2JZGTE vvt into IS200

[BrianRA23]

very good work!! essentially everything works as per factory

As you will imagine I was very pleased to see the current things are functioning. However, there are a number of things to resolve before saying that everything is working on the dash, and I hope to get those in the near future and will report on them then. I point this out for anyone reading the post until this has been verified.

Things like the AC and climate control which requires the engine ECU to communicate with the AC ECU will be interesting to see what happens.

A number of dash lights still need to be got working too.

[BrianRA23]

Speed sensitive Power Steering setup
From diagrams I found that the JZS161 Aristo had a steering ECU above the left rear wheel, which seemed like a long way from where it is needed (near the ECU and dash). In a later search I saw another diagram showing the steering ECU above the steering column.

Last night I found a reference stating that the 161 had some sort of rear steering, which explains the second unit and why it is in the back.

Located the wiring diagrams for the front steering ECU, which has 5 wires 1. power from ignition, 2. earth, 3. speed sensor input, and two wires to the solenoid on the power steering pump.

The power steering ecu is a small brown box above the right knee in the drivers position. *The box is about twice the size of a match box (or slightly bigger) so since all the required wires are in the ecu box i have put it there. The spd wire went to the old ecu and is not used on the Aristo ECU, so it is available for the power steering ECU.

I can find no reference to the IS200 having speed sensitive steering. On the high pressure line near the steering rack there is a pressure sensor whose signal went to the ECU, but that was removed as part of the conversion. The 2JZ has the power steering pump on the other side of the engine so I was able to use the high pressure line from the Aristo and manipulate it with heat to get it to be at the correct angle for the steering rack and make it shorter with an extra S since the IS200 engine bay is not as wide as the Aristo.

The reservoir and low pressure lines were easily done with a steel section run across the front (above the intercooler). Interesting that the low pressure lines will crack if you try bend them with heat but if cold they can be worked quite a bit. I started with a rather bendy section from with the car or the frontcut and when finished it was straight and perfect for the job since the ends were barbed to keep the rubber hose from coming off.

[BrianRA23]

I need some assistance to get a signal to the ECU for D, 3, and R from the shifter. D and 3 need to come from the shifter since it is from a movement to the right/left, which is not seen by the selector rod. R should be easy enough since it can be taken from the transmission position switch thank makes the reverse light function. Ideally it would be in a wiring diagram so I can trace the wires to find the output, but I cannot find one. Once I have this I can connect the shift buttons (for when in 3rd or manual mode) and cruise control should work when in D.

Update.
I have updated the previous post to indicate the power steering is now working right. New front springs are installed to carry the extra weight and Koni adjustable are installed. I have replaced the original intercooler pipe with one I was missing (90deg silicon elbow with longer straights) and now can allow the car to run normal boost. So far it seems to not be overboosting, but I need to install a gauge to check this.

A six wire multicore is run from the ECU to the cabin, with two wires for the shift buttons connected at the ECU end. Two other wires will be used for intercepting the MAF signal to get rid of the black smoke under load and lean it out under low load conditions.

The economy gauge is functioning and shows 5L/100km at 100km/hr on the freeway. This seems a bit low, but it doesn't require much accelerator for this. I guess it runs from the injector pulse width and car speed, which is strange since the tank level seems to be going down faster than actual (empty light was on but only took 50L to fill). I only put 1/3 tank in previously so maybe it needs to calibrate or something there and reset at the various intervals.

[George]

I'd fix MAF setup rather than messing with signal interception etc (making things even worse)
I don't quite understand the nature of your problem in getting p/r/n/d signals to ECU. You can trace these wires from gearbox switch with just a multimeter in 20-30 minutes

[BrianRA23]

I'd fix MAF setup rather than messing with signal interception etc (making things even worse)
I don't quite understand the nature of your problem in getting p/r/n/d signals to ECU. You can trace these wires from gearbox switch with just a multimeter in 20-30 minutes

Hi George

I am not really sure if I want to mess with the MAF or MAP - in the earlier 2JZGTE I only had MAP to play with and I got close to the results I had hoped and now I think I need to play with the MAF - time will tell and I will report my results one day when I get around to trying it. I have the wideband gauge output to tell me how I am going once I start with the changes. If anyone has information on how the VVT 2JZGTE determines mixtures I will be interested to have a reads since some indicate the MAP does not have much to do with determining the mixtures.

The ECU gets the P, N, 1 and 2 from the transmission, but it expects the other inputs (R, D, 3/Manual) to come from the shifter through the ECU body wiring. As you suggested I can get the R position from the transmission too and not sure why the ECU doesn't do that by default, but for D or 3 (manual mode in the Aristo) since the shifter is moved sideways no change is sent to the transmission and this is done via the ECU changing solenoids.

For now I can put it in D or 3 and it goes as if in normal Drive and it will change through the gears normally. To change to another gear from the shifter I can only go to either 1 or 2. I need (want) to be able to flick it into 3 and use the buttons on the steering wheel to change through the gears.

Also I am thinking the only reason cruise control is not working is because the ECU does not know it is in gear or more specifically it does not know it is safe to engage cruise control, which is via the fly by wire throttle.

If I get desperate I can find if there is a D position from the transmission and use a separate switch to select between normal and manual mode, but since the IS200 used to do this from the shifter I should be able to repeat the setup with the right information and if need be - some simple electronics.

[George]

R isn't related to shifter in any way, and in 99% cases so is D
Some shifters do select between D and 3 by taking D signal from transmission switch and sending it to either of ECU inputs ("3" or "D" namely), I don't remember if that's the case with JZS171. Anyway first you need to trace these two wires from trans switch.

Then you may run them through any appropriate switch or just wire D to D and leave 3 floating. Incorporating this switch into shifter (so you get 3 when moving it sideways) is just for driver's comfort. If your IS200 shifter has this switch inside get your multimeter again and trace its wires

If you run your engine in stock configuration and it's so rich you have black smoke then it's very likely to be wrong maf setup (get 171 airbox)

[BrianRA23]

R isn't related to shifter in any way, and in 99% cases so is D
Some shifters do select between D and 3 by taking D signal from transmission switch and sending it to either of ECU inputs ("3" or "D" namely), I don't remember if that's the case with JZS171. Anyway first you need to trace these two wires from trans switch.

The IS200 must be the 1% case, and I agree that it seems likely that it gets a signal from the transmission to indicate that it could be D or 3. I will also accept it is for the drivers comfort plus his enjoyment of having more control.

I spent some time gong through the endless pages of IS200 pdf manuals that I have and found a diagram and table that indicates the outputs from the shift lock control ECU are NSSD and MT3 which are also D and 3 to the ECU. When the selector is in D the output to the ECU is between 4V and 9V should be below 1.5V otherwise. The same is for the 3 position so I need to change this so it is earthed when the position is selected as is done by the Aristo selector. A modified version of the fuel pump circuit to change the FPC into an on/off output may be required here - may

Can someone come up with a simple circuit based on the fuel pump circuit (on Wilbo's site)?

[wilbo666]

So I need to change this so it is earthed when the position is selected as is done by the Aristo selector

Sounds like a simple npn transistor will do the job?
i.e.
Transistor base connected to '3' signal fro IS200
Transistor collector connected to JZS161 engine ecu 3 pin
Transistor emitter connected to ground

:-)

Cheers
Wilbo

[BrianRA23]

The dash now shows the gear for all positions and I can select 3 then use the shift buttons on the steering wheel to change up and down. Nice being able to pop it down a gear when taking a corner to loosen the rear wheels. Only driven it once but it seems reasonably clever in what it does and doesn't allow.

To get to this point I decided it was time to allocate some considerable hrs to sorting through the PDF files I had for IS200 and IS300 manuals - there were multiple manuals mixed and with some being 1 page per PDF and other having more. Considering two (of the five or so) manuals were 1500 pages long this was a chore. After doing this and looking at the wiring diagrams I realised that the value of 4-9V was actually 9V-14V - the reason for this is a combination of me and the file displaying spaces as rectangles.

Then I noticed that the Aristo ECU was expecting to get this voltage when selected and I now have no idea why I thought it needed to be grounded.

There is a connector with 12 pins that is not numbered 1 thru to 12, but is labelled A,A,B,B,C,C,D,D,E,E,F,F and is joined together with a male-male joiner and has had me somewhat confused when they refer to different pins as the order is reversed for each connector and both are female. It is hard enough to find references to some of the Lexus body wiring here and then it gets tricky getting the right ones joined. The wires I needed for D were in this connector.

Anyhow the right wire was were located here for D and this was connected to the ECU and also went into body connector to go the shift control ecu. The wire for 3 was already connected so once it got input from the transmission for Drive, the 3 position displayed on the dash when chosen. It seems that to register 3 it must get the D signal from the transmission switch and power on the 3 wire from the shift control ECU.

Next is to see if the AC system will hold gas and if the climate control system is fully functional.

[dumbass]

The 3 signal from shift control is easy
Shift efu doesn't really do much as I throw it out
When in d it's gets 12v
Then turns on this 12v on to 3 when u bag shifter across

I had to figure it out years ago as my cd is only in jap so had to slowly work it out

[BrianRA23]

We put the vacuum pump on the system and all looked good. The alloy pipes going to the front had to be bent quite a bit to make room for the intercooler so this was quite satisfying. There were no leaks and air was being chilled

The A/C was gassed and the compressor was run by setting the temperature on the control all the way down. The system would not function the A/C unless the temp was all the way down. The outside air temp did not work and the problem was found to be the earth wire for this as the TAM (ambient temp sensor) was in the same pin for both the IS200 and Aristo. The wire was found and connected to the E02 earth on the ECU and the outside temp correctly displayed on the dash. The climate control is now functioning normally with the A/C cycling as required to maintain the temperature.

The only thing not working now is the dash water temperature sensor and I have verified the ECU pins are getting the right reading from the thermistor. Not sure how to get this working, but I will get someone to plug into the ECU soon - the plug in tool I ordered has not yet arrived.

I have the fans running full speed at the moment, and will installed the fan controllers etc from the ECU once I work out where they might fit.

With only the factory Aristo ECU installed in the standard location and the IS200 ECU removed.
- Speedo works
- Tacho works
- Volts gauge works
- Economy gauge works
- Fuel gauge works
- All the lights on the dash work
- Climate control works
- TRC is off and flashes to tell me so - the button on the dash does not change anything. The snow and power buttons do not do anything, but with the shift buttons that is OK.

[dumbass]

I have to do an ls1 motor into an is200/300 this Thursday
Hopefully I'll have it running before the day is thru

[George]

and if you don't, what happens then?

[dumbass]

I will get it running
Ls1 is easy to do
Plus I have software to turn security off
I can do them with my eyes closed and hands behind my back
Will try to use factory toyota relays in is200
So I'm not adding extra shit like most do hehehe

[George]

I prefer cars where your extra shit is the only electronic device out there %) well, apart from transplanted engine's ecu. Would you offer some photos/videos of your conversion? I'm interested in is200's ... with their low weight, low hp in registration documents and the ability to put something reasonably big into them