3S GTE RWD MAP/Head oil drain/ Custom sump/ CAS

[Mouse25n]

Im RWDing a second gen 3sgte and uprighting it, I know I can use a double journal idler bearing to avoid machining bellhousing down but want to double check this.
Also have second gen 3sge and was wondering if their would be any advantage to using this head as Ive heard 3sgte have badly designed ports?
Want to use MAP off 3sge and was wondering what parts I would need to take off it like TPS ect. Ive heard that these engines collect oil in head when they are uprighted so was going to put an oil drain on head and was wondering where would be the best place to put this? (An approximate size would be nice too.
Planing on getting a winged/baffled(trapdoor) sump fabricated up instead of using 2S sump so would I still need 2S oil pickup? Any good design points would be appreciated.
Want to convert dizzy to CAS but have no idea what is involved with this or what parts I will need to do this.

[thechuckster]

MAP sensor from a 3SGE won't be any good, isn't rated for boosted use. Snaffle one from a gen 3 motor or an after market item to suit your boost level.

Taking the whole ECU/sensors from a 3SGE motor would have similar issue (not tuned/configured at all for boosted use).

I was going down the route of using a gen2 dizzi as a CAS but it sticks out from the back of the head by ~70mm even with the rotor parts milled off. My solution will be a trigger wheel mounted on the front of the crank and going waste-spark.

If you are still building the engine, see MWP's and other's threads about using a 5sfe Camry oil-pump front and suitable trigger wheel & belt pulley to give you a factory-like Crank Trigger. An another option is the front engine bits ( oil pump, sump, trigger wheel, timing belt pulley, etc) from a gen 4 motor (ST215).

Or just find a BEAMS motor from an SXE10 as use as is as it's already RWD and in NA form alone is damn powerful and has vvti.

[Mouse25n]

MAP sensor from a 3SGE won't be any good, isn't rated for boosted use. Snaffle one from a gen 3 motor or an after market item to suit your boost level.

Taking the whole ECU/sensors from a 3SGE motor would have similar issue (not tuned/configured at all for boosted use).

I was going down the route of using a gen2 dizzi as a CAS but it sticks out from the back of the head by ~70mm even with the rotor parts milled off. My solution will be a trigger wheel mounted on the front of the crank and going waste-spark.

If you are still building the engine, see MWP's and other's threads about using a 5sfe Camry oil-pump front and suitable trigger wheel & belt pulley to give you a factory-like Crank Trigger. An another option is the front engine bits ( oil pump, sump, trigger wheel, timing belt pulley, etc) from a gen 4 motor (ST215).

Or just find a BEAMS motor from an SXE10 as use as is as it's already RWD and in NA form alone is damn powerful and has vvti.

Ive already got both second gen engines so am going to commit to the RWD conversion.
Is there anything worth using off the 3sge? As non turbo intake is side facing I was going to cut all the intake runners and weld back on upside down to change throttle body from reverse to fowards facing.
If I buy an aftermarket trigger wheel setup can I just mount wheel to back of main pulley and mount sensor on block and run that with waste spark off Megasquirt of similar? If I was to do this and blank off the dizzy hole would I have to remove any of the block parts that spun the dizzy?
A link to any good CAS conversion how-to's would be appreciated also.

[thechuckster]

Trigger wheel would have to go on the front of the crank unless you are not using the power-steer pulley. See this thread as this is something I'm grappling with with my own RWD'd 3SGE

Removing the dizzi just requires blocking off the exit hole in the back of the head and ensuring that if there is an oil-feed hole in the bearing cap (that would feed oil to the dizzi bearing) is also blocked off (otherwise you'll loose some oil pressure to the cams, especially the intake). I can't remember if there was one my engine.

You'd have to search on here for examples of oil-drains - but the rule seems to be oil drain is required for competition use of a RWD'd 3SGTE, usually a largish pipe attached to the rear of the head going direct to the sump.

Can't really help with intake manifolds (I'm the non-turbo option and went for an S13 Nissan manifold attached to a gen 1 head via a thick adaptor). Just be aware that shortening the intake manifold runners will shift the torque curve upwards tho once you get into serious boost, that becomes academic. It would be the off-boost area of the map that changes.

You should also think about the water outlet at the back of the head.