2T-GEU in a TA61 let go, now what

[melts]

ok so I have a loverly little TA61 that during a bout of thrashing had the engine let go. Engine was breathing a far bit that day and was over filled with oil before heading to the track. Part way through a lap the engine started to not deliver and it was babied to the 'pits'. I wasn't driving at the time but knocking was reported, a gradual loss of power, and i believe oil (it was a couple of years ago now, so bear with me)

now the failure isn't obvious externally - not rod through the block or anything so I can only conclude that a) oil leak and big end bearing spun out, or b) piston got too sloppy and things went from bad to worse in short order.

either way at this point in time i'm not in a position to take it apart and look. the car is 4 hours away and I'd like to take my solution for it with me next time i see it. this is a few months away over Australia Day.

Other facts - it has a t50 manual transmission behind the 2T-GEU, the car is currently together as well. also a T282 rear diff and independent suspension set up, which is what makes this a charm to drive on these loose surface tracks.


What would be the most efficient (in both time and cost) way to get this back up and running? I'll have 1 solid day, plus about 3 quarters of a day spare to do the work. I have a workshop worth of tools at my disposal, but I'll be on my own doing it all at this point. I've never done an engine rebuild but I've done just about everything else (engine swaps, fabricating mounts & rollcages, rebuilding diffs, replacing rocker arms, timing belts, etc) - however I come from a Nissan background and don't know any of the tricks to Toyo. I have a spending cap of about $500, but I can go over if I plan it right.

What gets it back on the track stock? will a 2T bottom end + gasket + studs be all i need to head swap (do i even *need* studs?)
will my head be any good even?

Should I just buy a 2T-G?
Sould a 2T be just as ok?
Could I buy a complete 2T, and assuming the head is fine on my 2T-G just swap that when i'm out there?
Is the only difference between the 2T and the 2T-G the head?
Is there any other engine, more common and more power perhaps, that shares the 2T bell housing and would drop in with new mounts or so such? will that engine + loom be cheaper than a 2T-G, will it be under $500?

I have no limits, this is a private track on own the family farm and its for events for my friends and family. I just don't want to unbalance the car

cheap is good, reliable is good, and a bit more poke would be nice (though this engine was tired when i got it, a 2T-G with good compression will probably feel much better...)


help me out, please

[4th surf]

Remove engine, bring back to perth. Contact me and go from there

[Silly Rabbit]

^^^^^ Seconded. Don't even think of making an sort of accurate diagnosis on the back of what happened a couple of years ago.

Here's hoping it is something reasonably easy to fix and doesn't consume large amounts of cash. Easiest option at the moment is to find a cheap 2T that someone is selling and slap that in for the meantime. Will get the car running again and then work out the options on the 2TG. Plus an engine swap is achievable in the day and half you have. Anything more involved than that will require more time and possibly specialist parts or machine work.

Best of luck with it.

[Silly Rabbit]

Get in touch with Clint and get a 2T or 3T off him. A secondhand engine and a few other bits and pieces and you should have her back driving again for under $500.

http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/eng...m-1jz-2jz.html

[melts]

^^^^^ Seconded. Don't even think of making an sort of accurate diagnosis on the back of what happened a couple of years ago.

Here's hoping it is something reasonably easy to fix and doesn't consume large amounts of cash. Easiest option at the moment is to find a cheap 2T that someone is selling and slap that in for the meantime. Will get the car running again and then work out the options on the 2TG. Plus an engine swap is achievable in the day and half you have. Anything more involved than that will require more time and possibly specialist parts or machine work.

Best of luck with it.

that sounds great, if a 2T will fit in then a 2T I shall buy - half the reason for the thread was to find out what will suit, and I was sincerely hoping there wouldn't be any surprises with the 2TG head that would stop me. I'm guessing now a 2T short motor will be all I need and the manifolds, accessories and ign/engine loom will fit up like a glove?

also whats the manifold gasket survival rate for toyos? If this was a SR i'd only be looking at buying an exhaust mani gasket if I felt rich, else I'd roll the dice and hope it peels off as its 50/50. The intake side is all 100% reusable and hoping for similar results with this swap.

and last question - though a search may also answer this - what sort of exhaust setup benefits the engine? how much back pressure does it like, pretty much.

Its unfortunate I'm not heading out beforehand to give me a chance to take the engine out, but thems the breaks.

[Silly Rabbit]

A 2T will be a straight swap with a 2TG. It is a little more involved if you are thinking of grafting the 2T bottom end onto the 2TG head however. Buy a complete 2T and drop it in without any changes. You will need the original 2T intake / carb and exhaust manifold as the 2tg won't fit due to the head design also.

The exhaust manifold gasket will need to be changed as well so no re-using of the old one. As for exhaust setups. It is just the usual extractors and a decent muffler really. Don't really know too much about back pressure likes or dislikes but someone else may know more.

[melts]

A 2T will be a straight swap with a 2TG. It is a little more involved if you are thinking of grafting the 2T bottom end onto the 2TG head however. Buy a complete 2T and drop it in without any changes. You will need the original 2T intake / carb and exhaust manifold as the 2tg won't fit due to the head design also.

The exhaust manifold gasket will need to be changed as well so no re-using of the old one. As for exhaust setups. It is just the usual extractors and a decent muffler really. Don't really know too much about back pressure likes or dislikes but someone else may know more.

thats a shame. so the headwork is that different between the two?

I was hoping to run the same EFI set up from the 2TGEU thats in the car with a 2T (i guess i want a 2T-E)

having to go from EFI to carby has extra steps with the fuel system and ECU that aren't attractive to me, but thats life. not overly surprised the ports in the head are different, but with that knowledge i'll need a list to do a swap. I'll be too far away from anywhere to consider getting parts or the like so I need to take everything I need and everything I might need in one hit.

• 2T Engine with manifolds
• 2T carby setup
• 2T ignition setup/loom
• Carby fuel pump (if it matches in tank) or fuel system
• spare wiring to link anything affected by ECU delete
• Alternator? (do brackets match?)
• PSteer pump? (brackets again)

I notice there is a 3T-EU but with a change in displacement that'd require the loom and ECU swap anyway, and I'm sure a 3T would be more coin than a 2T, and then adds a bellhousing... much crapping around can be had by the looks of it.

[dougTA22]

The port spacing is the same between the 2tg/eu and the 2tc/3tc. I have seen a few projects where people have made an adapter plate to bolt the 2tg carby manifold on to the 2tc pushrod engines, so you should be able to do the same thing with the 2tgeu set up if you have a decent enough workshop available. You can fit the 2tgeu dizzy into the 2TC block as well, so shouldn't have any issues with the dizzy hitting the manifold (especially with the adapter plate spacing the manifold out slightly.)

Bare blocks are almost exactly the same, uses same mounts etc except the 2tgeu has the mechanical fuel pump blocked off - you will need to re-use the blanking plate from the old 2tgeu on the 2TC. The water pumps are not interchangeable - the pushrod 2TC water pump has an extra outlet to the head that fouls on the twin cam head. All other ancillaries are the same. Water pump outlet to the radiator is in a different location and angle so will need a different top hose. Exhaust manifold is the same, bellhousing the same etc etc (bellhousing also fits a 3t).

Easiest would definitely be another 2tg/2tgeu, but I think you are pretty unlikely to find one for $500 that is in any sort of running condition. 2TC is not really that much harder and could be done within your budget

[dougTA22]

Example:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mDC_elI5HKI

There's even a how to on here:

http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/tec...d-adapter.html

Looks like quite a simple adapter. There is a slight difference between the 2tg manifold and 2tgeu manifold, but they are still compatible - I am running a standard 2tg manifold and carbies on a 2tgeu head in my car and it bolts up with no modifications - from memory there is just one extra bolt that doesn't get used.

Cheers,
Doug

[melts]

that looks great doug thanks. looks like I do need a 2T short motor afterall, and a big bit of ally flat bar stock.

that'll work a charm really, hafta remember to take photos when i get it all done too.