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Thread: Weber 32/36 problems

  1. #1
    Im to handsome to be a Domestic Engineer ctrain's Avatar
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    Default Weber 32/36 problems

    Sup, i bought a weber 32/36 recently and im having 2 small problems with it, it idles very low (600-700) on cold mornings and is now starting stall, now I know this is because I dont have the electric choke wired up, i will wire it up today but im not sure where, it needs a 12v source on start, i used to have it connected to the horn but that has a constant power even when the cars off and im afraid it may drain the battery, i read the i shouldnt wire it up the the distributor side of the coil, does that mean dont wire it up to the -ive side of the coil or dont wire it up to the distributor?

    the other problem is also when its been started, whenever i go to rev it suddenly it starts to splutter like it doesnt have an accelerator pump (it has one) and if i keep trying it eventually backfires out the carby, but i can get the revs up if i slowly pic up the revs and once the engines around 40-60degrees the problem dissapears.

    I do need to get it rejetted as its suited to a 1.8lt 3T (mines a 1.6lt 2T)

    Any help would be great!

    Cheers, Callum

  2. #2
    TA22 Junkie Backyard Mechanic Silly Rabbit's Avatar
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    Default Re: Weber 32/36 problems

    Check this out for some fine tuning help

    http://www.cjclub.co.il/files/Weber3236adjust.pdf

    Probably doesn't hurt to bump the idle up by 200-300rpm to stop it from stalling. As for the backfiring the needle in the float might not be seating correctly and over fuelling at idle and if you are pushing the accelerator to clear it this will just push more fuel in and then the backfire happens. Once it is warm it would go away as the petrol can vapourise a little better. Just my thoughts on what it could be.

    I don't know if there would be much difference in jet setting between a 2T and 3T unless it came off a worked 3T.

    The beauty of the 32/36 is that they are reasonably easy to play with and pull apart so do some reading and have a crack yourself. My 32/36 was overfuelling at idle and would die in the middle of traffic and I kept pushing the accelerator to clear it but that just forced more fuel. The RACV guy said to push and hold the accelerator flat to the floor and that would open the butterflies but not force more fuel in so I could then restart it. Simple when you know how
    “From the five years, 1968-73, if you were an F1 driver at that time, there was a very likely chance that you would have died.”
    - Jackie Stewart
    (now that's my type of racing )

  3. #3
    Im to handsome to be a Domestic Engineer ctrain's Avatar
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    Default Re: Weber 32/36 problems

    thanks for that link silly rabbit!,

    i was thinking of scrapping the whole 32/36 and getting a weber 38/38 off ebay when i get my tax back. This 32/36 had been sitting for a few years in a shed and i reckon it needs a rebuild, which i should have a go at doing me thinks, any experience with these weber 38's?

  4. #4
    TA22 Junkie Backyard Mechanic Silly Rabbit's Avatar
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    Default Re: Weber 32/36 problems

    32/36 are plenty fun......I ran my 3T for ages with one and it was a great mix of good fuel economy and performance...........stick with it or go the whole hog and twin 40mm Solex it
    “From the five years, 1968-73, if you were an F1 driver at that time, there was a very likely chance that you would have died.”
    - Jackie Stewart
    (now that's my type of racing )

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