tt soarer over boosting

[kremsra28]

ok guys, my mate has just bought a soarer, not sure of the model but it has the 2.5twin turbo motor, it has the usual mods, big exhaust wit big custom dump pipes and the air box has its snorkle cut off and a cold air pipe goin to it, it has no bleed valves to allow extra boost but it does have a t-piece in line wit the boost control solinoid (hobbs preaaure switch) to allow it to cut out at 17psi instead of the usual 12-14psi, all this was done before my mate bought the car and he is worried that 17psi is too much considering that everything else is standard, i have suggested that he cuts out a piece of cardboard wit some small holes in it to strap to the front of the air filter to limit the amount of air that it gets to lower the boost but he said it sounds a bit dodgy,

does any1 know any other trick to lower the boost as it dont have any form of boost control that would make it run so much boost that we can just turn down, would the fitting of a standard air box complete wit the snorkle work??? if so does any1 have 1??

it is only temp until he can get the coin for a decent fmic and other stuff to make it safer to run bigger boost

thanks guys for any help

krem

[CussCuss]

take away the solenoid? theres no real way to adjust it unless its an adjustable type with a screw and a t piece.
If hes worried about popping it, take the controller out until the fmic is in.

[Big rob]

if its like anyother turbo just remove the pressure switch and place a straight pieve of tube from the wasteg gates to the compressor like a stock setup. I.e remove the t-piece and hobbs pressure switch and replace with one piece of tube

[slide86]

i have suggested that he cuts out a piece of cardboard wit some small holes in it to strap to the front of the air filter to limit the amount of air that it gets to lower the boost but he said it sounds a bit dodgy

yes. yes that is. dont do that.....it wont work well and its full backyarder spec.

do as the others have stated and remove the solenoid that is presently controlling the boost. by simply reconnecting the wastegates straight back to the compressor outlets would send the system back to factory spec and hopefully factor boost.

there might be an extra 1psi due to the exhaust, but that should be it.

[love ke70]

umm, 1jzgte...your safe running 17 pound in my opinion. just hurry up and get a FMIC in there to make sure its nice and cool air
but truly...whos scared of running 17 pound on a 1j?

[Big rob]

i want a 1jz, hey i'll trade you my 1G and you can boost the shit out of that i mean a new one is only $800, well from a wreckers and i can take your 1jz
howszat lol

[slide86]

but truly...whos scared of running 17 pound on a 1j?

he is apparently. hehe

[love ke70]

he just needs educating

big rob, ill take your 1g, i need a new one

[poombah]

have suggested that he cuts out a piece of cardboard wit some small holes in it to strap to the front of the air filter to limit the amount of air that it gets to lower the boost but he said it sounds a bit dodgy,

You're taking the piss??

If anything that would be worse for the turbos, theyd be working even harder to make the same boost.

Surely their must be some adjustment there, if you cant wind it down just do what the other dudes have said and flag off the solenoid. With front and rear wastegate lines linked it will probably still be making ~14-15psi if youve got a full 3" exhaust.

Just out of curiousity are there any other gizmos inside? Must have a Fuel cut defender or something else in their to run 17psi as they hit factory boost cut at 13.5-14psi.

- Russ

[poombah]

umm, 1jzgte...your safe running 17 pound in my opinion. just hurry up and get a FMIC in there to make sure its nice and cool air
but truly...whos scared of running 17 pound on a 1j?

well a few things there,

1. motor may love it, but with a stock cooler id think the charge air temps would be up there.

2. factory ceramics dont love more than a 1bar usually, so you drastically shorten their life span.

3. i dont know how different jzz30 fuel maps are but jza70's lean out around 3-4000rpm running 1bar and over, I was running 1.1bar on mine and had AFR of 13:1 between 3-4000rpm

[edwagon]

As above, the factory ceramic turbines won't live for long at more than 1bar.
Definantly remove all the switchs and solenoids from the wastegate actuator hose.
You may find that with the custom dumps, the boost won't come down much. Even an exhaust is enough to push them to 1 bar sometimes, and the dumps remove alot of restriction ontop of that, so you may be stuck with 17psi.
jzz30's run incredibly rich under boost, so there should be plenty of fuel there.
And don't lower the boost by blocking the intake- automotive turbos won't appreciate it very much!

[kremsra28]

he aint worried bout it hiting the boost cut, he just wants to run less boost till he can get the front mount in, the only way i can see how to run less boost is to do the cardboard thing, he is worried running boost like 17psi will damage to turbos and the motor, it has nearly 200,000 on the clock and the guy he bought it off flogged the shit out of it, never warmed it up, never serviced it for the 2yrs he had it, hence yes he is worried bout runnin 17psi through it, the only thing that removing the solinoid will do is to allow it to run more boost, which is wat he dont want, the fmic will be a while yet as he dont have the money for 1!! there is no bleed valve to up or lower the boost except to keep the foot off the gas so thats why i thought if he limits the air going into the motor it will limit the boost, he only wants to run bout 14psi. as for the turbos not liking it, i dont see it any different to having the factory snorkle fitted to the air box, he wuold fit it if he had it to restrict the flow back to standard,

are there any places that sell fmic kits that just bolt on??

thanks for the help so far guys!!

krem

[kremsra28]

You're taking the piss??

If anything that would be worse for the turbos, theyd be working even harder to make the same boost.

Surely their must be some adjustment there, if you cant wind it down just do what the other dudes have said and flag off the solenoid. With front and rear wastegate lines linked it will probably still be making ~14-15psi if youve got a full 3" exhaust.

Just out of curiousity are there any other gizmos inside? Must have a Fuel cut defender or something else in their to run 17psi as they hit factory boost cut at 13.5-14psi.

- Russ

he dont want to run the same boost, he wants to run less boost to make it a reliable daily driver until he can get the fmic, it has 200,000k on the clock, so in my opinion the cardboard trick would be better for the turbos as they wont be spinning as hard on the less boost, so therefore they should last longer, as higher boost makes them die quicker!!
it has something for the speed cut, but the fuel cut defender is just a t piece in line with the boost cut solinoid wit a carby jet in it to vent out some pressure to make the boost cut, cut out at a higher pressure

[wilbo666]

Remove everything in line with the hoses to the wastgates and set them up as per factory (compressor outlet -> actuator). That will give you the lowest boost you will ever get (bar changing the wastegate actuators or disconnecting them so that the wastegates are flapping loose).

The wastegates open when the actuators see the "set" boost that they were made to open at (~7psi for a stock 1jz?)...when they see this boost they will open the turbo wastegates to divert extra exhaust gasses from the turbo to stop it making even more boost (ideally).

Putting stuff in line with the actuator lines obviously changes that...in fact what bleed valves do is make it so that at say 15psi (what you set) the 7psi actuator see 7psi (instead of 15psi)...and only opens then....

Cheers
Wilbo

[poombah]

so in my opinion the cardboard trick would be better for the turbos as they wont be spinning as hard on the less boost, so therefore they should last longer, as higher boost makes them die quicker!!

There is nothing trick about your cardboard trick. It will not drop the boost, it will simply make the turbos work a farkload harder to make the same boost (think of the old sucking a golf ball through ten feet of garden hose adage)... the intake system has little to no bearing on how much boost turbos will make, its the other side.. ie what the other guys are saying take out any restrictions in the waste gate line which is what is altering the boost.

EVEN BETTER IDEA... take the car to someone who knows a bit about turbos, or even to a jap car workshop.. because you dont sound too confident in the area and its better to get someone who is there in front of you and the car to show you what to do instead of you accidently farking your mates car.