which ever holes are on the smallest pcd, usually the upright to bracket.
I'm trying to replace the rear drums on my Excel (yes I know).
I've found out that the Elantra rotors fit onto my Excel hubs, and that this rotor is identical in dimensions (except for the centre bore) to the rear rotor on CJ Mitsuibishi Mirage RS that was brought in for a one make series a few years ago.
Also, rear cast "upright" for both the Excel and Mirage share the same bolt pattern for the rear backing plate and/or caliper mounting bracket.
So looking good so far.
The only difference I've found is that the Excel hub is 10mm further outboard than the Mirage, meaning that the caliper and rotor will be 10mm offset from each other, and I can't move the wheel inboard (ie by changing hubs) because the tyre is already rubbing some paint off the suspension spring under heavy cornering loads.
As the Excel is further outboard, I can make a 10mm spacer to suit.
My question is whether I should make the spacer to fit between the caliper bracket and the cast upright
or to fit it between the caliper and the caliper bracket?
The caliper bracket is steel and can therefore we welded and have ribbing added to reduce side flex if needed.
which ever holes are on the smallest pcd, usually the upright to bracket.
????
Not sure if you've quite understood what I'm getting at. (Sorry, I haven't been able to get pics)
I need to move the caliper outboard by about 10mm.
The bracket that holds the caliper is a steel plate which bolts onto the cast upright.
My options are:
1. install 10mm spacer between the bracket and caliper. 2 bolts and single strip of steel which should be easy to make (green)
2. install 10mm spacer between the bracket and cast upright. 4 bolts and chunk of steel which needs to have a large hole machined out of the middle for the stub axle (red)
Considering the rotational force of the brakes (handbrake turns are used quite a bit currently), and the need for 10mm longer bolts, option 2 would be stronger.
But is a lot more difficult to make
Option 1, fwiw the z32 front calipers onto ma61 front struts use a simple 8mm spacer between caliper and mount.
Yeah, well I might be making the whole thing yet.
Found out that the Proton Satria GTi (which is an older Mirage anyway) works and should be easier to find because the car was sold here, but having trouble locating some so I can actually confirm offset, etc...
I may have an issue with clearance of the caliper to the cast upright because of the different way the rear ends are set up, and I really need to check this.
option two strongest (my wording was poor. Keep increase lever arm to minimum diameter), but 10mm spacing isn't much. Don't rally cars slide anyway?![]()
Still chasing up options. found a wrecker who said they had a Satria GTi, but now it turns out that they meant for the "Gen 2" which does have a disc brake rear end.
but he wants to sell me the entire rear end for $150 per side, but I don't know if it fits or not.
For $300, I could probably get the plates made up & get calipers.
Spacer at the caliper would cost you nothing. Water cutting for the hub spacer might set you back $100 total. Can't loose much by trying the spacer first?
Do you know of someone who could do the water cutting?
I have a sneaking suspiscion that I'm going to have clearance issues with the brake caliper to suspension.
The Mirage/Colt have their multilink setups equi spaced either side of the axle line, whereas the Excel is in line & behind. The caliper sits to the rear of the axle line, and with the handbrake mechanism is quite bulky.
we used to use these guys:
http://www.whitepages.com.au/busines...lution+Cutting
I think they've shut down now though, they were good and cheap with your own dxf file.
Nothing hyundai came rear disk?
Elantra did, but the mounting tabs for the caliper are part of the cast upright, which is a completely different shape.
Plus the pads for the Elantra are a weird shape and nothing decent is available for them.
I'm already fitting the matching Mitsu front brakes (EVO 1/Galant VR4) of 284mm rotor & twin spot caliper (which bolt directly onto the Elantra front upright, which happens to have all the same mounting positioning as the Excel front) plus the matching master cylinder (which bolts up to the Excel booster with a change of the pin).
This way I've got the full matching brake system with correct bias, etc.
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