

Jdm I tried your suggestion but unfortunately, still no codes.

Im guessing I do have to check the sensors but what is the best way and where are they all located??

[jondee86]

Have you checked that the MAP sensor vacuum hose has not split or fallen off ?

Cheers... jondee86

[MR_GZE]

Had a look today and vacuum hose seems ok but I will have a look again tomorrow in better light.

If any of you could look at the pictures linked up the top also and identify where that particular heat shield comes from that would be alot of help also.

Cheers

P.S Jondee86 I threw you some rep....Thanks for your help!!

[George]

Jdm I tried your suggestion but unfortunately, still no codes

Can you give more details here? Have you been able to locate a pin labeled T or TE1 or TE2? Could you see any signs of dirt/oxidation/leaky caps inside ECU?

Good if you find some time to check voltages at particular ECU terminals when the engine is running. The goal is to make sure there's no major voltage drop in power lines. I would say power lines are ok if you can see +11v or more at +b, +b1, batt, igsw terminals (your ECU may not have some of them), and nothing more than 0.1v between battery (-) terminal and E1 pin of the ECU (this pin as well as +B is also available in diagnostic plug)

In general, it's good to start with the most obvious and easy things like fuel pressure, timing, spark at all plugs, intake manifold pressure at idle. If the problem's not there I would check voltages at the very basic sensors like water temp, maf and map

[dumbass]

ive had some 4a ecus play up and the check light just stays on
when u bridge te1 and e1 and mostof the time it was faulty ecu
pull covers of your ecu and check for bad capacitors

where bouts in qld are you
i have amobile auto elect service if u want to pay someone to look at it if u dont get anywhere

[TERRA Operative]

I'm in QLD, and can swap out your capacitors for you for a very reasonable price. Let me know if you find them to be leaking and we can work something out.

[MR_GZE]

Ok guys update..... I bought an old Ae92 map ECU and made litttle bridging plug so that I didnt have to mess up the ecu or the original loom and Im glad to say that the error is no longer there and the car is going.

However, it seems that it is running smoother than it used to but a very significant drop in power.
It is idling around 1100 to 1200 rpm also.
I am going to try putting a new sc belt on because I do hear it slipping around 4500rpm but it did this prior to the computer problem and it still seemed to have much more power.

Any suggestions??

TERRA Operative, I am on the Gold coast, where abouts are you?? I may get you to have a look at the ecu which died. I did endup changing 2 burnt out resistors which I found and 2 caps which looked dodgey but my soldering techniques are questionable and may be the reason why the computer still did not work after I changed the parts :/