Corona gearbox removal

[Bitsa]

I've just removed the motor and gearbox from a 22re Corona. My problem is I can't get the gearbox from the motor now it's out, and, I'm renting the engine hoist and must have it back today, or, it'll cost me another $81-00. I've removed all the bolts holding the bellhousing to the motor, but, the gearbox won't come out. It moves a little, but, seems to be stuck lower left.

So.

Have I missed something ?
Is there a trick to removing the gearbox ?

Any help appreciated,


Trevor

[Bitsa]

Done. RP7 and a wheel brace. Beautiful.

[thechuckster]

was going to suggest brute force but you seemed to have solved it.

[Bitsa]

was going to suggest brute force but you seemed to have solved it.

Would have been a good suggestion. Brute force was part of the attack.

Anybody got any useful suggestions when it comes to removing flywheel bolts ? Before I removed the motor and gearbox, and as I don't have a rattle gun, I loosened the harmonic balancer nut cause I'm replacing the timing chain etc. Bad blue maybe. Crank just turns.

Any suggestions on how to stop the flywheel turning ?

As always, any help appreciated,


Trevor

[scottreichstein]

put one of the gearbox bolts up the top and jam a screwdriver in the flywheel teeth to hold it as you undo the bolts

[nathanshnoz]

+1 jam a screwdriver in the flywheel teeth (make sure you get it in 'nice and deep like') and then whilst holding that in place use a socket with a breaker bar to remove the flywheel bolts one at a time

[Bitsa]

Thanks men. Never even thought of that i.e. putting one of the bolts back in to use as leverage so to speak. Very good.

[thechuckster]

or get a small length of chain, feed the chain thru one the bell-housing bolts and then fit that bolt into the block.

find a 40-50mm long M8 bolt and a wide washer, put washer on bolt then feed thru the chain, fit bolt into one of the pressure plate holes and screw in as far as you can go (without it hitting something on the back)

Now, if you've left a small amount of chain between the two bolts, the flywheel will rotate a bit when you attack the first flywheel bolt then stay still. If you left too much chain, then call yourself and idiot 32 times (this bit is important if you have an audience), shorten the gap and then proceed.

[Bitsa]

^^^^^
That's a good idea too. Cheers chuckster.

Attempted the bolt and screwdriver method yesterday, but, while the flywheel didn't move, neither did any of the flywheel bolts. Boooooooooo. Anyway, hopefully I'll have my brother to help me today so with a bit of luck and plenty of RP7 we'll get them out. If the brother doesn't turn up I'll give the chain method a go.

[nathanshnoz]

If the motor is on the ground, place the screwdriver in the flywheel so that when you turn the flywheel (try to undo the bolts) the screwdriver will hit the ground and lock in there. This way, using a decent breaker bar or large piece of pipe of the end of your socket, you should be able to crack them

[scottreichstein]

get one of the flywheel bolts in its lowest position and then put your breaker bar on it square level with it and hit the breaker bar downwards it will be less likely to wanna turn that way

[Bitsa]

^^^^
Thanks for the replies men. Appreciated.

[wagonist]

Make sure that the breaker bar goes across the centreline of the crank.
ie fit the socket onto the bolt, then aim the breaker bar across the flywheel and not to the outside.

This helps with trying to not spin the whole assembly.

[Bitsa]

Make sure that the breaker bar goes across the centreline of the crank.
ie fit the socket onto the bolt, then aim the breaker bar across the flywheel and not to the outside.

This helps with trying to not spin the whole assembly.

It's said, the simple things in life are often the best. Cheers wagonist.