2JZGTE vvt into IS200

[BrianRA23]

Well I am pleased to report it is running, with the new engine and is great to drive. It feels electric off the bottom with smooth power and the gear changes are smooth. When pulling around corners it is great to feel the thing grabbing for traction with not too much pedal movement.

Of course there are a few teething problems but I will need to wait another month to check them out and update about that. I figure I should post some info on what was required to get to this point

Fuel Pump Change

Good reference to get started here.

http://my.is/forums/f221/diy-walbro-...pics-I-409785/

Found under the rear seat cushion on the left side of the car.
The fuel pump was changed out to a Walbro GSS342, which is almost a direct replacement. To change to a return system minimal changes were done.

3.5m of 8mm efi fuel hose was purchased. Normal (non-efi fuel hose) would have been fine but nice to have better quality hose under the car. A brass elbow with a one barb and one threaded section was required plus the matching straight thread and barbed fitting.

To get fuel from the other side of the tailshaft a venturi system is used so the returning fuel must run through this for it to function correctly. There is a picture showing the venturi setup at http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h42.pdf, which has a good description of different types of fuel systems.

The pump output line has an o-ring to push it into the housing for sealing and was left in place when converting to the return system.

To do the conversion the regulator was removed from the bottom and the inlet plugged off (by bronzing in something in the top). This meant the rest of the pump/fuel sender unit and hose to the engine could be left original. The regulator is held in place with same the plastic lower section that keeps the pump in the housing. The only thing the regulator is there for now is to block off one of the internal fuel channels in the plastic housing.

The input to the venturi is now changed to be from engine fuel return line as seen in the picture – simple enough really. This may not provide enough fuel flow for some (8mm lines), but was the least invasive method of installation and seemed to work correctly.

Fuel Pump Reg.jpg
Fuel Pump Reg.jpg
Fuel Pump with hose.jpg

[BrianRA23]

Heater pipe interference

As discussed elsewhere the installation of the twin turbo setup in the IS200 is a problem due to interference for the heater pipes. The alloy housing for the inlet to the rear turbo was modified (as shown earlier) but could have had more curvature added to clear the lower pipe.

The heater pipes was heated using a MAPP gas bottle to allow it to be bent without cracking. This could only be done after freeing them from the heater core and removing them from the vehicle.

The lower pipe needs to be bent sharp to the side, immediately outside the firewall.

The upper pipe can be bent upwards and in towards the engine to to clear the turbo housing.

For the engine installation I found it easier to leave these pipes out while installing the engine and the final adjustments done after it is bolted in place.

IS200 Heater Core.jpg
IS200 Heater pipes internal.jpg
IS200 Heater pipes under bonnet.jpg

I really can't see what people mean when they say the engine sits too far forward using the standard mounts and they consider making custom mounts. There is not much room between the firewall and the engine.

[BrianRA23]

Information required / parts needed

The engine appears to be running a bit rich once hot and I am suspecting the water temperature sensor/sender input. I was reading about 90k resistance when it would have been about 50degC. Does anyone have the expected resistance for the 2JZGTE vvt from the Aristo so I can work out if I need a new one.

I need to source a steering ecu for the conversion as the 161 Aristo locates the unit above the rear left wheel (with the fuel pump ecu). The solenoid is also located on the pump instead of th rack but should not make too much of a difference. I assume getting one from a different Toyota will be fine but not sure which one that will be.

Any ideas?

Also I might be tempted to install a fuel ecu to eliminate the fuel pump noise completely so if anyone knows which units are compatible I would be interested.

Another part I am considering is the installation of an Aristo JZS161 engine ECU from 2000-2002 with inbuilt immobiler - must come with key and extra connector into the ECU, which should allow me to use the existing items in the IS200 and will mean I do not need to install an aftermarket immobiliser to get it registered. If it works I would be willing to swap with my 1998 ECU that does not have the immobiliser. If you know of one please contact me.

[BrianRA23]

Custom Tailshaft

As mentioned previously the flange from the Supra automatic was ordered to replace the three bolt flange and rubber donut setup with a normal four bolt uni joint connection. The flange was supplied to the company doing the tailshaft as the four bolts had the incorrect PCD for the unit joint so the holes were offset and redrilled.

An IS300 diff was installed in the back and the gearbox was located using the Aristo rear crossmember gearbox support resulting in the distance between the face of the two flanges to be 1335mm. New tailshaft constructed from a Landcruiser short tailshaft with a slip joint, which was then cut and a new section added for the required length. A single piece tailshaft works fine and fits in.


Seal change

Front seals changed. Do not try to undo bolt on the front of the crankshaft using ½ drive equipment next time as it broke a Repco unit as well as a Sidchrome bar. Used a socket welded to a heavy steel bar that was hit with a hammer.

To remove the inlet (with VVTi) camgear you need a 14mm allen key and then a 10mm one. Only undo these to remove and be ready to catch all the oil. Do not undo the 5 bolts and it is definitely not required to do this. The 14mm is not very tight and may be able to be undone using other methods – it just keeps the oil inside and has a fine thread and oring under it.

[George]

I would better not consider any hoses under the car. Only 8 or 10mm copper/stainles pipes
p/s for troubleshooting water temp and other things get an obd2 wire. Would cost you $50 off ebay or dx. Google "toyota mini vci".Supplied with everything you need. There's another option though, but it's more tricky.

to eliminate pump noise get rid of walbro and install something quiet. Sard or pierburg for example.

Won't recommend ECU with immobilizer. They don't come complete with keys and tranceivers. It's possible to tweak such an ECU to accept your new key bought separately but you would need additional $$$ for that

[BrianRA23]

The IS200 already has the transceiver, key pickup and other wires in place at the ECU which should allow me to easily use the immobiliser ECU if one is available. The underbody piping is protected with covers etc so I am not to concerned with it getting damaged. It may have been just as cost effective to buy a section or stainless pipe for along the bottom and I may yet do that.

I just ordered one of the mini vci obd2 readers. It would be good to know the expected resistance of the sender so I can decide if I need to order another one in advance.

[George]

If the is200 is 1998-2003 model then your immob hardware is likely to fit, and you'll only have to program your key into the ECU. Otherwise you'll have to get compatible tranceiver first.

I can't help with exact resistance for this particular engine, but you may like the late supra workshop manual easily found on the web.

[wilbo666]

Information required / parts needed

The engine appears to be running a bit rich once hot and I am suspecting the water temperature sensor/sender input. I was reading about 90k resistance when it would have been about 50degC. Does anyone have the expected resistance for the 2JZGTE vvt from the Aristo so I can work out if I need a new one.

For the water temp sensor, use www.toyodiy.com to find and cross reference the part number...
http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/xref?v=...4&s=8942235010

It's the same as a zillion other things. I'd suggest looking at the JZA80 TSRM to see the curve (it's the most convenient matching TSRM I have... )
http://wilbo666.pbworks.com/w/file/f...SA-1995%29.pdf

I need to source a steering ecu for the conversion as the 161 Aristo locates the unit above the rear left wheel (with the fuel pump ecu). The solenoid is also located on the pump instead of th rack but should not make too much of a difference. I assume getting one from a different Toyota will be fine but not sure which one that will be.

I would have thought the IS200 would have it's own power steering ECU? And that this ECU would have remained throughout the engine swap...

I'm not familiar with the IS200 setup, but I would have thought it would simply be a matter of removing the JZS161 power steering mounted control solenoid and making sure that the wiring for the existing IS200 setup is correct!

Also I might be tempted to install a fuel ecu to eliminate the fuel pump noise completely so if anyone knows which units are compatible I would be interested.

I'd think that most of the fuel ecus would work such as JZA80, JZZ30, JZS147, JZX9x etc

Cheers
Wilbo

[BrianRA23]

For the water temp sensor, use www.toyodiy.com to find and cross reference the part number...
http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/xref?v=...4&s=8942235010

It's the same as a zillion other things. I'd suggest looking at the JZA80 TSRM to see the curve (it's the most convenient matching TSRM I have... )
http://wilbo666.pbworks.com/w/file/f...SA-1995%29.pdf

Found the graph on page 377 and it looks like mine was reading incorrectly as I got about 90 kohms. Based on the references above I can use the sensor from the old engine since I know it works. I look forward to seeing the result of the OBD2 reading and changeout.

I would have thought the IS200 would have it's own power steering ECU? And that this ECU would have remained throughout the engine swap...

I'm not familiar with the IS200 setup, but I would have thought it would simply be a matter of removing the JZS161 power steering mounted control solenoid and making sure that the wiring for the existing IS200 setup is correct!

I'd think that most of the fuel ecus would work such as JZA80, JZZ30, JZS147, JZX9x etc

Cheers
Wilbo

I previously found an pic on toydiy that had the Aristo power steer ECU above the rear wheel, but now I have another one showing the steering ecu sitting above the key barrel - when I get home I will look for it. Still can't find the one for an IS200 anywhere so I will continue checking, but removing the solenoid on the aristo pump sounds like it might work. I will have another look at the IS200 rack to see what is one there.

[War_Machine]

This is great stuff a 2JZGTE swap walk through pretty much. Thinking about this for my IS300, it will need the timing belt and a major service done next year(might just opted for the swap instead) so I will start gathering parts for it soon.

Any reason you didn't go with a 6 speed? Or a Single Turbo? Was it because it would cost too much and not very much to gain from it?

Cheers

[BrianRA23]

I look forward to reporting that the dash is fully functional running the Aristo ECU and with the IS200 ECU sitting on my bench - so far it looks promising. This is nice since all the wiring is done up the front (behind the headlight) without much time with your head under the dash or the previously mentioned loom extensions.

I chose the automatic because I like it over having to change gears on those days when you just can't be bothered. Others prefer manual and I appreciate there was a time when I would have gone manual. Being able to push it into third and have the ECU recognise you want to change gears using the buttons on the steering wheel sounded interesting too.

I like things to look factory and there are not many cars with a sequential turbo setup so having very nice power off the bottom was the plan. The modified turbos are meant to be good for 500-600hp at the wheels so I can increase the boost until the 2JZ twin turbo overboosting problem becomes an issue. I suspect the 3-1/2" exhaust will end up with a restrictor, but I opened up the wastegate area a fair bit.

[mattysshop]

very nice work, was looking forward to hearing that all the IS200's dash/fuel gauge etc is working - not that it is very important, but does the L/100km gauge work?

[BrianRA23]

..........does the L/100km gauge work?

Sure does, along with speedo tacho and volts. I think there is an input issue on the engine temp, which I need to confirm.

[mattysshop]

very good work!! essentially everything works as per factory, but with bucket loads more power than the throttle body restricted 1GFE ever could imagine!

[BrianRA23]

Intercooler install

When researching the recommended size I think they were about 150mm high and I suspect this would allow them to sit under the bumper support bar.

Although I recognise there will be no air flow through the core when it is behind the bumper support, the extra aluminium will act as a heat sink for those short bursts of acceleration and most of the air flow will cool the bottom part anyway. With this in mind I have found that a 3” thick intercooler will sit between the front bumper support and A/C condenser. Mine is 320mm high and 550mm long, but it looks like the 300 x 600mm could be an even tighter fit with the risk on not getting the condenser connected. I pushed mine to the drivers (right) side and had the aluminium pipe on the other end extended by about 6 inches to allow a silicon elbow to easily make the connection. Due to clearance issues with the bumper support rolling back in for the curvature of the bumper at the ends I recessed the right side of the intercooler a bit so it could move further to the right and have a long 90deg elbow get around the corner. The bottom of the intercooler is resting on the lower frame radiator support steel.

Either way this will interfere with the condenser connections and the condenser has to be lifted on the left side slightly such that the connection is resting on the new intercooler pipe. With this jammed in there the hard high pressure aluminium AC pipe needs a few sharp bends and hopefully it will be OK still.

Intercooler piping was done using 2.5” stainless tubing and mandrel 90deg elbows. This can be easier using the arc welder with the correct rods (either 309 or 312) and low amps. To stop the silicon coming off small beads of weld are done around the ends of the pipe. To run the pipe through the passenger side and into the engine bay, the window washer reservoir (under the ECU) needs to be removed and have a section cut out for the pipe. Once the section was cut out I was able to get some offcuts of ABS plastic sheet and use my soldering iron to "weld it" to the reservoir. Some small holes were filled with the glue and the final product is robust enough for the installation. Silicon goo did not work as it would not stop leaking.

Silicone required was 3 x 2.5” elbows (two need to be the longer ones) and 1 x 3”-2.5” reducer to come off the inlet manifold and go straight down. The factory elbow from the Aristo does not make the turn quick enough to be used. With the intercooler located tight behind the bumper support there is a thin bit of metal that sticks forward about 20mm on the sides of the "chassis rails" just above the tow hooks. A couple of quick cuts with the hack saw and a nice sized hammer rolled these back to allow the silicon to make the turn.