serious help needed guys! 2T ignition

[ctrain]

Today i replaced the fuel pump and o ring seal on the dizzy on my 2T today, i put it ill back together the way i took it off and now it wont fire, it cranks fine but sometimes spits a plume of fuel out the carby and sometimes feels like it struggling to crank, i made sure it was on TDC on piston 1, the rotor button was lined up with the 1 on the cap (or should it be pointing at piston 1 with the cap off?) i set the points to 16 thou, we made sure the dizzy wasnt 180degrees out and tried to start it, and it still wouldnt even fire, i really need some help as i have to have the car at the carby place tomorrow for a re jetting and i cant cancel as this will be the second time ive had to cancel.

[ta22fan]

Sounds like lack of ignition. Pop lead #1 off the plug, insert screwdriver, hold the shalf of the screwdriver close to the cam cover (3-4 mm), and turn the key - you should be able to see a spark. No spark is an indicator that something is not right with dizzy, points or coil. If you've got good spark, I'd be checking fuel.

[ctrain]

thanks for the reply mate but i got it started, it had nothing to do with the ignition, i had forgotten that i was half way through resetting the mixture screws on the weber, they were closed -.- opened them up and she runs now, its always those little dumb things that get ya, fuck it pisses me off

[ta22fan]

I find that it always helps to start with the basics - compression, ignition and fuel - it always boils down to one of those, even with the newer technology engines.

[ctrain]

well bad news the fucker wont even idle properly, ive had to cancel the re jetting again, this pisses me off, it was running fine last night, went to the petrol station to fill up and made it home fine, i get it started in the morning and it idles but has lots of flat spots, we turn the dizzy and try to smooth it out but that doesnt help, mixture screws are at base settings 1/2 turn in for the idle screw and 1 turn out on both the mixtures screws, i can get it to idle but it sounds like a tractor, i follow the weber tuning guide and that doesnt help turning out the screws 1/4 turn until it smooths out but it dies in the process, then its a bugger to start again, could it be fuel pressure seeing that the first time it happened was just after i filled it half way coming back from the petrol station?

[roadkill]

Hi,

always a good idea to just work on one thing at a time. Is it twin carb? Single carb? Worst case to get it to the carb place just bring the idle up to 2k so it won't stall and just baby it there. Re-check your points too. Every chance that they shifted just a fly shit if it is hard to start. My old 22 had points that were half stuffed and i ended up cracking it one it, sold it and bought an aristo........lol

bEn

[ctrain]

its a single carb, its a weber 38 DGES which is basically the same as a holley 350, the odd thing is that it was driving fine last night then this, i put a new fuel pump in aswell because the old one was letting fuel into the oil, we put a new oil filter in and drained the old oil and put in new stuff, and i put a new o ring in the dizzy, does the rotor button have to be at a certain point to run fine, i took my rocker cover off and made sure i was on TDC Piston 1 on the comp stroke, the i turned the rotor to line up with the one on the distributor cap then i put it in, then we reset the points gap to .4mm, the only thing we havnt replaced is the condensor, the one in it is 2 years old but would that cause this problem?

[roadkill]

hI,

firstly, just replacing the fuel pump isn't going to fix the fuel from getting into your oil. I would suggest having the carby looked at. It should have a needle and seat arrangement which is what regulates the fuel into it and therefor makes un needed fuel go back to your tank. Second, regardless of it the timing is right or not make sure that you have spark. Take out any of the leads, put a screwdriver up it and hold it a few mm off of the rocker cover to make sure that it is indeed sparking. Next RECHECK your timing. You want it to be just past firing cyl 1 when you are at TDC as the ignition will fire roughly 10degrees before top dead centre (you can easily adjust this on the fly by not securing it properly) Next when you try to start it i'd think that it is running hella rich, so try to start it with your foot to the floor - WOT style. If it is rich it'll suck in enough air to compensate and hopefully kick over. IF it starts then muck around with timing till it sounds like it is running well and clamp it down. If it doesn't start then (maybe) it's not getting enough fuel. Any pressure can will have something flammable in it (start ya bastard, deoderant etc) or do as i have done many times and just throw a coke bottle cap of fuel down the carby and try again. Also, if you know how double check your tappit clearances. If it's too tight then the valves may not be closing properly and getting no compression (which would also be a good idea - do a compression test)

IF everything comes back as being good then you'll have to look further at timing, plugs and fuel.... Also, re check your leads and that the firing order is 1-3-4-2 off the dizzy. I bought a celica years ago that wasn't running because the spark plug leads on the dizzy cap were setup 1-2-3-4 (i lolled)

Check for vacuum leaks around the new carby too. If it kicks when you throw the fuel down but stops very soon after then you may be sucking in too much air....

Engine will run fine with an old condensor, so don't stress about that. But make sure everything is connected where it should.

Lemme know how you go.

bEn

[ctrain]

ok this new carby doesnt have a return fuel barb, its only got the fuel in, the weber 32/36 that i ran also didnt have a fuel out, the original carby did so i had to cut it off and block it for the weber 32/36 to work, would it need the return fuel line seeing that its a bigger carby? i also here that if you adjust your float level it should fix it but i cant find any view holes to check the level or any adjusters ontop of the carby, ill try what you just said and i'll come back with hopefully good results, i also did just replace the old coil with a new bosch one aswell, but i havnt tried to fire it yet

[roadkill]

hI,

you should have some sort of fuel return setup. From memory the 18r had it on the pump itself. So it would say let 20 psi through to the carby, and then the excess would go through to the tank. I'm not very familiar with 2t's carby/fuel pump setup so i can't say exactly what they should have factory. The needle and seat in the carby should be doing it's job though stopping too much fuel from going through.

If the carby is new i wouldn't touch it. Just bolt on n go. If it doesn't work, take it somewhere that will get it bench tuned for your car, then when running take the car to them and get it tuned to the engine.

Re-check your wiring for the coil. If there is anything missing you may have missed something there too. Start with checking spark. Take 2mins to do.

bEn

[ta22fan]

The tuning sequence that I find works best is points first, then timing (you need a timing light to get this right), then set the mixture (vacuum gauge is useful for this, but not essential), then set idle last of all.

If you've replaced the coil, check whether it is one that is designed to operate with a ballast resistor (some do, some don't). Some of them have a higher internal resistance, and you'll need to bypass the ballast resistor to get a good strong spark. Generally pretty easy to tell - it should have something like "For use with Ballast Resistor" printed on the coil. You can also tell from the coil model number - just Google it and see what the specs say.

[ctrain]

with the fuel pressure (due to know fuel return can i run a fuel pressure regulator to eleminate the pressure, im pretty sure webers like 3.5psi fuel pressure, some say weber38's dont need a fuel return because they use alot of fuel, could it be that the carby is to big for the 1600 2T, it is basically the same a a weber of an xf falcons.

[roadkill]

i don't know enough about webers to say that it is too big/small for the job. Most guys use the 32/36 on an 18r which is a 2lt. You should be able to get it jetted for a 2t, but that would lie in the hands of someone that knows what they're doing with it. If you were going to put a new carby on (and take it to a carby place to get it running right) you would have been best leaving the old one on, take the car down, get them to install the new one and tune it to your car. Saves alot of stuffing about.

Any luck on getting it going yet?

bEn

[ctrain]

YEESS!!! i got it running beautifully, it is running rich though due to the big carby but its running smoothly and no flat spots, i havnt taken it for a drive yet but it revs perfectly, i put a new condensor in this morning, took out the dizzy gave it all a good clean, set the points to 16thou put the old nippondenso coil back in due the the bosch su12 not needing the ballast resistor, and i didnt wanna remove any of the wiring, set the two mixture screws 2 turns out and set the idle screw 1/2 turn in cleaned the plugs as they were covered in carbon due to it being very rich, (only way to fix that is the rejetting), set all the timing and it fire first crank,

im still not convinced thats its all fixed as it runs beautifully then shits itself.

[roadkill]

as in it floods then stall? If you've gotta WOT it to restart it then yeah it's running too rich. If it start and runs steadily then it shouldn't stall. That should at least be able to get you to the carby place though!. Glad to hear you got it running though!

The new coil will go in place of the old one just fine, it just won't need an external resisitor. If anything it'll work better than the potentially 35year old one that you already have there.

bEn