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Thread: ITB conversion on a FWD or AW11 4AGE 16v

  1. #1
    Junior Member Too Much Toyota dnegative's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009

    Default ITB conversion on a FWD or AW11 4AGE 16v

    I've recently fitted a set of silvertop individual throttle bodies to my bigport 4AGE using a T3 (technotoytuning) adapter and seeing as there is fuck all information out there on the process thought I might as well make a thread than can be seen by google and what not

    First things first;
    The T3 adapter doesn't fit a FWD engine as it and the vacuum barbs hits the water outlet hardline
    Naturally T3 dont mention this even if you ask;
    Yes, these will work just fine on a AW11. There might be one hardline you have to bend a little bit, but I think that might be on the AE92, not the AW11.
    Anyway, its not a major problem to work around but its not the only problem you will face. Lets move onto the install;

    1. Rip off all the intake shit, hoses, lines and everything connected to the intake on the manifold. Toss it behind you and get more spanners
    2. Pull the fuel and return line off, move them out of the way
    3. Unplug the TPS, cold start, unbolt the earth and P clamp for the harness along with anything else connected to it. Take out the vac barb for the booster hose
    4. Move the harness ontop of the fuel rail so its kinda out of the way
    5. Remove the intake manifold, there will be two nuts on the outer ends, top side and the rest will be bolts.
    Its not hard to remove if you have a 3/8 socket set, few bolts may be tight but that's life. There is also the TVIS plate that has to come off. Your re-using the old gasket so don't fuck it.
    6. Go to test fit your newly assembled T3 + ITB setup (cap all the nipples, remove the idle bracket thing), yeah barbs hit the hardline and what not. fucksalt
    So rip the hardline off along with the water outlet, drain the coolant down the closest gutter and soldier on old chap. Test fit the whole shbang again and it should all line up perfectly. If it wont go on, you have left the two sorta roll pin line studs in the head. Pull them out with pliers.
    7. Water outlet modification time;

    Your going to need:
    20mm tap
    3/8bsp tap
    15mm drill
    20mm bolt to suit your tap
    3/8 hose tail barb
    thread tape / high temp rtv / loctite

    Bang your 20mm tap through the water hardline outlet, was a perfect size, no drilling required, dont run the tap all the way through as you want something for your bolt to tighten up to. Get your bolt, smother it in high strength loctite or high temp RTV and wind it in tight. Let it sit for a day then cut it flush with a hacksaw. Dont use a grinder, don't want to melt the loctite or RTV.

    Next remove the temp sensor and drill out the hole with your 15mm drill bit, tap it with the 3/8bsp tap and using either thread tape or RTV screw in your barb and make sure its tight. You will see in the pic I've put some steel epoxy over where the bolt was, its optional but I had some on the bench so why not. Anyway, the picture shows the completed unit.

    8. Install your ITB setup, you will need new bolts as you no longer have the TVIS spacer. I used M8x30 with spring washers and anti seize for good measure. You will need to use a spanner for the lower ones though.
    9. Drape leave your harness where it is on the fuel rail, cable tie it down ensuring nothing catches on the throttle linkage. Wire up your TPS but the wiring is the opposite so don't match colors. eg

    1 > 4
    2 > 3
    3 > 2
    4 > 1

    10. Time to sort out the fuel lines;

    While you can use the stock FPR and lines its shonky and one day they will split and burn your car down. You have to kink the plastic return quite badly to get it to fit, bad idea. Your left with two options, run an external reg with a take-off on the rail or use the 20v FPR. The 20v reg doesnt quite fit, you need to drill the mounting holes out a bit (7.5mm I think) and very very carefully bend the outlet a little. Bend it less than I have. Run 1/4 fuel line back to where the stock line clamps. As for the main fuel hose, either get one made or use the stock one, your choice but the stock one doesnt fit well, flaps around and is made of shitty old plastic that hates being twisted and what not.
    11. Fit your water outlet, run hose to where the hard line went, use 17mm hose as 5/8 heater hose is an ants cock too small.
    12. Relocate the temp sensor to the water outlet on the head, I had some useless air up valve so I pissed that off. Extend the wire, easy

    13. Mount your manifold block wherever you want, you will need to extend the booster hose. Run your vac lines off the nipples etc

    That's pretty much it, I've no doubt forgotten a few things but you get the gist of it. Corolla may be a little different but I've got an AE82 engine in mine so it cant be that bad.

    That's my engine bay completed, not super happy with the vac lines but idiot me only purchased 2m of hose when I probably needed 4 to do it nicely.
    Tuning and getting it all to run is a whole different kettle of fish, your using aftermarket management so read the manual for that. I'm using a Megasquirt 2, runs them well.
    Last edited by dnegative; 03-03-2013 at 08:12 PM.

  2. #2
    Toymods Events Secretary Too Much Toyota trdee's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007

    Default Re: ITB conversion on a FWD or AW11 4AGE 16v

    moved to FAQs
    1988 AW11 9A-GTE - project #1 | 1984 MA61 1JZ-GTE - project #2
    Quote Originally Posted by Rex_Kelway View Post
    .....and the within first laps everything that made the AW11 great hit Rex as if the 'Gods of driving fun' had all Jizzed on his face.....
    Quote Originally Posted by JustenGT8 View Post
    Mono blocs close to yours as a Ferrari is to a Fiesta

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