2TG Camshaft dowels missing????

[MorGo]

There is no need to "prime" the tensioner.What it needs is correct adjusting.Factory instruction is to tighten the long nut until there is about 1,5 mm movement in the piston (this is checked by pressing the piston thru the hole on the end of tensioner)
Myself I just turn the nut and sametime feel the slack on the chain between the cams.When tight fingergrip can lift the chain few mm off the horizontal quide that's it.
That way even loss of oilpressure cannot loosen the chain so much that the chain can jump over the gears.Then just tighten the narrow locking nut so that the adjustment stays.

[rmwood7]

I'll have a go and let you know how it turns out.

[rmwood7]

That fixed the tension chain.
No compression in 2 and 3, ask the boss for more overtime and get it completely rebuilt.
Thanks for everyones help

[jb_22]

could just be a HG - pop the head (remember the 2x 12mm nuts under the front) & inspect the bores for scoring and overall condition. Inspect the valves too, especially the seats because when the dowel popped, the cams may have interfered bending the valve head. You will notice out of roundness if you try lapping the valves while the head is off (or just put the valve in a drill & spin it, that will show up any slight bends). Once the valves check out okay, try a new $90 HG & if that fixes the compression - happy days.

[rmwood7]

I have been getting quotes, about $2ooo, so I will get it rebuilt, I mean we could go on and on.

[71TA22]

I have been getting quotes, about $2ooo, so I will get it rebuilt, I mean we could go on and on.

You got it. Any time you have an incident like yours its rarely a quick fix.

[MorGo]

Remove the head,find the bent valves,inspect the intake quides for cracks(on exhaust they don't matter,the possible broken pieces just go thru exhaust pipe;in intake they go to engine),replace the bent valves,adjust the clearance and put the head back.That's it.
You can even find the bent valves by checking the valve clearance;the bent ones have exessive clearance.

[rmwood7]

Heads coming off saturday,and we shall see.

[rmwood7]

All bent and the pistons are loose, so save up I'm thinking.

[71TA22]

Put up a wanted thread. You may find a perfectly good engine for much less than the cost of a full re-build.

You can then slowly build up the really good parts to do a top quality job.

[jb_22]

+1 for Mike's advice - find a 2nd hand motor with good compression & just run that in the car while you fix the 2TG.

The next motor rebuild I do I plan on having a spare shitbox motor to run in the car while a good motor is getting painstakingly built. I found having the car off the road leads to shortcuts here and there to try and get it on the road quicker. eg. using 2nd hand upper timing guides, non-forged pistons.

No matter what you budget $ and time wise, it will always cost more and take longer.

The pistons will rock a little bit in the bore with a cold motor. With heat, alloy pistons will expand more than the cast iron block when the motor is running. Pistons usually have a smaller OD at the top than near the skirt because the top gets hotter due to combustion on that surface.

[rmwood7]

I've got hold off a 85 Ford Laser to use while the whole car is being fixed up, Motor rebuild, a few minor dings repaired, new clutch, check and fix brakes, suspension, steering etc.
Thanks for everyones advice.