Tacho issues on 16V 4AGE+ITBs; COP+CAS ignition. Adaptronic e420d ECU

[GeeEss]

Hi there,

I bought a Tacho Booster and fitted it but it's not reading accurately.

Initial values in Wari Trigger setting page for Ignition 3 output = 50% (ND) or something like that. Tacho revs = ~ 2x actual revs throught rev range

I contacted supplier & he advised I change settings to Ignition 3 output = 1.5ms but Tacho still isn't working correctly.

Now Tacho revs = 2x actual revs (+/-250rpm) at idle; then start jumping all over the shop when you open the throttle; alternately spiking up to 2-3x actual revs (sometimes Tacho revs acually seem to decrease at a rate inversely prportional to amount I open the throttle???

I have been looking at some Forums and I found the link below. Referring to this article, would my original '88 Bigport Dizzy / Coil have put out a voltage spike or square wave? I.e. is the ECU sending out the same signal type as the original ignition set up did?

http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/tec...acho-tech.html

GS.

[dumbass]

so u r running 4 coils in wasted spark form i guess
so then u will use ign 1 for 2 coils and ign 2 for other 2 coils
and ign 3 for tacho output?

what tacho booster did u use as there are afew different types and they all work on differnet cars
i have 4 to 5 different types i buy or make and only some work on toyotas

u should just buy the autometer 7119 tach adapter as this works on the positive power to coils
then sends signal to tacho
that way the tacho doesnt rely on the ecu for correct signal
adaptronics can be a pain to work with siometines and i regularly need to do firmware upgrade to fix some
stupid issues thats y i choose other brands before these

anyway i would play with figures in tune which is fking shitfight to understand hehehe
so then the tacho reads accurate at idle then worry bout tach booster
or just go buy the autometer one

orig setup prob had stronger signal from coil
where now your signal from ecu is a couple of volts

just build the boosters guys build on here as they seem to work on most toyotas

[jondee86]

99% sure you need a voltage spike to drive the tacho. I used some small
random Toyota relay plucked from a fusebox at pocketparts Removed the
clacker and wired it to switch 12V to ground. Set Aux 8 to "Tacho" on my
e420c and it worked perfect. No cost and piece of cake to do... try it

Cheers... jondee86

[GeeEss]

Hi there;

Yes; running IGN3 = Output @ mentioned.

I bought a custom-made unit off the dealer that supplied my ECU+Harness. I think its a Narva 30A/12V unit with Relay removed + Capacitor added (don't quote me). Re. Autometer - I've already paid $55 for Booster+another $85 to local Sparky to try & figure it out; not about to throw another $100 at eBay for another unit - esp. when they only cost $10 to make

Currently exchanging info/ECU files with supplier in an attempt to resolve issue. If no joy will probably just leave it for now until I've the time / inclination to try and suss it out.

[dumbass]

hehe theres yr problem
the local sparky
they have no idea when it comes to conversions
ill be in nsw in 3 weeks and can probably fix it but i dont want u to throw another 100 bucks to get it working heheheheh

[GeeEss]

Neither do local Mechanics. . . I found that out the hard (and expensive) way. . .

I might just disconnect it (Booster) for now; an epileptic needle is kind of annoying.

[dumbass]

yes hehe
on the other hand i got sick of dealing with idiots in sydney so i moved to qld hehehe

[GeeEss]

Yeah; totally with you there. Me & the missus have been contemplating an interstate move for a while now.

Seriously over this town in so many ways. . .

[GeeEss]

Can you run that by me again Jondee?

The unit I have (bought from the QLD Adaptronic dealer that sold me ECU+Harness for ITB's) has already been modified to work as a Tach Booster so I would have to assume the guy knows what he's doing.

As stated the Tacho readings are all over the shop. I Googled this and it seems to be a not-uncommon occurence.Some articles suggest it may be due to an earthing problem. I have a Multi-meter but I'm not particularly gifted when it comes to auto-electrics so any help in diagnosis / checking of earths welcome

Wiring instructions were basically as follows; T30 > chassis earth, T86 > Ignition+, and then to cut wire from ECU > Tachometer and run one side to T85 & other to T87. i wired it up & got erratic readings described earlier. I also had an identical (unmodified) Narva 12V/30A relay and connected it up and. . .got no Tacho reading whatsoever.

I then called a local NSW Adaptronic dealer and he (I think) said to forget T30 earth wire as Ignition+ wire was already earthed and that I only needed to use 2/4 terminals. He said to simply splice into Tacho wire with a single wire; run that back to either T85 / T86 and run Ignition+ to other terminal (i.e. T86 if tacho wire intercept was running to T85). He said to try this first with my std relay, and once I confirmed it worked to insert the other modified relay. Guess what? - I got no Tacho reading at all with either unit.

I will try your way and see if it makes any difference but please spell out how to "wire it to switch 12V to ground". I have an e420d; I take it setting Aux 8 to "Tacho" will have same effect @ e420c / not f...k up my ECU (my paranoia).

GeeEss

[dumbass]

Don't understand what the f u just said
Do u mean using a relay
I would just keep speaking to the adaptronic guys
As u think they are smart
Or just fit a microleb heheh.

Anyway getting some tachos to work is fiddly and most of the time
Trial and error
I have 5 or so different ideas in my head when I try to get tachos working
on aftermarket ecus so u just have to sit and try different ways and since u won't spend any more money
then I guess your out of luck hehehe
U might have to go a totally different way
Send the cheap shit adaptronic adapter back and buy the auto meter one
It works of the positive to the negative side of coils
So works most of the time

Also test it signal on another tacho
How do u know your tacho isn't fkt

[jondee86]

Andy at Adaptronic wrote...

Coil version (if your tacho originally connected to the coil negative; this is usually the case on a car which had a single coil and distributor from the factory, eg AE86 Sprinter)

1) Get a relay, pull the cover off and cable tie the moving bit so that it doesn't move (in either position is OK)
2) Select an aux output that you're not using (eg aux output 8 )
3) Set its type to Tacho in the software
4) Connect the aux output to one side of the relay coil (pin 86)
5) Connect the other side of the relay coil (pin 85) to an ignition +12V supply
6) Connect the aux output (which also goes to pin 86 on the relay) to your tachometer input signal

Aux 8 simply sinks or switches 12V to ground at the correct rpm frequency. Since this circuit contains the relay coil, the coil experiences a rapidly collapsing field which induces an emf spike... the voltage spike your tacho is looking for. Connect the downstream side of the relay coil (the same side that connects to Aux 8) to your tacho input. It's as easy as that, and it works because that is exactly what I have working in my AE86 right now

Of course, this will only work if your tacho is the old style type that ran off the coil negative.

Cheers... jondee86

[benjamin]

There is also the option to select 4cyl/6cyl/8cyl tacho if you go further down the list, but these are only available on AUX outputs 1,2&3.

I just sorted mine last night and I hooked my tacho up like this, this is the same as what Jondee is describing

I first had it on 4cyl Tacho but it was reading 50% higher so I switched to the 6cyl setting and it now reads near perfect

So if you set yours to 4cyl and it reads double, select 8cyl and it should halve it.

[GeeEss]

I tried this*, and it still isn't working. . .

Tachometer still over-reading by 100% at idle & low revs. I.e. Actual Revs = 50% indicated revs at idle / lower rev range.

When you increase revs steadily it gets somewhere around indicated redline (3500 actual rpm) and then starts dancing around.

• Please check out picture; this is the inside of the Booster I got off ECU / Harness supplier.

I also tried Aux 1 = Tacho; 4 Cylinder Tacho as suggested. No difference.
I also tried Aux 1 = Tacho; 8 Cylinder Tacho as suggested. No difference.

I also tried using a standard relay wired @ below; and the Tacho doesn't even register with either.
i ) ECU/ Harness Suppliers instructions (IGN 3 = Tacho) &
ii ) Adaptronics instructions (i.e. Aux 8 = Tacho; requires pull up)

NOTE: OEM AE92 Idle-up mechanism removed & replaced with 20V ISCV; relevant ECU settings; 1. AUX 3 = Inverted Idle Control, PWM @ 200Hz

Assumptions:

i ) That my tacho is the old style type that ran off the coil negative. Car is an early JDM AE92 originally running a Bigport/ TVIS/ Single Coil+Dizzy.

ii ) That "aux output" = black wire running from the ECU to connector terminal corresponding to Tacho "IGN -" screw on back of Instrument binnacle; as identified by ECU/Harness supplier (which I cut in order to divert thru Pins 85 & 87 of his Booster; @ his instructions.

iii ) That when you set Aux 8 = Tacho in Aux. Out page you then have to re-set IGN 3 output = IGN 3 in Triggering page

iv ) Re. " 5) Connect the other side of the relay coil (pin 85) to an ignition +12V supply". I.e connect Pin 85 to the wire running from the connector terminal matching the track running to IGN+ screw on back of binnacle.

vi ) Re. "6) Connect the aux output (which also goes to pin 86 on the relay) to your tachometer input signal". I.e. Connect the Tacho side of previously cut Tacho wire to Pin86.

I.e. In a nutshell; I take it this just means you just basically intercept (i.e. splice into) black ECU-to-Tacho wire with another wire running to either Pin 85 or 86 on Booster, then feed 12V to the Booster via wire running from Connector Terminal corresponding to IGN+ pin on Binnacle.

GS

[jondee86]

You appear to have this....



Link... http://img366.imageshack.us/img366/7...mulator4ly.gif

It is designed to convert a 5V square wave rpm signal
(that will NOT drive an old style tacho) into a voltage
spike (that WILL drive an old style tacho). I don't think you
have a 5V square wave output ??

Cheers... jondee86

[dumbass]

if your tacho is wrong at idle but accurate higher in the rev range
maybe try running your tacho of just one coil
this should make it read half at idle and up hi all thru the rev range
if it reads half all the way thru then tleast u know your tacho is fine
if u cant get any accurate reading formt he adpatronic then dont watse yr time with it
find someway to run the tacho from either both coils using diodes or a mitsubishi tacho booster which sits
on a galant coil pack or some other device
it seams liek the signal form the adaptronic is not correct
this is y i stay clear of them
by the time u fk around getting shit like this working the bill for the customer has just doubled
and u cant justify 300 bucks just to get stupid fking tacho working