Twin Solex on 18RG Help.

[JadeEstevez]

I'd appreciate some help before tomorrow because I'll have to drive the car to work =P

Okay, Today I did an oil change, but to do so I had to remove the rear carby just to be able to get to the damn thing... All is well, I finished the oil change! Huzza!

But now the old girl is running a little dodgy... To remove the carby, The only screw I messed with was the one that holds the throttles together so they open as one. I put it back in the same spot (I'm pretty sure...) but she doesn't idle right. Now the engine was cold when I did this but it didn't sound the same as it normally does.

Basically, I'm asking is there a way to make sure they open exactly the same amount together? Or is it trial and error?

[Nevakikamukau]

I'd appreciate some help before tomorrow because I'll have to drive the car to work =P

Okay, Today I did an oil change, but to do so I had to remove the rear carby just to be able to get to the damn thing... All is well, I finished the oil change! Huzza!

But now the old girl is running a little dodgy... To remove the carby, The only screw I messed with was the one that holds the throttles together so they open as one. I put it back in the same spot (I'm pretty sure...) but she doesn't idle right. Now the engine was cold when I did this but it didn't sound the same as it normally does.

Basically, I'm asking is there a way to make sure they open exactly the same amount together? Or is it trial and error?

I think you have probably affected the carby sincronisation. You will need to balance them again.

Cheers,

Pete

[caam]

Yep more then likely the sinc between them,
My question is why the carby had to come off in order to change the oil?? to get the filter off?

[JadeEstevez]

Z68 I think the filter was, It's a really tall filter so there was no room to get to it from the top and the old 'screw driver through the filter' trick didn't work due to not enough room between the driverside of the engine bay and the thermostat housing... Hard to explain, but I got it off anyways once the carby was out, I didn't think I'd mess up the balance just by unscrewing it but putting back in the same spot =/ How do I go about synchronising them?

I'll get a shorter filter next time -____-

[JadeEstevez]

I bought one of these right now, Just incase I need it.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI....8#ht_749wt_309

[allencr]

Just incase I need it.

No you didn't need it, but since you've got it, use it.
Adjust the thingy in between to make them equal, after first checking that the left & right barrel of each carb are equal to each other.

[Taff]

If you go ryco its Z145A. fits under the intake manifold.

[JadeEstevez]

Should I remove the carbies with the intake manifold to do so or is there a way of getting it right on the car?

Thanks everyone.

[jimberlake]

I'd check that it's gone back onto the manifold without any air leaks first before messing with the balance - was the gasket ok? did you clean it all up? - if there are leaks you will never get them balanced. Also check all the pipes\tubes are connected still, maybe knocked one slightly - this can put air staight into the engine.

Good test is to very carefully spray Ethanol or something similar around the gasket\pipes areas (keep you head out of the way!), if the revs increase there probably is a leak somewhere.

Hope this helps

Jim

[JadeEstevez]

Cheers, I'll suss that out on Sunday, Until then it still drives okay, Just a little different to before.

[river]

Hi,

Maybe it's now got clean oil and that's why it feels different

Never heard of the need to remove the carbs to get the oil filter out. How'd you do it last time?

The best oil filter for these old engines is the genuine Toyota item. It costs a couple of dollars more, but the oil pressure gets up quicker when starting. Don't know why or how, but over many many years of 18R-G ownership I notice the non-genuine filters take a second or two longer before the oil pressure is up (when starting).

Agree with jimberlake. I'd be searching for an air leak at first. You can use carby cleaner also. Get the engine idling and spray around the manifold. If the revs spike in a particular spot then that's where there's an air leak. If you've taken care to put the carbs back in the same static position as they were originally, the sync should be fine.

And nice gadget you bought! I may get one too, as the art of carby tuning is a fast fading skillset. Something nice and relaxing about tweaking and tuning an older engine that requires carbs, points etc.

seeyuzz
river

[JadeEstevez]

Well it was the first time I've done the oil on an 18RG, It has the same Tall oil filter my 18RC had except the solex's are in the way for my ratchet tool. That and the thing felt like the last person (Who was a mechanic, I have full history on this vehicle) didn't oil the O-ring... >___>

I bought new gaskets too, I'm picking them up tomorrow then I can be sure there is no leaks so I can tune it. This new gadget is really interesting, It looks like a really simple tool.


I agree River, Not many people know much about carbies these days... It's all EFI computer shit that you just plug in to know the problem. I'd love to be a pro at carbies as I love messing with them but I need to learn a lot more! Cheers everyone, I'll update here on how it went.

[Zammo]

Hi,

Maybe it's now got clean oil and that's why it feels different

Never heard of the need to remove the carbs to get the oil filter out. How'd you do it last time?

The best oil filter for these old engines is the genuine Toyota item. It costs a couple of dollars more, but the oil pressure gets up quicker when starting. Don't know why or how, but over many many years of 18R-G ownership I notice the non-genuine filters take a second or two longer before the oil pressure is up (when starting).

Agree with jimberlake. I'd be searching for an air leak at first. You can use carby cleaner also. Get the engine idling and spray around the manifold. If the revs spike in a particular spot then that's where there's an air leak. If you've taken care to put the carbs back in the same static position as they were originally, the sync should be fine.

And nice gadget you bought! I may get one too, as the art of carby tuning is a fast fading skillset. Something nice and relaxing about tweaking and tuning an older engine that requires carbs, points etc.

seeyuzz
river

OH river I do love you in a completely nohomo way

listen to the man marcus

i would also lean towards a vac leak 1st carb issue second

incedently if we ever needed to remove carbies they came with the manifold unless it was for carb work itself

[JadeEstevez]

Cheers, Zammo, I know River is very wise =P I always listen!

Okay, I picked up some soft mounts today because Autopro couldn't get the gaskets in until the 18th of october... I can't wait that longer. They said that it will delete the gaskets but were unsure when I asked about the plastic spacers, Do I delete them? Also, can I use gasket goo on the soft mounts?


Cheers =)

[allencr]

...plastic spacers, Do I delete them? Also, can I use gasket goo on the soft mounts?

No.
No gasket goo unless the surface/s are rough/irregular/corroded/whatever.
Soft mounts, read the instructions!!!! O-rings rubber/whatever is meant to be squeezed/compressed, NOT CRUSHED!!!!
If whatever you've purchased doesn't have something like these to compress under the lock nut, it'll depend on you even more to set it up right.