More celsior error codes - 13, 31 & 52

[roadkill]

Hi All,

well as the title suggests i've got more error codes. Though, these to me are a little new and unique. As a background the P/O replaced the water pump and cam belt, but was a tard and the timing belt looks like it had a screwdriver put through it. So i replaced the cam belt. Recently filled it with water and the o-ring to the back of the water pump was shagged, so last week i took all the inlet manifold out down to this hose. Replaced the o-ring, put it all back together. Before taking off the inlet i had no error codes. Now, the car starts quite fine, runs beautifully and revs nice, all that with no codes. BUT if you stomp on it (in parkm as i've still not driven it) and bring it up to roughly 5500 rpm the engine check light springs to life. It's giving me error code 13 - rev signal 2, 31 - Air Flow meter and 52 - knock sensor 2. Also, once these codes come up i also have transmission codes 62 & 63 (from memory) and they're solenoid 1 and 2. I'm not worried about them yet as it probably needs oil, and well i haven't moved it in months so meh.

Now, once the engine check light comes on it seems to at certain revs it will say sit at 2500 and without changing my foot position it'll drop to 2000, then bring back up to 2500 and will continue to cycle doing that. It doesn't stall, no funny noises, and will still rev up quite fine. It won't do the fluctuating revs thing when the engine light isn't on. I ran it for 5 mins the other day, range of revs below 4k and no error light. So it's not a time thing, it seems to be directly related to a higher set of revs.

So, do i need a new AFM - or can they be cleaned etc? I know you can test them for the resistance - does anyone know what resistance they're supposed to have? Could it just be a crappy air filter? I'm yet to try it without the filter in it.

The knock sensor? Is this telling me that the sensor is faulty, or that the engine is knocking? I haven't put new fuel in it since i got it about 4 months back, so it wouldn't be as good as it should.

The rev signal? I've had this before and fixed it (had the polarity wrong on the cam sensor) But this is beyond me atm.

Any help is much appreciated. I've searched but this seems to be a bit of a unique thing. I'm half tempted to just drive it without burying my foot in it and not bringing up the error code. But i know what i'm like.....

bEn

[dumbass]

try not to clean ar flow meter
code 13 is u have fkt up your cam belt timing
99% of the time if code 13 comes on straight after a belt change
then its the timing is out
1% of the time u have fkt the wiring
if its running bad maybe its making code 3 and f52 come up
so fix code 13 first

[roadkill]

Hi,

mate it's running fine (haven't driven it yet but yeah) Timing is spot on. I've check it sooooooooooooo many times. It's only if i give it a boot full and red line it that the engine light comes on. Otherwise no error codes.

bEn

[dumbass]

Ok cool
Well u must have damaged the wiring
Strange it happened right afte run did the belt
If u he struck I can try to diagnose it for u if car isn't to far

[roadkill]

Hi,

i'm located at virginia - whereabouts are you? I'm sure i could provide some sort of beverages...........

bEn

[dumbass]

That's cool
Would take a lot of beverages to come up to there
Maybe next time I go up to sunshine coast for work

[4th surf]

Odds on somehow you've manage to pull one of the wiring harness earths off one of the heads. Retrace your steps and look carefully

[roadkill]

Ouch. Given the rigidity of the harness anything is possible. I have a spare harness here luckily, but finding where it might be shagged is another issue. Retracing means pulling half of it apart...... i knew it was too good to be true to only do it once......

bEn

[dumbass]

get 4th surf to come and fix it
he might like beer more than i do

unless u pulled tight on harness they are pretty good
only thing i can see is if harness didnt clip back in original spots
and now its rubbing on somewhere
if it ran ok after belt change and only started after manifold change
maybe wires are close to ignition leads which can cause noise if aftermarket
did u remove belt again the 2nd time when u removed manifold

[roadkill]

hI,

all factory leads/wiring etc etc. The second time i didn't touch anything at the front as i didn't want to have to go through doing the timing again! The only thing i can think if it is wiring is under the top of the inlet manifold. I'll take that off over the weekend and inspect it. I also didn't put on one of the brackets near the passengers side where the fuel rail is, so on the off chance that has something to do with it i'll make sure it goes back. Forgot about it till i was cleaning up but it is clear of everything.

bEn

[roadkill]

Hi All,

this is just an update for all those playing at home. I swapped the TPS for another one that i had here (which i'd bought to replace the one on my ls400, that's another story) anyway, swapped it in and hey presto. Runs smooth, no jerking about and no error code for the tps or afm. I do still sometimes get the knock sensor error and the auto error, but they only ever come up together at the same time. AND they don't seem to ever come up once the engine is warm. I think that it may actually have something to do with the auto.

Lesson here? Just because you've replaced it doesn't mean that the bit you replaced it with works any better than the old one!

bEn