7m noise.. please help

[hamgatan]

stomps woahhhh... u havent ordered yet already have you? i think bbaacchy sitll has that awesome-o 7M block with the eagle rods/ross racing pistons etc.. for sale still.. like 2Kish... pm him and find out before u go blow ur wad in the USA...

[oldcorollas]

and there are Ross pistons on yahoo also

[Stomps]

nah, havnt ordered yet, cheers Chris, i PM'd him, i hope like hell that he still has it.. thats exactly what i need.. Thanka again

Stomps

[hamgatan]

call him on his mobile coz he hasnt signed into the forums lately - 0421119249

[whatthe?]

Not to be a wet blanket, but I'm pretty sure he sold that engine. (took it out of the list of stuff for sale in his sale thread anyway)

[Stomps]

well that would suck ass, in a big way.. i'll send him a message in the morning, i dont think he would appreciate me calling him at 1 in the morning.. Thanks for the number Chris..

I will be hell pissed if he sold it... i'll have to track down the person who bought it and kick em in the nuts on general principle..

Stomps

[Robbman]

Had a similar noise with a 7m-ge, we were on a road trip and just had to grin and bear it for the last 1000kms. Turned out to be the crank pulley - they get loose and wear out the woodruff key and slot, you often can't feel it being loose as the fanbelt etc holds it tightly. The noise starts out like a light clickety and finally becomes an ominous banging rattle. The bolt holding it can still feel really tight too, it's only when you take it off that you see the damage.

Very common fault on some M engine generations, we tried to re-shape a larger woodruff key and pack it all with brass shim and loctite. Lasted about 30kms before the noise came back. Ended up tossing the engine for a 1jz.

Good luck with it all.

Much like the head bolts, the crank bolt also suffers from a low factory torque spec...305 N*m (225ft-lbs) minimum is what you should torque it to... not the factory spec of 265 N*m (195 ft-lbs )

[Shifty]

While the engine is running, and being careful not to touch anything hot or moving, touch a long-handled screwdriver to various parts (eg. the body of the a/c unit, the block in various places) and this will allow you to isolate the source of the noise.

I'd say it's likely a big end bearing.

[EldarO]

Michael (bbaacchhyy) sold it ages ago, the new owner is on here, and pulled the engine apart slightly and was incredibly happy with it, its a REALLY well built engine.

stomps, have a look at 7Mpower.com

see what they're running, to make their big power.

Eldar.O.

[Stomps]

yeah, i contacted micheal and he told me.. bugger..

anyway the build is still going ahead, but its gonna be more comprehensive then before, decided to get the head done aswell, not ported or anything, just valves, springs, etc... maybe find some decent cams, if not just go for Turbo A ones..
as well as bottom end..
injectors
ECU
and all the other crap..
Should be ready early next year..

Stomps

[Draven]

if you're going for an ecu and all that, why not port the head while it's off?

[Stomps]

yeah, fair point.. it really depends on costs of doing it.. but considering i've pretty much decided to go all out and have it off the road for a good part of a year.. i may port it too...

what sort of costs involved with that??

Stomps

[1200det]

yeah, i contacted micheal and he told me.. bugger..

anyway the build is still going ahead, but its gonna be more comprehensive then before, decided to get the head done aswell, not ported or anything, just valves, springs, etc... maybe find some decent cams, if not just go for Turbo A ones..
as well as bottom end..
injectors
ECU
and all the other crap..
Should be ready early next year..

Stomps

Dont get yourself ripped off buying Turbo-A cams as they are no different then your standard 7M Cams.



.

[Stomps]

Dont get yourself ripped off buying Turbo-A cams as they are no different then your standard 7M Cams.



.

Nah, i got a mate with a set, wasnt gonna buy em, but if they are no different then mine then there is no point... Cheers

Stomps