18r running issues + advice needed

[MorgzMods]

Hi all,

I'll post more about the running issues i'm having once i get the videos uploaded and working

What i would like some opinions on is the following:

I have an 18r-c, carby and extractors sitting in my shed here from Taff and i've just spoken to a bloke that's got an 18r-g with quad solex's and extracotrs that he is happy to part with for zilch.
Both engines were previously owned and running afaik, but could do with a clean up (i'm new to this engine stuff)

He said that using parts from both i could build a pretty fantastic engine (compared to a stock ra40), i.e 18r-c block with 18r-g everything above it.
I did manage to catch that a head recondition, port polish and obviously a new gasket would be in order.

What i need some advice on is whether it's a worthy undertaking?
And mainly, if i did most of the work that doesn't need specialist tools myself how much would building said engine cost?

I am completely new to all of this, apologies in advance

18r-c running issues:



I do not usually pump the brake like that when driving, it was the only way to recreate the stopping that happens every time i drive unless i balance the brake and the accelerator when stopping (regardless of braking soft/hard) And stopping on a slight backwards slope is horrible.
At the moment it is tuned to idle a lot higher than factory to help prevent the cutting out.
Even when tuned to factory specs it cut out just like this.

[Zammo]

only the basic bottom end components can be used

block crank rods aux shaft lower timing gear are same and maybe pistons are usable, rc dizzy will work too but not proper

oil pump timing cover head and all the rest are different

[MorgzMods]

Cheers for the reply Zammo!

Is there an advantage to the 18r-c bottom end over the 18r-g? or would it come down to condition, etc?
When you say the dizzy will work but not properly, will it cause issues? or just hold back the potential?

also updated OP with the running issues i'd love help with

[Zammo]

dizzy will just hold back potential no advantage to rc over rg other than if the bits are in good nick save a few dollars

will check your vid shortly and get back to ya

[Zammo]

listening to the vid

idle mixture adjustment? id say carburetor needs a kit put through it its not delivering the right amount of fuel at idle the acc pump seems to resolve the issue so its not metering the fuel at idle properly have you checked the filters and pump and line/hoses

[MorgzMods]

I've got another carby sitting here along with a rebuild kit ;D I just have nfi what to use that on.
Given mine has done 90k (hasn't ticked over) and the spare i have here is an unknown factor, should i rebuild the one current on the engine?

I've replaced the filter and fuel lines immediately around the filter. But none of the <7mm hoses from the pump on.
The smaller ones certainly seem well secured though. Is the skinny replacement hose expensive?

[Zammo]

hose is not expensive

carby well pull the old one apart check for wear and defects if none are found rebuild it then just swap the carbs over that way you have a working one to go back too if it goes to shit

[MorgzMods]

Cheers

I sound like a real noob here, but toyheadauto only lists fuel pumps that sit inside the tank, am i mistaken in thinking the small silver contraption that is bolted onto the engine and has the fuel lines from the filter running to it is the fuel pump? This thing, found it searching for 18rc fuel pump just wanted to know for sure haha
If there's issues taking off on uphill slopes would a pump replacement be in order?

[Zammo]

silver thing on the block IS the mechanical fuel pump i dont think your car has an intank pump :/

the uphill thing leads back to the carby and fuelling issues

you can check the pump buy disconecting the fuelline while its running to see if it pumps, those pumps have diaphragms in them that deteriorate too but when that happens they dont run at all so i dont think thats the prob


http://www.offroadforum.cz/toyota/aa...578/whnjs.html 18r service info from hilux but basic eng stuff is there

[thechuckster]

a dodgy pump usually shows itself up by low/lack-of pressure and stumbling when trying to accelerate. Basically the carbi runs out of fuel as the pump cant fill it up quick enough.

If the motor plays up badly when the car is on a slope, I'd have a look at the float level in the carbi - it could be way to low thus uncovering the main jets when the car is angled upwards.

I would suggest grabbing the whole 18RG anyway (if it's cheap), selling off the carbis and locating the hardware for the EFI version (manifold, throttle body, injectors & rail, electricals). You then replace the fuel tank with one from an EFI RT142 Corona or RA65 as it gives you an in-tank pump and an EFI-suitable tank in one shot. Think of this as a more sensible long term project - having modded an 18R with turbo+EFI, it was a useful learning experience but ultimately very frustrating.

In the mean time, take the carbi back off the RC and check the float valve as per the manual. If it's the fuel pump, get a cheap facet or other electrical pump to suit carbi engines, wire it in at the tank with a filter between the tank and it, delete the pump at engine, make sure you have some sort of pressure relief at the carbi (the mechnical pump at the engine does the pressure regulation) or get a fuel pressure regulator to suit carbis and fit it in the engine bay (with it plumbed up to the fuel feed line, the fuel return line and obviously the carbi).

Once running, you drive it like it's stolen while you build the 18RG.

[JadeEstevez]

Don't use the 18RC pistons, You'll get shit compression, Good light boost but not Naturally aspirated. Put the RG pistons in it and you should be fine, But then you might aswell just rebuild the RG and forget the RC.

Unless of course you want matching engine number to your ID plate, use the RC block with 18RG head, cops won't know =P

[MorgzMods]

snip

Will check the pump when i've got some time and replace the pressure lines.
Thanks for the link too! it'll be handy.

snip

From reading Zammo's link my rebuild kit will sort out the float too.

Uhmm, i guess you could say the 18RG is cheap... really cheap ;D
I always thought that i'd keep the RA40 stock, but i like driving it and it hasn't cost me much to get it where it is. Even if i retire it from daily duties i'd definitely keep it as a weekender.

Would you suggest rebuilding the spare carby i've got then installing it (provided there's no damage to it, etc)?
Also, is there any chance you could throw a few links my way to give me an idea of what would be suitable to do with the pumps etc.

snip

I don't mind forgetting the 18RC haha
The ID plate theory sounds good. But the problem with that is that engine is in the car atm, where as it's another 18RC i've got spare.

Would you guys be happy to write a list of what you think a 'basic' rebuild should include? I.e. performing as good as when it was new or better.

I appreciate the replies too!

[JadeEstevez]

New Piston rings, New crank bearings, New cam bearings, New welsh plugs, Complete gasket kit, Gasket goo, Thread lock for bolts (Extra safety ;P), New chains, New spark plugs, New Leads, New rotor button, New dizzy cap, New points, New vacuum hose, New fuel lines...

Fresh oil and new oil filter (Duh).

Basically, If your going to go to the trouble of pulling it apart and rebuilding, Don't skimp on anything. ^ This is all I bought for my 18RC rebuild, Plus clutch for the auto to manual conversion.

[MorgzMods]

New Piston rings, New crank bearings, New cam bearings, New welsh plugs, Complete gasket kit, Gasket goo, Thread lock for bolts (Extra safety ;P), New chains, New spark plugs, New Leads, New rotor button, New dizzy cap, New points, New vacuum hose, New fuel lines...

Fresh oil and new oil filter (Duh).

Basically, If your going to go to the trouble of pulling it apart and rebuilding, Don't skimp on anything. ^ This is all I bought for my 18RC rebuild, Plus clutch for the auto to manual conversion.

Cheers Marcus

How long would my current transmission hold up with an 18rg? would it be compatible at all?

[thechuckster]

Read thru the 18RG thread, it will tell you heaps about the RG motor:
http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/showthread.php?t=222

Simple electrical fuel pumps:
From memory, Facet is the brand to ask for, is a simple tho some times noisy thing that's designed for carbi use only. They look like this:



Simple regulator, only needed if the carbi does not have a return line (some bleed off excess fuel at the float valve- others do not - you will have to look at your desired carbi to work this out). If needed, something like this (tho you could easily find something cheaper). It looks sortof like this:

or perhaps this:



The current W50 will stand up behind an 18RG - a boosted or an angry EFI or NA motor will break it if you try hard enough. The current box will bolt up without any changes. Even the clutch/pressure plate should swap over to the RG flywheel (or just use the RC item). Bellhousing to suit a W55/7/8 box onto 18RG can be found but would not bother unless you are going turbo or racing.