If they same as early ke's they have these 2 dowel things sticking up that hold the shock to bottom arm/ball joint, tap that area with a hammer or try and pry it out, take a photo and show us?
i had a look but couldnt see anyhing, so any help is appreciated. Is there a write up on uow to do this?, i got the back ones done no worries but am having troubles with the front.
So far i've got the too strut bolt and the 3 nuts around the top of the tower off, the two bolts holding the main bottom of the strut and brake set up to the "wishbone" arm (i thihk its called) thw strut and brake are loose but the wont come free of the wishbone arm???
I is stumped, help please.
Cheers
josh
If they same as early ke's they have these 2 dowel things sticking up that hold the shock to bottom arm/ball joint, tap that area with a hammer or try and pry it out, take a photo and show us?
The steering arm (attached to the lower control arm via the ball joint) should come free of the strut once you remove hte two lower bolts. Give the casting around the base of the tube a light belt with a hammer or mallet.
Front strut looks like this when apart:
(from here)
under the struts are the steering arms (which link back to the rack)
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It can also help if you disconnect the sway bar from the Lower Control Arm (LCA) to make it easier to push the LCA down and get the strut free.
Also make sure you disconnect the brake line if you haven't already done so.
Cheers
Wilbo
As above.
Once you've got the strut out:
Clamp strut in a vise (gently!)
Compress the coil spring with DECENT spring compressors until the spring can be freely moved
Undoo the big-ass nut at the top of the strut (it's inside the strut top)
Remove the top cover etc, keeping tabs on where all the parts go.
Slide spring out
Undo the gland nut at the top of the shock body. This will be TIGHT. You'll need massif stilson and a sturdy vise.
Remove the old shock components, pour all the oil out.
Insert the new shock
Do up the new glandnut (TIGHT)
Reassemble with correct torques.
Use the MK2 TSRM: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...ection=FA&P=10
hint: crack the strut nut (inside the top bearing) while the strut is still in the car and has weight in it. Don't remove it, just loosen it a few turns.
thanks for all the help fella's muchly appreciated, got it all to work, very happy with the result, and that little extra bonus of knowing i did it myself always makes a job more fun.
Cheers again
josh
Bump.
Just as a matter of reference,
What kind of shorter / short stroke shocks are available to put in the front of MA61's
i heard 40mm's worth of bunnings washers and MR2 SW20 rear shocks work?
or something like that ?? :/
Did a bit of a search , but no part numbers and stuff were found.
just some post from Rudi talking about a 40mm spacer... :/
and robin talking about ST185 shocks as a direct replacement ?
Yeah, MR2 Rear Shocks.
Have a look at RabidChimp.
I got a custom spacer made up by a local machinist instead of dodgy Bunnings washers.
Peewee
1985 MZ12 Soarer - 1UZ Powered
2013 86 GTS
I used SW20 shocks (and shortened struts to suit). Haven't tried ST185, but I had a feeling they still required spacers.
As we found with Peewees struts, they're not all the same length! Means you really need spacers custom made to each application, unless you're VERY certain of what struts are in your car. I'm very against the 'stack of washers' method...if those washers compress (and they will, washers are not flat, especially from bunnings!), the gland nut will in essence lose tension, and your shock insert could come loose. This is the only thing holding your wheel upright!
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