1998 1MZ Camry T belt change?

**2JZR31** · 17-06-2011, 09:12 AM

The camry is reaching 150k and is due for the timing belt. I was considering paying someone to do it as it appears to be a total prick of a job on the FWD V6. How hard is it really and does anyone have any tips? Or advice on what else to replace when doing this job?

Thanks.

**Dale** · 17-06-2011, 09:17 PM

Cam seals, crank seal, water pump, idler/tensioner pulleys/bearings

Depends how keen you are, but if you haven't done a timing belt before... or if you haven't done one on a FWD with the engine in situ you are probably better off paying someone to do it. But, if you're confident in your mechanical ability, keen to learn and save some $$$ then give it a crack

**2JZR31** · 20-06-2011, 09:37 AM

Cheers Dale anyone want to give me a really quick rundown on what to do? I have done plenty of T belts on RWDs. Never on a FWD. Will I need any special tools other than spanners/sockets, gear puller etc. Will taking the wheel and plastic guard off be enough to get to the balancer etc? Or to I need to take the drive shaft out etc? Will the old bar and crank engine method get the balancer bolt off?

Do I just pull off the large silver bracket in front of the t belt cover which has a black engine mount/brace that supports the top of the motor? The whole lot needs to come off?

So things I should look at getting when I am there. Cam seals, front main seal, water pump, idler/tensioner pulleys/bearings. I can hear a squeaking noise coming from there sometimes. So I guess one of the bearings might be on its way out.

**Dale** · 20-06-2011, 02:24 PM

Speaking generally here - I haven't done one on a camry before but have done plenty of other FWDs

Shouldn't need any tools other than what you've listed. If by gear puller you mean a jaw type one I wouldn't recommend using it on the harmonic balancer, it will probably chip it.

Wheel and plastic guard should be enough to get the harmonic balancer off - you'll need to take the drivers side engine mount off too, then you can lower/raise the engine to access the balancer. Generally this needs to come off anyway to get the belt off/on.

The starter should be able to crack the bolt, but it might not. If it doesn't you can try a long extension to get you out past the guard, a bit of pipe over your bar for extra leverage, put the car in 5th and have someone push the brake pedal... alternatively if the clutch slips or if it's an auto pull the starter motor or inspection plate and lock the flywheel with a screwdriver.

A Haynes type manual might be worth grabbing, it should have a complete step by step on how to do it.

Rough howto would be:

crack drivers front wheel nuts
raise car
remove drivers front wheel
remove plastic underguards
support engine from underneath with jack
remove drivers side engine mount
remove alternator, PS, AC belts
crack harmonic balancer crank bolt with starter or other method
attach puller to harmonic balancer and remove
remover upper and lower timing belt covers
turn engine until it is at TDC, make note of where the crank and cam pulleys are - they should have marks on the casings to line them up
release tension from tensioner pulley
remove timing belt
remove cam pulleys
replace cam seals
refit cam pulleys
remove crank pulley
replace crank seal
refit crank pulley
remove tensioner pulleys
remove water pump
refit new water pump
refit new tensioner pulleys
fit new belt, aligning everything to TDC
set the tensioner pulley to tension the belt
turn the engine over by hand, two full revolutions and check the timing marks still line up - if not refit belt and try, try again until correct
refit the rest of the covers etc in the reverse order to how you pulled them off

**3sgte** · 20-06-2011, 11:29 PM

The crank pulley does not need a puller, and the engine needs no jacking up or letting down. (But sometimes a 1/4 inch lift between the frame and the oil pan makes it easier to get that bracket off the front of the motor.)
The crank pulley bolt can be a total bugger at times though.
I had a 3/4 inch impact gun that I used to take them out if they resisted.

At that mileage the only thing we would normally suggest is a water pump.
Cam seals and idlers are still likely good. I'd bet the rear valve cover gasket is leaking though. If you change it, change the washers on the bolts as well, because they set the correct tension on the new gasket. First timers sometimes break off these bolts during installation. Change the PCV valve and its rubber grommet as well.
I won't do cam seals unless I can pull the valve covers, as I prefer to hold the camshaft and torque the cam bolts (so I sleep better at night).

The only catch on that is to make sure not to bump the rear cam out of position. It is relatively easy for a first timer to accidentally move it when fitting the new belt or removing the old one. If you do a new Toyota belt, they come with paint stripes on them to make it easier to confirm correct installation. If you have no stripes, then use a mirror to check the pulley timing marks.

For that matter, instead of spending 250$ on a water pump and idlers, I'd rather see you buy a rattle gun and make sure that the crank bolt is tight.

**2JZR31** · 21-06-2011, 05:38 AM

Thanks a lot guys. I do hear a squeaking noise coming from there sometimes. I wonder if it is one of the idlers? Also there is an oil leak and I can't see where it is coming from. So it will prob be the rocker cover and not cam/fms? Is changing the rear rocker cover seal a PITA? Do I have to take the intake mani off etc?

**3sgte** · 21-06-2011, 09:06 AM

The rear rocker cover is a bit of a PITA.

My experience is that they usually leak from the valve cover, above where the power steering pump is mounted.
If you are hearing an intermittent squealing, wait until you can hear it and spray a little lube on the belts.
If the noise goes away with the lube, then you have confirmed the source and know to replace the belts.
Keep in mind that there are 2 belts. One is big and easy to see, the other is down the back, small and for the power steering pump.