Having the pick up so close to the bottom of the sump do you think it will have the same problem as S13 SR20 of getting blocked by minor knocks and starving the engine?
N/A for life...
Double post... mod delete please![]()
Did a bunch more tidying up and finishing off.
I have installed the numberplate lights. I just ended up using ke70 ones and changing the plug. I will need to file the plastic around the hole that the wiring passes through in the bumper for the plug to go through but otherwise its a perfect fit.
I fitted the front park/indicator light wiring, and its perfect and correct. Cheers Mirko. Just need some led bulbs as I have no bulbs.
I felt the stereo was jammed in a little tight against the top edge of its opening so I lowered it 1mm. Fussy boy I can be.
Fitted the floor wire, cheers Brett. Ill need Justins' help as the st141 sourced switch is 2 wire on the handbrake and the floor wire to it has a single wire only. I guess the other just goes to ground but I'm sure Justin will know. Also fitted the sender relocation line for the oil pressure sensing gear. Its going to mount off to the left strut tower as I think the space behind the left strut tower is a bit full up with wiring and crud already after moving the heater tap there.
I changed out the heater control cable for a mower throttle cable so its more robust and it works a bit more freely. Took a few tie wires to hold it in place in the switch block but it works fine, albeit a bit stiffer than standard but that's to be expected after increasing its length and number of bends threefold. I zip tied up some wires and generally organised a few things.
Next thing is to screw in the 6x9 boxes which will be rigidly mounted to the side panels I made. Ill just pack them up a quarter inch off the floor as I will jam some carpet under them some day and maybe some sound deadening too since mine was clearly stolen :bash: .
Once the side panels come out to screw in the speaker boxes I can connect the speaker wiring and I will switch over to the better condition seatbelts I bought the other day, which despite my specific requests did not come with the bolts and buckles I was missing. If one more person rips me off and wastes my time I'm buying a plane ticket and paying them a personal visit. I've had a gut full of people either not disclosing useful info, condition, or problems with items and insisting that they have what you need only to find out once it arrives that I was conned. A lie by omission is still a lie, especially if I ask a specific question about the particular thing. I feel its happened at least six times in the last year to me, the next person who does it learns the hardest way possible.
Ill have to call Medicine man and get him back once I charge the battery and I can hopefully get him to show me the most elegant way to wire the gauges and senders, and we can test the added electrical pieces.
I desperately need an ae86 radio aerial but I just cannot face trying to find one. I might just fit an after market one and see if I can shave the stock antenna hole. I gave my auto falcon aerial to my dad as his broke in his fairlane. I still might use some kind of auto type antenna but it would have to fit where the stock one does no issues. Id also prefer it on a switch so I can have it down if I'm using the ipod or cd player in the car and not the radio. The auto antenna on my ra65 comes up regardless of the source and it annoys me a lot..
I still need to snake and fit the interior light wiring and find a suitable led light I can mount on the cage. I might just use a foot of self adhesive led strip lighting I have in the cupboard. As long as I still can pad the bars somehow that will work. Might just stick it to the roof.
Once the speakers and trim are all in I can fit the seats and look at removing gaurds and fitting doors. Then door trims, and I can pull the motor out and do the last couple of mods I need to finish, like fitting a reverse switch, spot welding in a mounting lug for the fuel lines, and tapping a few bits to aide tunnel clearance. I can also fit the modified sump and the modified oil pick-up. Then its motor back in, and off for the tail shaft fabrication and the headers to be corrected, and then Ill buy the ʞ©$ɟing computer and try to run it. :eatlead:
Today I ripped off the gaurds, fitted the radio antenna, hung both doors, tested the stereo, put the battery back on charge, fitted a few bungs in the firewall and mounted the oil pressure senders.
I noticed that not only are the door locks missing, the rods that actuate them are too. Anyone have these or some loose doors I can raid the bits out of?
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Yes getting fired up to finish it off now.
Today I had some time so I went to the shed and installed the glass in the hatch. It really wasn't easy at first glance so I decided to install a rope in the rubber channel where the hatch fitted and used it to pop the rubber to the inside of the hatch as I worked it around. It worked perfectly. It took longer to clean the glass to get the old tint glue off it.
I then adjusted the hatch and clip so it locked in. I still might install some pins to hold the corners down as I feel the gas struts lift em a bit or maybe the glass hatch doesn't weigh the seal down as much.
I cleaned and refitted the bonnet and made the cap for it out of corflute so I could finalise my airbox design and check all the clearances. I decided to just simply redo the airbox mock up as I wanted to reangle some things and it was just easier. I got it fitting where I wanted it to. I need to shave a little fibreglass off the inside linign to make it perfect but not much. I used KD bond to stick the top layer to the inner layer at the rear of the cutout in the bonnet. The bottom layer was sagging a bit. Once that dries I can shave the bit that touches the airbox away. I also had to file a bit where the bonnet passed by and lightly touched a wiper arm. All fixed now.
I badly need some parts for inside the doors and then I can put the trims on. Once Justin returns to do the last wiring jobs I can fit the seats, console and any extra trim. Then its a brief engine removal and a few odd jobs before that goes back in and the whole car goes to get the tail shaft done and then back to Ricks for the headers to be swapped around and the diff bushes to be sorted. Then its time to buy an ecu and tune her up for rego. Might even try to rego it before its tuned if I can swing it. Make it easier to get around place to place for dyno and road tuning.
Did a few more things to this today. I secure the wiring along the left door scuff and over to the handbrake. I Modified the glove box to take all the relays, fuses and the ecu when i buy it. I routed and secured all the cables. I also made a mount for the ecudatascan and fitted that in front of the ashtray. I was pretty cluey with it, I spun around and trimmed the ashtray runner and put a fold in it, it bolts in like factory in place of the original. I then pained it black and double sided taped it to the ecudatascan bracket. I then routed the cable into the glove box with the ecu. I'm pretty proud of my system I created to hold the extra wiring. I folded up a trick little sheet metal clip from some leftover material and used it to hang the excess on the back face of the box, out of the way but still right where you need it.
I was really annoyed at how hard it was to access the ecu, fuses and relays in my old car so Im stoked with this. Nothing visible but all right there to be accessed.
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Got psyched on working on the car today so I did plenty.
Rubbed the rough old clear coat off most of the roof and got it nice and smooth. I also removed the rear bar and fitted the number plate lights, routed the wiring and plugged in the fuel sender.
I noticed that the black stainless trim around the windows was totally sun baked, split, and trapping water on the moulding forcing the stainless to corrode, so I got a razor blade and shaved it all off. Then I buffed off the corrosion with 240-800-2000 wet n dry and it looks a lot better.
I removed the headers ready for them to be fixed tomorrow. I noticed a bit of stray material right in the ports so I die ground and buffed the ports out and cleaned them up nice. Same with the bottom collector. I took some photos of the space around them to show Rick so they still fit when we are done.
I fitted the steering column plastic, and since I had a boss kit on there, I had to remove an even skim of plastic all around the opening where the wheel connects. I did a real neat job on the sander.
I spent ages cleaning all the muck out of both doors and making sure the drain holes were free and clear.
James gave me a mad tip and I was able to make the 1/4 window clips work perfectly without all the correct bits. Word to James!
I removed the front right gaurd, cleaned under and inside it, and swapped to the new door hinges from AJPS.
I fitted a single wire handbrake switch, so now I can fit the centre console and not dick about with the wiring any more. Then seats next time I go in.
I locked off the coil over perches at a fairly tall height, just so the car remains easy to work on. I also adjusted the toe as it was toeing out badly when it wasn't on the ground. I'm sure its not perfect but its easier to push about the shop. Pumped up the tyres too, that helps. Noticed I had not installed the front sway bar links so I installed those.
I found my rose joined panhard rod that's on car adjustable in the cabinet so I painted it in gold engine enamel. Ill centre the diff next time I go in to work on it.
Put wheels back on it, and then rolled it outside and washed it down with the fire hose. Its looking great IMO. Need to sort the bonnet out asap.
Hunted around through the shelves and found a mint pair of old school Toyota monogram mud flaps, so they have been cleaned and will go on the rear of the car when the time comes. Need two more matching ones to make a set.
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Top work mate!
I made a new interior light thats an LED light bar style. I made a bezel from 10mm polycarbonate and a backing from 10x20x1.6 anodised aluminium. Its zip tied to the top bar of the cage, since it crossed over right in front of the stock one.
I love this car, sometimes when Im feeling uninspired I sit in it, turn on the radio, switch on the lights and it reassures me that some day it will run.
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Good progress, hurry up and finish it, I'm more impatient about it than you I think haha.
Haha.
I need more work so I can buy an ecu without the wife knowing about it.
Have been fine tuning things in readiness to get he motor out and the bay tidied up.
I'm sure some of you guys will be happy to see I have clearanced a bit around the oil pickup. Now it features a minimum 6mm clearance from the bottom of the pan. I moulded it with some playdough as a test.
I have found a different water neck for the thermostat that looks a bit more factory rear wheel drive, even though its from a Tarago, and in accordance with forfucksaknaker, its been polished quite well.
I gave the outside of the oil pipe a nice coat of gloss black high temp engine paint, as well as the inside and out of the sump as per factory.
I also polished up the tension arm for the multi-rib belt.
Made my own interior light
I bought 2 litres of matching paint to the original paint code - 147 Silver Metallic and some thinners for it too. I have some undercoat somewhere already, hopefully its not off.
Ill be changing around the heater connections yet again, just because I don't want to take any risks on wrecking my new heater core. I have decided to add either an m16 x 1.5 boss so I can attach my heater hose to the copper pipe that returns to the radiator, or I will have a 16mm pipe braised to it. I want to move the connection away from the rear of the head as there is less chance of things rubbing together there. At the same time Ill add 2 more tank collars for the temp sensors in the dash and ecu.
I've had my headers switched around to be in phase now, and they have warped a little bit, but at least they are in phase. I just need a small bend in the lower pipe to put the collector in the perfect place, they just sit a little snugger to the motor.
Does anyone know where the best place is to get the flanges faced?
Medicine man has helped me with an idle control manifold, and its great. I just need to drill and tap one more hole for the PCV and then I can loctite all the threads with this plumbing sealant I have that's fucking awesome. Once the motor comes out Ill do everything that screws to the manifold with it as well.
Not much left to sort out, just the tidying up continues. I will paint the hatch and the bonnet soon. I need to have the humped cap made, Ill take the templates down this week and get it done too at the sheety.
Ill also take my headers by macs mufflers and have them fit the wideband bung and bend the bottom pipe slightly and then the exhaust can go off for ceramic coating at competition coatings. Do people have opinions on whether its worth doing the whole system? I was thinking just the headers.
Ok more to update. Motor is out of the body. took 4 hours on Saturday night.
Cut rad top support to make it easier, what a great idea.
Tunnel mods make motor removal much easier.
Have dropped off the cooling pipe to have senders and a heater bung fitted.
Have had the exhaust flange trued and the face linished flat enough to seal. Have had the wideband bung fitted and a couple of small bends to correct the slight pull in the pipes after phase correction.
My bonnet cap templates are at the sheety to be made in 1.6 aluminium sheet.
My top cooling plate is being remade in aluminium to save a few kgs over the heavy steel plate it was.
Looking for a reverse switch to put in the w57. Anyone know what fits?
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