Tested the resistance acorss the crank angle and got 1074 if that is any indication to any one
Ive put a 1jz in a gx81.
wired it up all fine everything seems to be working
starts fine and runs fine for about a minute or two then gets a miss.
Ive changed coil packs to known working one
changed ecu to a know working one
changed igniter to a working one
gapped BKR7E to .8
Replaced coolant temp sesnsor with a brand new tridant unit.
The cel was wired up but was only giving me one warning code.
52 which is knock sensor which wasnt plug in proprolly which is now and still the same thing
after i did that i got cel code 12 a hour or so later
so now im thinking its the cam/crank angle sensor.
can any one guide me in the right way to work out which of the three are at fault
Tested the resistance acorss the crank angle and got 1074 if that is any indication to any one
So, with everything replaced does it still show the same behavior? Running ok for just a minute after being started?
1JZ-GTE, vvti or not?
Is the code you got last persistent? If you clear the codes will it appear once more?
resistance of ~1kOhm is ok. Could be broken gear tooth, which would explain both the 12 code and non-stable work. That could happen upon non-qualified service like seal or timing belt replacement etc. But still too little info to make a sophisticated guess.
USSR GAZ24 with 1UZ-FE VVTi (UCV24) http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/showthread.php?t=60301
Engine conversion is when you drive a shitbox which costs a whole LEXUS to own
1is is non vvti from a jzx90
I shall reset the school tonight and see If the error is persistent.
I was hoping it wasn't the geare itself
Forgot to answer your question. With all the parts mentioned replaced I still get a miss a free minutes after started.
Also displays a very low idle.
I'm not running a vsv valve and the blow off valve has been deleted of that helps at all
would it be any good to fit back everything previously deleted/modified? Just for the case. Also there's a good news, since yours is not vvti, free obd1 scan software should be available (while there're quite few things on the web which would scan obd2 jdm cars, e.g. those with vvti jz engines).
USSR GAZ24 with 1UZ-FE VVTi (UCV24) http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/showthread.php?t=60301
Engine conversion is when you drive a shitbox which costs a whole LEXUS to own
i think toyota dont call it obd1
u cant get much info thru diag plug in engine bay
u need to wire up the one from under the dash
check cam sensor plugs
ive seen them get brittle and also get oil down
the plugs if the rocker covers leak oil
dont know y u changed coolant temp sensor
they never fail
code 12 is yr crank signal
so either bad wiring or like george said if u did crank seal change
u might have damaged gear
put an oscilloscope on the signal wire se if u get nice neat signal
ive seen this happen afew times on subaru motors when they cant get crank
timing belt gear of easily and they fk it if the person is a noooooobbb or backyard mechanic
celupra, any progress so far?
USSR GAZ24 with 1UZ-FE VVTi (UCV24) http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/showthread.php?t=60301
Engine conversion is when you drive a shitbox which costs a whole LEXUS to own
Well no, i actually just got home, went camping with a few mates to go watch the southern 80,
absolutely ridiculous motors in that boat.
As for replacing the vsv and bov.
I dont think that will get me any where as neither contoll my spark.
I guess ill be pulling off the harmonic balancer this week to look at it.
as for testing the cam pos sensors, what resistance should i be looking at?
p/s one guy experienced in namely jzx90's (1jz-gte non vvti) told me that in these cars that error 12 is only possible when sensor wiring is damaged (broken or shorted). So maybe it's good to look for loose connection.
Your resistance of ~1k ohm looks good. Don't know exact value though, nor I have jzx90 repair manual
USSR GAZ24 with 1UZ-FE VVTi (UCV24) http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/showthread.php?t=60301
Engine conversion is when you drive a shitbox which costs a whole LEXUS to own
FYI, a lot of 2JZGTE info is relevant for 1JZ info, and is much easier to find as they sold the 2JZGTE in the USA so there are English manuals aroundYou do have to use a bit of common sense to work out what is different or the same tho
i.e. Page 4 of the following says 1630Ω to 2740Ω cold and 2085Ω to 3225Ω
http://www.turbosupras.com/pdfs/JZA8...2JZ-GTE%29.pdf
Cheers
Wilbo
code 12 has to do with crank sensor or both cam sensors and their related wiring
so check crank sensor plug for damage near exhaust
check cam sensor plugs for damage due to being old and brittle and they crack
also check cam sensors and plugs for oil in them as oil leaks form rocker cover and
u slowly end up with oil residue in sensor plugs
get an oscilliscope and measure the 3 signals
ne and g1 and g2 at ecu
if any are playing up u will see it straight away
also will tell u if gear is bent
but if car runs fine for a minute then misses i doubt its bent teeth
while its missing unplug an injector at a time and see which cylinder makes no difference
thats yr dead cylinder
so then check spark and injector on that cylinder
Bookmarks