TA22 manual conversion (pics)

[verm1n]

JOB- converting an A40 automatic gearbox to a T50 5speed manual


DIFFICULTY- 3 out of 10

TIME REQUIRED- a weekend assuming you have everything

SPECIALTY TOOLS REQUIRED
-clutch aligning tool (not necessary)
-torque wrench (not necessary)

OTHER INFORMATION
Important You will have to cut your gearbox tunnel forward to fit manual gearstick

Parts you need
Gearbox
NEW clutch
flywheel 'machined'
NEW throw out bearing 'recomend'
Spiggot bearing
Manual gearbox crossmember/assosiated rubbers
manual tailshaft 'needs to be moddified'
NEW clutch master cylinder
NEW slave master cylinder
flexible and solid lines assosiating with clutch
manual pedal box
manual speedo cable
gearbox reversing switch wiring
manual centre console
gearstick rubber boot


Optional parts that you may like to do
Engine rear main seal

CONSUMABLES
gearbox oil
clutch fluid
locktite/thread locker

This conversion is the way I have done it, may not neccessarly be the exact way!
I didn't take any pics on removing the auto as it would be pretty straight forward...
I did however put a rough guide on what needs pulling out for the conversion
Sorry if I also missed anything.. any extra info WILL help others doing the conversion... soo please add on

THINGS I GOT TOLD BUT WERE UNTRUE
MYTHS BUSTED

-Automatic starter motors will not fit the manual gearbox INCORRECT
I bought a starter motor from a manual but found mine fit

-Automatic sandwhich plates are different to manual sandwich plates (plate that is between engine and gearbox) INCORRECT
I bought one from a manual, exactly the same except a rubber bung

-Automatic speedo cable is the same as manual INCORRECT
I couldn't actually see the diffence in the manual and auto speedo cables, but mine wouldn't actually screw on

-Automatic Tailshaft is the same as manual INCORRECT
The spine that slides into the yoke of the automatic gearbox is larger in size, and the bolt pattern is different on the flange which bolts to the diff, auto is square bolt pattern, manual is rectangular

-There is alot of cutting/modding to the body to fit the manual conversion ie. clutch, tunnel, firewall INCORRECT
there is a blanking plate for the clutch master cylinder 'doesn't need to be cut'
the firewall will fit the manual gearbox 'no modifing or massaging required'
the tunnel WILL have to be cut a few inches forward to fit the manual gearstick 'covered up by the centre console'


REMOVAL OF AUTO

STEPS FOR CONVERSION

Step 1
crack open a rum

Step 2
Remove tailshaft
4x 12mm bolts and nuts
slide tailshaft out
Option 1 You will need to use the auto uni to put onto the manual tailshaft as the bolt pattern is different between a auto & manual diff
Option 2 Just swap the auto diff for a manual one

Step 3
Remove bolts which bolt engine to auto think it was 8bolts
and the 2 bolts and nut for starter motor

Step 4
Remove auto gear lever and centre console
I removed the drivers seat, just for easy access/makes life much easier when getting under dash

STEP 5
unscrew speedo cable on gearbox, undo the 4 bolts in the centre of gearbox crossmember. Jack up automatic gearbox away from crossmember, remove the
remaining bolts attached to the automatic gearbox crossmember then take it out.

STEP 5
Drain the automatic transmittion then unbolt and remove the automatic fluid lines running from Auto to the radiator blank the radiator lines off (not neccessary but look professional)
Just remove everything associated with the automatic gearbox on this side... eg kickdown

STEP 6
undo the electical wires at the drivers side for the auto 'reversing lights and neutral safety switch'

STEP 7
Pull the auto towards the rear of the car to gain access to the flex plate/torque convertor.
There should be 6 bolts about 12mm that need to be undone.

[verm1n]

this then should alloy you to remove the automatic completely....

NOW THE FUN BEGINS
INSTALLING THE MANUAL

STEP 1
Remove the automatic pedal box '4 nuts on fire wall attached to brake master cylinder', 3bolts and install the manual one
I would reccomend removing the pedal box, easier to work on.. You can either swap or if your keen swap the clutch and brake pedal onto the automatic one..
The automatic brake pedal is a different shape and the clutch is a simple bolt on 'DONT FORGET THE RETURN SPRINGS'



STEP 2
On the firewall there is a blanking plate for the clutch master cylinder.


Remove this and bolt the master cylinder in



STEP 3
GEARBOX
replace the slave cylinder before installing

replace the throwout bearing


STEP 4
Cutting the tunnel to suit the manual gearstick.. about 3inches
would be best to do this before the gearbox is put in, to stop metal shavings from entering your gearbox


I cut just enough to fit the gearstick, later I cut it much nicer to give clearance..

STEP 5
Fit spiggot bearing into end of crankshaft/engine
sorry i didnt get a picture

STEP 5
bolt the MACHINED Flywheel to engine 'use locktite/thread locker on bolts' torque to FT f@#$'n tight
then using the Clutch alligning tool asemble the clutch and bolt to the fly wheel

[verm1n]

STEP 6
lubricate the manual gearbox spline which goes into the clutch 'supplied with clutch'.
Jack the gearbox add slide into the engine.. fit the bolts joining the engine to the gearbox

I assembled out of the car then engine craned the lot in


STEP 7
Bolt the Manual gearbox crossmember in




followed by the speedo cable and gearbox reverse switch '2 bullet clips on passenger side of gearbox'



connect the speedo cable underneath the dash

[verm1n]

STEP 8
Fit the clutch flexible & solid lines from the master cylinder to the slave cylinder
pieces you will need


BEFORE

AFTER


Bleed the clutch...
2 person job.. Fill the master cyliner 'MAKE SURE IT'S ALWAYS FULL' someone pushes the clutch pedal the floor, once to
the pedal is on the floor the person opens/undo the bleeder nippler, then shuts it before the clutch pedal returns up to normal
'this action pushes the air out and sucks the fluid threw the system'

STEP 9
Bolt starter motor back in

STEP 10
NEUTRAL BYPASS FOR AUTO ' saftey so you don't accidently start your car in drive'
The bypass wiring has to be bridge so it enables you to start the car..
there should be 2 wire located on the drivers side next to the brake master cylinder which aren't connected but are in this pic


Option 2 run some wire into your car and run it on a switch 'use it as a killswitch'

STEP 11
swap the uni/flanges from the automatic tailshaft to the manual.. then fit the tailshaft


STEP 12
Refit interior including manual console etc.. test drive

ENJOY
VERM1N

[ctrain]

awesome thread mate!

Id assume the return spring on the clutch peddle would bring the clutch peddle further towards the driver? cos mine sits in further then the brake peddle.

im going to try and use the auto speedo cable on the t50 tomorrow, hopefully it works

by byassing the neutral byass switch do you just plug those two connections together like in the pic? also what is connected to the white plug, didnt it come out with the auto like mine?

cheers,
Callum

[verm1n]

awesome thread mate!

Id assume the return spring on the clutch peddle would bring the clutch peddle further towards the driver? cos mine sits in further then the brake peddle.

im going to try and use the auto speedo cable on the t50 tomorrow, hopefully it works

by byassing the neutral byass switch do you just plug those two connections together like in the pic? also what is connected to the white plug, didnt it come out with the auto like mine?

cheers,
Callum

Thanks Ctrain
Id assume the return spring on the clutch peddle would bring the clutch peddle further towards the driver? cos mine sits in further then the brake peddle.
- Yea it sure does, I would have taken this pic before the spring went on 'had to find one haha'

im going to try and use the auto speedo cable on the t50 tomorrow, hopefully it works
- I found the side that screws to the auto is much bigger than a manual one, I know the use the auto cable on the W50 gearbox conversion

by byassing the neutral byass switch do you just plug those two connections together like in the pic? also what is connected to the white plug, didnt it come out with the auto like mine?
-yea, thats all you do to bypass it.. you could also run 2 wires to a killswitch if you wanted, The white plug is reversing light switch.

Hope this helped alittle
Brad

[ctrain]

thanks mate, ive just replaced the spiggot bearing and im about to buy a new clutch kit, lucky cos the one on my engine was fucked.

cheers,
Callum

[verm1n]

I found a lot of the stuff for the conversion I bought brand new through autobarn, wasn't too badly priced either.. pretty sure i got a clutch kit for around $160

[Moey26]

hey guys, im doing my conversion, but the fly wheel doesn't bolt up to the engine.. i think its the wrong one, do u know where i can get them from, and what price range?

[lilcrash]

Just a correction.

Ta22 came with 2 different diffs, you just had the wrong tailshaft. Early is d series late is t series.

[Kube]

Can the auto flywheel bolts be used for the manual flywheel and the pressure plate?

[ToyTA22]

Manual flywheel bolts are much longer. Auto bolts only hold manual flywheel by about three threads, very dangerous idea. For cost it is cheaper to buy ARP flywheel and pressure plate bolts. I think where I bought mine on internet was euroimports.com out of memory.

[Kube]

Ah thanks, I can't seem to find them on that site. Or any other I've tried looking at. The only ones I could see on euro imports were for audi or vw.

[ToyTA22]

Ah thanks, I can't seem to find them on that site. Or any other I've tried looking at. The only ones I could see on euro imports were for audi or vw.

Sorry for wrong address it it euroexport which are on ebay. Ebay link http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ARP-Flywh...item2c9b0384b1 again sorry for wrong address.

[Kube]

thanks for that, any idea where to source the pressure plate bolts?