22re timing and stalling issues

[Bitsa]

Hello. A week ago I put another 22re in my Corona wagon. Bottom end untouched. Did stuff to the topend including a new cam & timing chain.

I have 2 issues that I can't shake.

1: Can't get the timing steady. Keeps bouncing between 5 & 7 degree i.e. it seems to stay on 5 for a split second then will start bouncing around then back to 5 for a split second then bouncing yadda yadda...

2: Since the motor went in, when it's cold it kicks over not too bad, but, won't idle at all by itself. Have since changed the cold start injector, the cold start brown thing underneath the throttle body, the auxiliary air valve and put some injector cleaner through it. No change after doing those things.

Today I retensioned the head and redid the valves. When I started it it wouldn't idle without my foot on the throttle. Held it on about 850 revs, after 30 seconds or so it jumped to about 1400 without my assistance and stayed there till about 20 seconds later when I took my foot off the throttle at which time it started to stall again. It's all a bit of a mystery.


Any help appreciated in either of these issues,

Trevor

[Dan_k36]

Checked for air leak?

[Bitsa]

Thanks for the reply. Appreciate it. Yeah mate have checked for air leaks and there don't appear to be any. Thing is, once the car warms up all is good or so it seems. It goes like a lower end of the scale rocket. Like I said, it's a bit of a mystery. Have just changed the motor, gearbox, and basically the complete front end so don't really want to start pulling things apart again, which is why I'm just replacing the bolt on things to see if anything fixes it. Nothings worked so far. Booooooooooo...

[Bitsa]

Replaced the coolant temp sensor today and it seems to have fixed the cold start issue. Early days but all signs are good. No more need to touch the throttle when it starts.

Anyone have an idea about what can make the timing jump around ?

[Dan_k36]

Is it a pully that has a rubber ring sandwiched in tween the marks and center part? That rubber could be loose and causes it to move around,

[HMI265]

silly question, but by memory from reading the manual (22re celica) years ago didn't you need to bridge out the diagnostics ports when doing the timing?
also ir rgw idea jumping around with the timing? i.e. rev hunting?
possible vacuum advance?

[Bitsa]

Thanks for the replies men.

Re the bridging, yeah I did that. Discovered I'd put the distibutor in at 0 degrees instead of 5 BTC. Took it out, did it right, no different. Boooooooo. Might take it to the local dyno man.

[HMI265]

have you looked at the condition of the mess of vacuum lines and are they all going to the right spots?
If you full advance or full retard the dizzy does it make it any better? Its pretty easy to put it in 1 tooth the wrong way.

[Dazza]

Have you checked the rotor button to make sure it is not worn where it pushes onto the distributor shaft so it can move a bit. If it was a carby motor with mechanical advance in the distributor there are springs inside the distributor that can stretch or brake and will let your timing move at idle but it will stay steady when the revs are increased.

[Bitsa]

Re the vacuum lines: they're all in good nick and in the right spots. Tried taking the distributor out and putting it back in a multitude of times. In fact I've used 3 different distributors. No different. I think the 3 dizzies I have are all in good nick, rotor buttons etc.

Really don't want to, but, might have to pull the timing cover off to see if I put the chain on right.

I appreciate the replies,

Trevor

[Bitsa]

Today after some fiddling (on the motor) I restarted the motor to do the timing. Car wouldn't idle by itself so I held the throttle open and put the timing light on and the timing mark was steady as she goes. No jumping around at all. Beautiful. Problem was it wouldn't idle. Found that I hadn't connected the plug in thingy to the afm. Plugged it in and the car idle returned, went to set the timing and it's jumping around again. Damn.

Question is, what's the afm got to do with the timing ?

Any help, thoughts etc appreciated,

Trevor

[random]

When u bridge diagnosis terminals, does the check engine light flash? If not, it's not going into diag mode properly: tps is out of spec and needs adjusting to be able to set timing.

[Bitsa]

When u bridge diagnosis terminals, does the check engine light flash? ....

Thanks. Didn't know that, so, just checked and yes it does flash.

Also today I unhooked the TPS plug and the timing was steady as she goes, far advanced but steady. Hooked the TPS back up and the timing starts bouncing around again. It did the same the other day when I unhooked the AFM plug, i.e timing steady as she goes, plugged the AFM back in and the timing started bouncing around.

It's just about got me beat.

[Bitsa]

It's all so confusing. Here is a pic of the 22re camshaft. The red and blue dot were placed by me.
Attachment 15365
Marked with the red dot is the cam thrust plate. The thrust plate is clearly positioned behind the camshaft sprocket.

Herein lies a problem.

When reinstalling the camshaft the manual says to put that thrust plate where the blue dot is i.e. attached to the distributor drive gear in front of the camshaft sprocket.

Anybody know where it really goes ?

[Bitsa]

Found that the thrust plate won't actually go where the picture in the engine manual says it goes. I wonder what other drawings in that manual are wrong ? Ah well, the engine manual diagrammer is probably still gigglin'.