1jz to 2jz

[HIZOKU]

well the engine andrew is selling is what i was going to buy he called me to buy it and then as i have the manual 1jz on its way i was thinking it would be as easy as just swoping the engine and using what i need from each cut

but now being all confused i dont no what to do

[JP]

you could easily do a manual 2J to your cressida "properly" for under $10K with those two frontcuts. It would be using all factory parts, lines and brackets too

[PlacentaJuan]

just put in the 2j, it cant be that hard

specially if you are seriously considering the 1.5j you must have some skillz0r.

where do you get cheap aristo front cuts btw?

[Norbie]

Seriously, Jap Import JZS147 Aristos are coming out in the next 6 mths or so.. Buy an Aristo Vertex V300 for $15,000 to $20,000 if you want a 2JZ in a Luxo cruiser.. You'd get to drive it lots sooner.....

An excellent idea, listen to this man. An Aristo will be twice as good as a bodged-together Cressida done on a shoestring budget, and probably cheaper in the end. Not to mention Aristos are just plain cool. I'm actually planning to buy one next year for daily driver duties.

[HIZOKU]

i have decided to go 1jz and leave the 2jz alone for some one else to buy as with the money getting the 2jz i could just buy a aftermarket turbo kit and as stated i wouldt mind a astrio next year so we will see how that goes

[Mos]

Hi,
Reading everything I still have no idea why you wouldn't do the 2JZ .. especially with the manual!
Aftermarket turbos fair enough, but the 2JZ in stock form, with no cooler put down 185rwkw - more than most 1JZs with upped boost. Anyway enough evangalising

A couple of comments.

Use the 2J long motor with intake manifold and turbo's etc, bolt the 1J powersteer, alternator, AC comp, engine brackets, flywheel with new pilot bearing in crank...

Powersteering pump either identical or close enough.
Alternator either identical or close enough, if not higher output.
Swapping the AC compressor is probably the only thing that will make things easier.
Keep in mind the pulleys might be different sizes, in which case you may need to swap *all* the pulleys off the 1JZ.

Then use the JZX81 crossmember, powersteer lines, AC lines, radiator, brake booster, clutch master (probably a GX81 GT item), etc etc.

Depending on the version of MX83 the crossmember is the same as the JZX81 (and you can always sell a surplus JZX81 crossmember to owners of older MX83s).
The brake booster *may* foul the rear turbo - I don't know what the differences are between the MX83 and JZX81 boosters but the MX83 unit fouls the 2JZ rear turbo with JZX81 engine mounts.

Issues you may run into include the waterpump setup, the 1J has a hydraulic setup, you can swap the pump to the 2J if you wish to keep the hydraulic fan and the 2J runs a normal clutch fan style waterpump originally. Then there's the sump if the 2J isn't front sump, but you have a front-sump 1J so you can swap that across (with new gasket on oil pickup to oil pump as a minimum)

Aristo 2JZ has a hydraulic fan - Supra 2JZ has clutch fan (as does soarer 2JZ-GE). No issue there with using it with JZX81 radiator.
Aristo 2JZ has a front sump that fits perfectly in the front of the MX83 - looks very neat from underneath

The wiring isn't much different between the two looms, 1J loom is obviously easier, but the 2J loom would only be 45mins to an hour more work.

Err what is your basis for the above advice??

1JZ loom needs repinning of the plugs and minor additions, and more additions if you want the hydraulic fan. To keep the 1JZ conversion completely "plug in" you need to swap all the looms from the half cut.

The 2JZ Aristo wiring is completely different, needs repinning of every single plug (aristo engine loom has a chunky one piece, bolt on connector to connect to the chassis), and a cut/shut of the chassis end engine ECU connector (and a myriad of additions to make everything run correctly).

Nothing even remotely similar between the two looms in the practical terms of wiring them into an MX83... I suppose they both have the ECU in the cabin...

i2obert - please disregard my comments on engine choice at the top - you've already decided

Mos.

[HIZOKU]

i would like to go 2jz but yeah im short 1000 dollers and i dont want to put it on the card haha but i might in the end not sure as the 1jz can put out the power i want and so on but i guess when it comes down to it i can sell the 1jz and 2jz trans and what ever i dont use from the halfcuts

but yeah 1jz can get the power i want with some mods and its ether buy the 2jz or buy a daylie drive so i can then take my car off the road for some bodywork to be done and some other mods

but thanks for your infomation i will keep it in mind in 2 3 weeks when it comes down to what i get the 2jz or the daylie driver ??

[Mos]

One more thing to keep in mind - the 1JZ ECU will not run the 2JZ auto box... (even if the 1JZ ECU was an auto) so you wouldn't be able to sell a 1JZ auto package.
Mos.

[HIZOKU]

yeah i understand that it just ment i could sell each item sorry should have typed that

[JP]

the way I do my looms it's about 45 minutes more work for the 2J, I haven't done as many as you MOS, but I've done quite a few.

[Mos]

the way I do my looms it's about 45 minutes more work for the 2J, I haven't done as many as you MOS, but I've done quite a few.

Fair enough Despite popular belief, I haven't done that many, but depth of understanding and hooking up everything as close to factory and as close in appearance to a factory setup takes time.

Are you incredibly efficient, or is it just the way you do looms?

Mos.

[JP]

It takes me quite a while to do the looms as I strip them right down, trace each wire and label when I have no diagrams available, then depin the not required wires, add or lengthen other required wires, and reloom the lot. Eg if I was doing the loom for i2obert's swap, I'd remove the ABS and auto related wires as they're not required in his car. When I did my chaser I removed the ABS, Trac and Auto stuff as none of that was required and I changed to a JZA70 throttle body without the TRAC parts for a cleaner install. Everything else remains and works like factory, and the loom is plug'n'pray

[Norbie]

Norbie's wiring method:

1. Hack off everything at the chassis plug.
2. Hook up power, fuel pump and starter to the relevant wires.
3. Start up and drive away.

I like the above methods better, but mine sure is quick.

[Maverick]

wtf??? an aristo motor will drop in, bolt up the r154 gearbox and thats it, its no harder than putting a 1jz in, just use jzx81 brackets, they`re essentially the same motor.... then you can get upset that you paid around $7000 for all this shit, why don`t you sell your 81 cut, then buy a gearbox and the 2jz cut... much cheaper....

[HIZOKU]

well as for the jzx81 halfcut i need alot of things from there still think about it not all the aristo stuff just bolts up and all you need is the engine mount....

i will need cross member from it all the manual stuff air con lines and so on

people should stop posting here every time i read it makes me want t oget the 2jz more and more but i cant people dont make me spend all my money

maybe another time