Twin Solex Carbie tuning HELP!!

[SteveXC]

Hey guys,
I recently picked up some twin solexs for my ta22.
They where off an 18RG engine and I have a 2T so the tuning is off.

Ive tried my best to get them tuned and have got them a little better then what they where by playing with the mixture screws.
But i have no idea what I am doing when it comes to tuning so dont want to go any further without getting some advice.

I Just want to tune them enough to get it down to my local carb place and get them done professionally, Its so bad atm i cant drive it.
I searched and found some guides but they all use terminology i dont understand haha so was hoping someone on here could give me a quick easy step by step guide. I can get detailed photos of the carbies if it helps to show me what to do, and also have a video of the engine running to show how shes running at the moment. Just let me know if they'll help and ill upload them.

Any help would be great!! and thanks in advance!

[DaveSpec]

Well i have twin webers on my 18rg and they were completely out of tune so i couldn't drive the car at all but now she drives like a dream. So i'll offer how i tuned the webers and that should be pretty universal for all twin carby set ups. would like some pics though to see what they look like
ok step by step (from memory)
if they carbies were previously working well then dont worry about float levels and things that should be ok
You need to make sure that there are no air leaks between the carbies, intake manifold and engine, you can check this by spraying starter fluid around them and see if the engine noise changes.
if there are no air leaks then you need to sync them, this is a big issue for twin carbies. this means adjusting the throttle plates so both are drawing the same air on idle. the easiest way to do this is to compare the vaccuum of both carbies in the intake manifold so if you could send me pics of that it would be great
once carbies are balanced you adjust the idle mixture screws in set of 1/2 turns and see if the idle changes, you want to find the fastest idle from each idle screw
you then take out the plugs after running her for a bit and check the colour, this governs if you need to adjust the mixture screws further.

This sounds easy, it took me about 3 weeks to get my car going properly, but i had to find all this info myself....
again this was for webers so im just assuming the solex are fairly similar in the tuning process.

[27levin]

Like Dave said first look and make sure that the butterflies are opening evenly, I assume that the basic tune of the engine is ok. Valve clearances, Compression, spark plug condition, Timing. I have worked with lots of Solexes over the years an I recall that some of the later 18RG ones had electronic anti dieseling solenoids on them. That is a solenoid that stops the fuel flow to the main jets when the engine is shut off to stop the engine running on. If this is the case you should be able to start the engine and keep it running by lightly working the throttle that is effectively running the engine on the accelerator pumps. Connecting them to ignition on power might be all you need to do. But like Dave said without a picture for reference we are stabbing in the dark. Cheers Mike

[SteveXC]

sorry for the late reply guys, I havnt had a chance to get some HI res photo but have these on my phone-







They arent the best but until the weekend thats all I have, hope they are some help?

And thanks for the help! =)

[SteveXC]

Dont mind the return fuel tank (Plastic Bottle) I didnt have any fuel hose long enough ahha

Also from what i can tell there might be a air leak.. When i take the vaccuum hoses off the revs should rise yes? They dont.. But there is no holes on the vaccuum lines?
I played with the mixtures a bit more and shes a little better then she was at first, but still really bad, almost feels like timing is out, but its not. Ill upload the video of how shes running as it might help?

Also the car timing on the car, spark plugs, valve clearances are fine, she was running fine into the old carby shat itself.

Sorry about all the questions, just wanna try to get her running good for the all jap day

[SteveXC]

Sorry its so short, was the only was i could get it off my phone, but it gives an idea of what im dealing with.. dunno if itll help or not though

[SteveXC]

Anyone? Hoping to get them done on the weekend so if anyone can help that would be great!


Also- the barrel closest to the firewall is sucking a lot more then the other three..

[DaveSpec]

If the car won't idle when adjusting the mixtures then its definitely down to balancing and you said above that 1 barrel is drawin more air than the others. This is strange because unless they have individual screws for adjusting the air then the 2 barells on a carb should draw the same air.
To sync them I used a monometer (homemade) YouTube it and they'll show you how. Then you need to attach it to the carbie and adjust the butterfly valves to sync them then you link the two carb throttle levers and they should be synced then adjust mistures for best fastest idle on each cylinder then if rpm is too high resync the carbs and lower the idle.
There's plenty of these on motorbikes on YouTube to show you how to do it. After doing this you should get a pretty smooth idle and be able to drive it ok

[SteveXC]

Thanks for the help guys, I managed to get it to idle fairly good now (only by ear, trying to get hold of a unisyn to get it spot on) its not perfect but should be drivable, once i figure out a accelerator set-up. Which brings me to my next question.....

Now Ive seen a bit of debate about making a linkage to fit the twin side drafts or to swap to a cable system, To me swapping to a cable system seems a lot easier and cheaper?

How have others done this in the past? I read that some people get ke30 onwards accelerator pedals to attach the cable to? By looking at the current set up looks like I could modify a cable to fit onto the first piece of the linkage that comes out of the firewall, run it to the right hand strut tower then make a bracket on the manifold/rocker cover then run the cable to that and onto the carbies?

I hope that makes sense? Only reason id do it like that is the accelerator linkage on the carbies pulls up and to the right so by running it that way then straight down onto the carbies it should work. Wont looks as tidy as going across the firewall and straight to the carbies though.

Or is a linkage set up better? if so why?

Sorry about all the questions, just need to get the car sorted by Sunday (All Jap Day)

I did find some info on RODGER's set ups, but having so little time to get it going i really need something i can throw together myself

[Silly Rabbit]

Just to make the accelerator linkage thing easy for you just buy one of the pre-made kits that Rodger sells off his website -

http://www.rmcarburetors.net/Cable%2...tor%20kits.htm

A little exxy I know but unless you have the time and the patience to make up your own then this would be the best bet. I made my own with the outer sleeve from some 4wd and the inner cable came off a Holden Vectra I think it was. The cable has the correct socket to attach to the ball on the arm of the carby linkage. Wish I could give you part numbers and a little more detail but it was only through scrounging at the wreckers that I made the set. I then got a spare TA22 accelerator arm that the pedal attachs to and drilled out the ball for the linkage and made a nut and bolt secure the cable from the engine bay. As you can see it was a fair bit of work to what Rodger is providing. I'm just a cheapskate as my setup only cos me $15 and some time.

Good luck with it.

[Taff]

My cable setup cost $6. Just bought a generic 900mm throttle cable off ebay for a motorbike. I drilled out the ball on the standard throttle lever, twisted the end 90 degress and cut a small slit in the top with a 1mm cutting disk. at the other end i took a 12mm bolt, drilled a hole through it right at the base and threaded the cable through. Drilled a hole into the linkage setup and then when you tighten the bolt it clamps the cable so all adjustment is done at the carby end. Then just a simple bracket to hold the sheath and trimmed to the correct length. Only took about 45 minutes and will work great - especially for $6 at the firewall you can either drill a hole in line with the throttle lever or bend it to line up with the original hole. i just used two large washers and sandwiched the firewall between them as the original hole was too large - didn't want to make more holes in my firewall.

something like this: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Go-Kart-T...item3cc73687fa

if you can fiddle around a bit you can pretty much get any cable to work. it's just a matter of getting everything the right length.

[SteveXC]

I PMed Rodger, but doubt he would be able to get me one in the next day or two, i need it Thursday at the latest and that would be pushing it to have the car tuned on Friday and all ready for the weekend, so I think making one is my best bet atm. I might get one off Rodger later on if mines too dodgy haha.

So I managed to find an old XF falcon accelerator cable in my garage, I think I can make it work too, its almost the perfect length to run from the carby linkage to the accelerator pedal. Im uploading so pics and a video now to show how it should work. All I need to do is make a bracket on the manifold to secure the cable (like the section that holds the cable so it pulls the right way, no idea what to call it, the pics will show what I mean)

Then need to find a way to secure it to the accelerator pedal, Thinking about doing what you done and it should work, its the correct length so fingers crossed. So you have to drill that bit of the linkage off the accelerator pedal? I was playing with it before and there's a clip on it, thought it held it on but couldn't get it off to see.


Ill add the vid and pics after I grab some lunch.

[Taff]

yeah there is a ball and a clip that slides over it. The ball is flared into the hole on the lever so its just a matter of either drilling it out of grinding off the flared section and pulling it through. either works fine. once the cable was in there i crushed it a bit with vicegrips and now it cant come out.

[SteveXC]

If the one im trying now fail I will defs try this, for $6 its worth a go haha

well here's the pics-






The Video didnt upload, so going to re-take it with my camera rather than my phone and re-upload it soon.



There is a spring to go in there on the cable, but i need to find a skinnier one as the current one hits the springs on the carbies. Dunno if itll need one but might help with pulling the cable back once the accelerator pedal is attached. And thats the kind of bracket im trying to make, bolt it to the manifold and secure the cable to it.





As you can see from that pic its just about the perfect length to go to the accelerator pedal. Just need to feed it through and secure it.

Ill be back soon with the video.

[SteveXC]

Video-


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