RA40 18R-C Constant Stalling Problem HELP PLEASE :)

[flynny]

So a few weeks ago i did a trip from moruya to sydney and back (+-700Km round trip) in a day to pick up a car for my friend.
Car ran fine the whole way, untill about 10 k's from home it started to miss like it was running out of fuel (my fuel gauge doesn't work), so i pulled over and left it for the rest of the night (it was at 2.30 in the morning) and got a lift home in my mates new datto which was following me.
the next day i filled it with 10L and drove it straight to the petrol station and topped it up, and as soon as i pulled out of the petrol station, it started to do the exact same thing as it did the night before, like fuel was being fed in small doses, jerking the car, and this continued to happen at random times for the next couple of days.

We tried all sorts of things but it basically came down cleaning the jets, but while we had the carby off we did a basic rebuild anyway (needle and seat, gaskets)
and wallah! that problem is fixed! and it hasn't happened again
BUT, intermittently, the car would completely stall when stopped and this has now gotten to the point where it stalls every time, except when first started when it idles fine @750, then when you reverse out the driveway and clutch to put into first, revs just drop to zero and, STALL!, even when the clutch is engaged at any speed, the revs go straight down to 0 and the car turns off.

basically a rundown of what we have done to try and overcome:
Changed fuel filter
Changed spark plugs, set gaps to 0.8
Cleaned points in dizzy cap
Cleaned Rotor Button
New Contact set, set to 0.45
New Condenser
Cleaned Air Filter
Dwell angle is correct
Timing is correct
Removed Idle Stop Solenoid from Carby
Took Carby apart again and made sure every thing was operational
Reset float level to 10mm raised 1mm lowered (may have overcome if flooding was occuring)
Idle mixture screw is set to 3 turns back, this was the best setting
Idle Screw set, (revs @ 750 when initially started)
All hoses to carby have been rechecked several times, correct fitting
New Water Temp Sender Unit (old one didn't work)
No obvious signs of vacuum leaks

the only advantage that has come out of this is it starts and runs a hell of a lot better, BUT IT STILL STALLS!!

the last thing we are going to do is put a new ignition coil on her on Wednesday, the primary coils resistance is 1.4 ohms, but the secondary is a little over, 16.5K ohms if i can remember correctly, which may be causing a weak spark, and also the car was only bought 2 weeks before this happened and belonged to an elderly lady, who only managed to put 91000ks in the 27 years she owned it, so maybe the coil couldn't handle such a long trip?

if anyone has any ideas or knowledge on this please give me what you have, im having too much fun and learning so much working on this that i'd hate to just send her to the mechanics for a quick fix
cheers

[Willofan]

I can give you a good 18rc carby to try and a coil if you need.
Located in Taren Point if you are close by. PM me if you are interested

[allencr]

When it stalls, you've gotta find out ASAP whether it's still got spark and/or fuel before you start replacing parts.
Does it spark and does the accelerator pump squirt are the first things to check.
Fuel pump or leaking fuel hose on it's suction side.

[flynny]

@willofan, thanks man, but im 4-5 hours south of sydney, i have a coil to put on and i might chase another carby if all else fails
@ allencr, yep its definately got spark and fuel, float level is normal and the car drives perfectly, just stalling when stopped, and it can also stall when clutch is engaged during driving, the revs just go straight down

[Dazza]

If you need to have the idle mixture screw out 3 turns for it to run, then you have either a partly blocked idle jet or a vacuum leak. The inlet manifold can warp and cause a vacuum leak where it bolts up to the head. The manifold gasket could be rotten and falling apart too. If it has an auto choke then it should idle at 1500 to 2000RPM until it warms up and then drop back to 750 RPM

[MorgzMods]

I'm in much the same boat as you mate, talking like 90 thou over the whole time my grandparents owned it.

Mine is 3spd auto and I found it would cut out unless balancing the brake and accelerator pedal. Sometimes pretty scarily.

Because I'm lazy and not all that mechanically minded I've done most what what you have but have also had the carby professionally rebuilt (complete rebuild) and was advised there's intake manifold leaks as well. Apparently the carby was the main issue with the stalling, but the manifold leak was preventing a smooth idle.

Bit the bullet and I'm having the manifold linished and also having extractors installed. I get the car back on Wednesday so I'll let you know how it goes from then on. If you're keeping the car throw up a build log and some pics too!