2AZFE into AE86

[LittleRedSpirit]

Yeah I guess Ive just got to survey where the interference starts and stops with a dial gauge and see what I can relate that to as far as vvti operation range goes. I havent increased lift, so hopefully the fact that the pistons are designed for increased lift will buy me enough rotational freedom that vvti works and I dont have to worry about it.

The headache will be tuning the vvti. I guess I have to stage the controller and run a series of tests with different levels of camshaft advance. The I suppose its just join the dots to find the best spread hp and torque I can get.

[andrew_mx83]

Just fill the valve reliefs with playdough or bluetack, put the head and chain on (with HG) at TDC and turn it over 2 full revolutions by hand. Disassemble and inspect playdough, as long as its more than about 0.020" thick you should be sweet.

If you know how many deg the vvti will move just skip that approx number of teeth and round up for a safety margin.

[LittleRedSpirit]

The vvti moves the inlet camshaft by 40 degrees.

[LittleRedSpirit]

More work has been done.

I had my F series Corona housing modified to suit AE86 mounts.

I then took it to the diff shop where it was straightened, cleaned, and built.

It now has the Lexus type 2 torsen lsd centre with a 3.9:1 ratio. It will do slightly more speed in each gear at 6500rpm than my 20v rolla will do at 8000 rpm. I should hit the 400m mark at 6500rpm in 3rd gear if all goes as planned.

I also invested in the solid pinion spacer instead of a crush washer. Makes changing seals easy and carefree, and is generally better and it cannot crush further and lead to failures under stress.

Once I got the diff back from the shop, I taped over its orifices and then soda blasted it. Its now painted in etch primer and hammer finish gunmetal mettallic paint.

Still utilising the stock drum brakes for now, but Im probably going to ditch them and use a wilwood caliper and whatever floating vented rotor fits over the end plate and is 4x114.3 pattern. It kind of depends on what is in porportion with what I can end up putting on the ra40 based coilovers at the front. I intend to run 225/45/15 if I can make it clear the body on an 8.5 inch wide wheel.

That brings me to my next point. Im having the coilovers done this week. I have the Otomoto HSD kit with 6kg/mm spring rate. Its being mated with some rear sw20 koni yellows and an ra40 strut. Hopefully get this back next weekend. Again I will use the stock brakes for the initial running as they are an upgrade of sorts over ae86 items.

I intend to get this thing shod, flared and painted before the holidays so I can assemble and wire it then.

[LittleRedSpirit]

I fitted the new steel lines and Im very happy with the result. I also made a remote diff breather system for it with $11 worth of fittings. I used a ra65 T piece for the hard lines on the diff as it didnt clash with the relocated top 4 link mount like the original mx13 one did, plus it was about half the weight.

[LittleRedSpirit]

[LittleRedSpirit]

[LittleRedSpirit]

[Sam_Q]

really nice work there Matt. The belt tensioner is nicely simple and effective.

[Zammo]

wow this is cool & nice fab work

[LittleRedSpirit]

Thank you gentlemen.

I was running through all these ideas for slots and brackets and adjustment in my head, but then the idea of rose joints occurred to me while browsing ebay one day and a very easy answer was found using those.

I think it will work great, it has enough adjustment, and the only thing limiting it is the thick alloy front engine cover. In the place where it interferes its stupid thick, I could definately shave more alloy out there and get maybe an additional 10mm of adjustment if needed, but it shouldn't be.

Waiting for the fabricator to finish off the coilovers and then I can get it rolling on the right running gear and suspension. Which will then let me fit wheels to the body in the ideal flush fashion.

Hopefully finish it up over christmas now the hard fabrication is over. I need to wire it, never done it before, but willing to give it a go. I have enough knowledge and enough great friends to help me work it all out.

Dont know if I mentioned it but I sold my xt130 struts and bought ra40 ones to build coilovers from as the caliper bracket is a better thing to redesign on those. Im using sw20mr2 koni yellow damper as pictured above, cutting the strut tube to the body length and then getting the top rethreaded. The sleeves I got were the hsd ones. Been talking to a speedway guy, and those guys have an amazing level of equipment for the price it all costs. I might be able to come up with wildly adjustable bilstein coilovers for the rear with custom valving for under $700 inc fabrication. Im also using an adjustable panhard rod mount on the body, with a crank handle to wind it up or down on the fly like a speedway car. haha.

[crazycody]

Any update on this inspiring car? I would love to see and know more

[LittleRedSpirit]

Any update on this inspiring car? I would love to see and know more

Thanks for asking.

I polished inside the oil pipe. I also faced its flanges.

I Drilled and tapped a couple more holes between the engine and gearbox, and thats finalised the union.

I tugged out the 16mm cooling pipe in the back of the head that shoots backwards, and I had it helicoiled to M16x 1.5 and sourced a banjo bolt from the wreckers thats lets me use an oem power steering hose for the heater hose with a nice pressed banjo fitting.

I had the block holes tapped by a professional who did it as deep as possible You get about 18m of thread with m12x1.5 bolts, which should be fine with enough loctite.

I have made a decision to machine the 2az flywheel down to suit the y size ring gear. This has been done and swapped over. The only reason I bothered is to let you use a Y starter motor for a perfect factory bolt in arrangement. I had NPC do this work, and Doug also made me a really nice billett throwout bearing carrier thatt akes a beefier bearing. It all works with an 8mm spacer under the starter and the double row spigot bearing that many toyotas use anyhow. I think the bearing needs to be left out a coiple of mm from the bottom of its housing. By the time this wa sdone the flywheel had shed 980 grams or so from the outside edges under the ring gera, so I have effectively lightened the flywheel aswell.

Polished inside my inlet manifold, looks nice. Fitted all the nipples for my vacuum chamber and brake booster.

I plan to make a simple 4 side pipe with 2 end caps in it for the vacuum manifold, It will have one nipple per side towards one end, and the other und hooked up to the idle controller, and the map sensor can connect to the middle somewhere or maybe the end near the nipples, if you get my drift. Visual thinkers might, but Ill just make it and take a picture one day soon.

Also I have popped open the rear end and fitted some baffles that were supplied in a timely manner by Sam Q. They were from a later F series as my diff didn't include them from the factory being early 1970s.


Still remaining to do.

Set up in the chassis.
Fit all suspension and F diff so I can flare guards.
Repair the rear floor of the car and fit the fuel system
Make custom headers
Wire
Tailshaft.
Paint

[LittleRedSpirit]

[LittleRedSpirit]