Jzz30 1jz > mx32. Fuel delivery help

[thriller]

Hi folks.

Have sourced a running JZZ30 donor car, sitting in the driveway right now. Should have the engine pulled tomorrow.

Problem is I need the space back as the parents aren't too stoked about 4 of my cars in the driveway, so I need to get rid of the shell quite quickly. I don't want to get rid of it only to find that I need something, so here's roughly what I think I need...
-engine/box/tailshaft
-engine bay loom, one that connects straight to ECU.

Might as well take

-fuel lines
-loom that the alternator etc hooks up to, which goes around the edge of the engine bay
-all under dash loom

Now in terms of wiring it all up, will it be simple enough for someone with relatively little experiance, or should I just fork out for an auto sparky?

Thanks all


EDITED POST:
Topic now resumes from post #9 Have everything sorted bar fuel...

[George]

I'd source radiator, exhaust, all sorts of mounts as well. Rubber pipings, a/c and p/s lines, transmission shifter completely.
Then I'd cut cabin loom connectors that run to ECU, and take fuse box just in case you'll need some relays/fuses in future.
Maybe also take interior parts you like, front seats for example.

Running the engine is by no means fancy, in the very minimalistic scenario you're only going to connect some 10 wires (power the ecu, injectors, coils, igniter, maf, oxy sensor and you're basically done). However I'd call a sparky . The one someone recommends so you're 146% confident he won't run a bunch of spaghetti and take $9000 for that.

[ivandude]

^ What he said.
- Atleast the stock headers which you may be able to re use (or fork out 1k to make new ones)
- Stock headers may have the O2 sensors
- Fuel pump
- A/C, P/S lines (keep ur old ones too)
- Trans mounts, engine mounts
- Radiator, fan shroud
- The whole AFM intake w/ box to reuse
- Maybe even keeping the brakes - you may need to fit them up if you wanna pass engineering properly

Find a good auto leccy. They will all charge the same but the inexperienced ones won't know jack. Searhcing for 'performance wiring' will be of use.

If your JZZ30 isn't a late 97+ model then that's good as it's not VVT-i. Various minor changes technologically leaves the VVT-i conversion just a tad more complex in comparison to Non VVT-i.

[dumbass]

Don't use jz330 alt loom its messy
Or at least cut it out
Just need engine harness and ecu
And maybe fuel pump ecu from rear quarter
Wiring is easy but make sure u learn abit about how things work so its easy to understand
Otherwise get someone when knows their shit especially when it comes to diagnosing stuff
Just incase there are issues

[thriller]

Thanks guys. Engine and trans came out today, all went well. Took out all the a/c and p/s lines, hopefully can jimmy rig them to the existing mx32 ones. Radiator and A/C condenser thingy are mine. Got the whole engine bay loom out too, but you guys make it seem like wiring up the engine harness to bare basics will be a bit easier..?

Tomorrow I'll work on getting fuel stuff out and then hopefully someone snags the shell pretty quickly.


Sounds like I'll get a sparky to wire it up (any ideas on costs??), unless someone can write me out a few paragraphs on how to get started and the basic steps involved? Most I've done before is bridging a neutral/park sensor lol.

[dumbass]

Good sparky will prob cost about 1000 bucks or so to get it all working
And get everything working
Make sure they can get everything working like ll your gauges

[wilbo666]

Sounds like I'll get a sparky to wire it up (any ideas on costs??), unless someone can write me out a few paragraphs on how to get started and the basic steps involved? Most I've done before is bridging a neutral/park sensor lol.

http://wilbo666.pbworks.com/w/page/4...JZZ30%20Soarer

Read what each pin does, what it is meant to connect to etc and then connect it accordingly!

Cheers
Wilbo

[thriller]

Hey Wilbo. You're a genuine top guy for doing all that!

So I'll only need the engine harness... That plugs straight into the ECU, no modifications involved...

Modification is then required on the body plugs, i.e. connect the body side of those plugs as is necessary (all grounds, check lights... Ignition Switch Power... basically everything in bold yes?).

There is a glimmer of hope... haha. Will be knocking up some of those engine mounts of yours too!

[thriller]

Arighty thanks for all your help so far guys, only thing I'm still concerned about is the fuel stuff...

I've taken the FP ECU out, has 6 or so wires, there's a few unaccounted for in Wilbo's diagrams, I'm assuming they're for power?

So how should I go about getting fuel stuff going? It seems like my options are:
a) wire up the FP ECU correctly (any clues how?), then rig an external pump onto one of the existing fuel lines. Is the FP ECU capable of doing an external pump???
b) transplant the whole soarer fuel tank somehow. Seems lots of hassle. Then have to do the FP ECU stuff already.
c) I'm an idiot and I'm meant to (your answer here).

xoxo

[stealth]

External pump is a lot of work to get going properly, you'd need a surge tank and bigger lines etc.

Check the size of the standard lines too, cos if its like my car (older carby engine), it will have 1/4 lines, need 5/16 for 1jz.

Hate to be the bearer of bad news but you'll have to drop the tank and make a bigger inlet tube, or trying fitting an intank pump from the soarer, this will be easier than a new trying to fit the entire tank...

Wiring wise if you've got the fp ecu, do your best to follow Wilbos guides and install it, it's a lot safer than using a switch or hardwiring it.

Good luck!

[thriller]

Bump up again rather than making new thread.

So have dropped both tanks and am currently going about doing more or less, this:
http://www.rollaclub.com/wiki/index....AE86_Fuel_Tank
http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=152084


Will be cutting a hole in the MX32 fuel tank and installing the JZZ30 baffle box thing.


Also, the MX32 has 5/16 supply line, and 1/4 return line. Is this suitable? Can't really find any info on da innanetz. (also it's measured by outer diameter right, not inner?

edit. fuel return will dump straight into the baffle box as well. There's a third fuel line also... the hell is it for?

[BEVANI]

The 3rd line down in tank ?
I would say:
1 line for fuel to engine
1 for return
1 for charcoal canister/vent ??

[thriller]

That would make sense, thanks.

So would 1/4" line be suitable for fuel return?

[BEVANI]

im using STD return line on my MK2.. i think its 3/8".. i know 8mmID hose fits perfect but dont quote me on that