front swaybar setup. LCA link points

[CheeseBiscuits]

Hi guys,

I've been slowly plodding along with my ta22 for awhile now, slowly learning as I go.

getting to the point: Currently installing custom LCA's from T3, I've run into the following problem:



as (I hope) you can see from my terrible drawing where the swaybar is suppose to link into the LCA it's about 100mm out.

So I see this leaving me with 3 options:

1)Custom swaybar. probably fairly costly, but should bolt up fine.

2)Custom swaybar links that allow for the LCA to be 100mm out.

3)Drill holes in the LCA that align with the swaybar.


With the 3rd option, will this inturn have a detrimental effect on the effect of the swaybar? If not, will it have any effect?

Are there any other options here?

Cheers,

Merlin

[CheeseBiscuits]

So is this a really stupid question? Or is it not clear?

or a really difficult question?

any help at all would be much appreciated.

[Ken_T]

I don't get what you're asking?? Going by the answers you provided, I'm guessing you're saying that the new LCA doesn't have holes to mount the anti-roll bar in the spot where it would be on the stock LCA.

T3 don't list an arm for TA22, did you get the AE86 one? If so, the arm looks like a stock arm boxed up, not a tubular one like I imagined. If it is, just drill a new hole for the ARB link to go through and a lower hole giving access for a socket to tighten the nut on the underside of ARB link. dimple die the socket access hole it if you're worried about strength but they look all heavy and bulky to me so I wouldn't be worried about it.

[ballpencil]

perhaps you have ruled out this one but how about bending the sway bar so it matches the mount hole? i guess this would shift the chassis side pivot points huh?

[CheeseBiscuits]

swaybar is not easily bent, and if I were to bend it I'm not sure if that would ruin the strength of it?

Ken,

I have a KE70 crossmember (shortened on the outsides to suit a ta22 chassis - so lca mounts are further apart then stock) thus when connecting the LCA (custom made item from T3) the swaybar holes are about 100mm.

maybe this picture shows it better?



Basically what I am asking is, if I am to drill a new hole in the LCA, will this have any detrimental effect on the suspension?

[Ken_T]

Nah, no prob, go for it.

The only difference will be that the car is softer in roll (ARB has a smaller moment arm on the LCA) and be the tiniest bit (in theory, negligible in practice) softer ride rate (suspension stiffness up and down). You probably won't even feel the difference in roll rate anyway.

Nothing to worry about.

[CheeseBiscuits]

Cheers mate.

I think I'm going to go with either drilling a new hole or a eye/pin type link with a 90degree bracket like this:



cheers for the info guys.

[Ken_T]

I think that's the old style whiteline endlinks which they upgraded to their new design because the bushes were deflecting too much under the force.

Man up and get the bar doing real work:

[CheeseBiscuits]

I will look into that. Would have to be the same sort of design as the picture I posted though. Not exactly sure what that type is called?

[Ken_T]

I'll draw you up a diagram of a bracket you need to make and post up a tentative shopping list for you when I'm not on the iPod.

[CheeseBiscuits]

thats awesome.

cheers mate

[Ken_T]

http://www.summitracing.com/search/D...d/?Ns=Rank|Asc

http://www.summitracing.com/search/D...d/?Ns=Rank|Asc

There's the two rod ends you need and you need a jam nut as well, not that they'll come undone while they're on the car. They're pretty expensive but that's because they're metric sized. You could go to a 3/8" hole and have sleeves machined up to suit a 8mm hole but I dunno if it'll be worth it. They're "teflon lined" so they'll stand up to the elements better than steel/steel rod ends. I think M8 hole rod ends would be enough but M10 or 3/8" ones shouldn't cost you a whole lot more if you feel the need to go bigger. It's also added unsprung weight.


You know what to do for the bottom bracket. For the top, either option will do. The one on the right is technically better as it loads the bar purely in bending and not also in torsion like one on the left will. I'm being an engineering nerd here, none of this probably matters. Do whatever seems more practical/easier to do for you.

[CheeseBiscuits]

thats awesome.

Thanks heaps Ken!

You must spread some Reputation around before giving it to Ken_T again.