1GGTE Body loom plug HELP ME FINISH MY CONVERSION!!!!!!!!!

[Admiral coFF33]

Hey guys,

Im just finishing up installing a Gen3 1GGTE (grey plugs) into my GX71 i just bought, which originally had a Gen1 1GGTE (yellow plugs) from factory.

Im having trouble with the main bodyloom plug which contains b+ M-rel Ignitor/injector power / starter power etc in the glovebox area.

This is the plug here :





As you can see the pins im having issues with are the 1/2/3 in the centre of the plug, as the rest of them are in correct positions and are fine.

On the body loom side :

Pin 1 : Fat Black w/white trace- Gets 12V when key is on start (cranking)
Pin 2 : Fat Black w/red trace- Gets 12V when key is on "on" (ignition)
Pin 3 : Fat Black no trace- gets no 12V ever at all.

I obtained this pinout diagram from Supra.co.nz of the 1GGTE Engine loom female side of the plug :



but on my 1GGTE Gen 3 loom:

Pin 1 : Fat Black w/Blue trace- Gets continuity to Starter motor / Injector plugs / Ignitor
Pin 2 : skinnier Black w/Blue trace- Gets continuity to Starter motor / Injector plugs / Ignitor
Pin 3 : Fat Black w/orange trace- M-REL ?!??


So when, on the engine loom side, either of the Black w/blue trace wires are connected to pin 2 on the body loom plug, and the key is switched to ignition, the starter motor starts to crank the engine constantly!!!


the looms havent been changed, or modified, and i cannot see any other issues with the plug as the rest of the wires line up to the correct colour wires each side.

So a few questions here, Why would BOTH Black w/blue trace wires on my engine loom be connected to the starter motor trigger but also have continuity to the injector plugs and ignitor?
I asked Adsport what he thinks (genius) he said a relay would get around the starter motor issue which im totally cool with doing, but in saying that even if i connect the skinnier black w/blue trace wire which is apparently "Power to injector ballast resistor" to 12v the starter motor will start regardless...


Help!

[Looonie]

The starter wiring should consist of one thick wire (black with white trace in GZ20) and one smaller wire I though, from memory green/yellow combination...

I'd have to double check though as I just ran an all new starter signal wire.

Don't have anything factory Gen 3 at home anymore, only 1JZ-GTE engine loom, GZ20 facelift dash loom and Gen 2 1G-GTE loom and GZ20 pre-facelift dash loom.

I'm sure somebody here has a facelift GA70 Supra you can pull the glovebox out of

[ddeane]

Gee don't things travel. That diagram was produced by me in 2002 when I was doing my conversion. It was however from a GA70 half cut which was fitted with a Gen2 engine not a gen 3 so there is every likelyhood that it would not be the same as yours.

Craig

[Admiral coFF33]

Craig,

its about the ONLY fucking thing
on the whole interweb
that makes any sort of sense.

[Javal]

Craig,

its about the ONLY fucking thing
on the whole interweb
that makes any sort of sense.

Coff, i was wondering how you were coming with this. Why'd you decide to ditch the whole Gen1? The head was totally reco'd so it might be worth hanging on to.

[Admiral coFF33]

Javal :

Welcoming 2012 « coFF33

[CrUZida]

Dude, you are getting continuity through many wires because you are measuring the resistance of the starter solenoid coil, through the block, and back through an injector.

[RA35GT]

From what I gather:

Body Loom Plug
Black-White is the starter signal from ignition switch to the neutral start switch and ECU NSW.
Black is the return from the neutral start switch (which went to the starter motor and ECU STA) (shows nothing now because I'd imagine the neutral start switch to be sitting on the floor on the auto still!)
Black-Red is the ignition power which goes to injectors/ignition.

Engine Loom Plug
Black-Blue - I don't understand why the starter motor and injectors etc are connected. Possibly a short in the wiring somewhere?? Might pay to trace wiring back from the starter.
Black-Orange - Since it's a thick wire it could possibly be the output of the M-REL which powers the ISCV etc. This is usually Black-Red, but you should be able to buzz this out? (I know the trigger of the M-REL is usually Black-Orange, but it's usually a thinner wire)

I'd trace the wiring on the engine loom plug and see where it goes, should be able to give you an idea of what each pin should be then.

Haven't really played with 1G's man so can't be 100% definite. If you still need a hand on the weekend/tonight let me know man.

[RA35GT]

Dude, you are getting continuity through many wires because you are measuring the resistance of the starter solenoid coil, through the block, and back through an injector.

I thought that may have been the issue initially also, but Coffee said when he joined the wires up and turned it to ignition it cranked continuously.

Maybe just the way I read it.

[wilbo666]

I don't understand why the starter motor solenoid is is connected to the injector resistor etc? You have confirmed with a multimeter that is how the engine side wiring of your engine is currently? It doesn't sound correct

If you can't find drawings I would be tracing back on your engine loom wiring. The starter motor selenoid wiring should be very easy to trace back using a multimeter

Perhaps someone has stuffed with your new engines starter wiring?

I would sort out the starter wiring and the go from there

Cheers
Wilbo

[Javal]

Javal :

Welcoming 2012 « coFF33

Noooooooooooooooo fucking shit. How the fuck does a reco head stick a valve AGAIN? Probably a good idea to fuck the whole thing off.

[Admiral coFF33]

with the Solenoid trigger wire unplugged at the starter motor (which is a thick black w/blue trace)
and using my multimeter the wire connects directly to the thick black w/blue trace on pin 1 on the engine plug mentioned in 1st post.

doing the same with my multimeter at Pin 2, gets the same result.

The Black w/orange wire, im yet to find if that has continuity with the injector plug. If it does, id say thats what needs 12v with key on ignition position.


Im considering the following, Assuming Rudi is correct in saying the skinnyer black w/blue trace wire at pin 2 is for Neutral start switch.

1st Relay setup using the the body plug Black w/white trace (12v when key is on start) as a trigger for the relay to directly power the starter motor.
2nd Relay setup using the body plug Black w/red strip (12v when key is on Ignition) as a trigger wire for powering the Black w/orange wire off the engine loom plug. Assuming here the Black w/orange is the power for the injectors etc.... (will test when i get home this arvo.)

sound ok ?

[CrUZida]

I don't understand why the starter motor solenoid is is connected to the injector resistor etc? You have confirmed with a multimeter that is how the engine side wiring of your engine is currently? It doesn't sound correct

I found the same on my 1UZ only a few months ago.

The starter solenoid resistance is only a couple of ohms, as are the injectors.
So if you have the multimeter on 'beeper' instead of 'ohms' it will beep (I think the threshold is about 6 or 7ohms from memory).

Took me a couple of hours to realise this (was running on no sleep, day 4 into conversion)

[auto351]

My Gen 3 plug is somewhat different but still has the 3 large centre Pins so may be the same.

Pin5 = (Body loom side) Connect to Circuit opening Relay (Pin 3 Coil); (Eng Loom side ) connected to A/T N/S Switch if fitted also feeds ECU STA input

Ping10 = (Body loom side) Connected to IGN Switch ST1 ; (Eng Loom side ) Conects to the other side of A/T N/S Switch also feeds the ECU NSW input; if you have a M/T then Pin5 and Pin10 are shorted via loom.

PIN14 = (Body loom side) Connects to Ignition switch (IG2); (Eng Loom side ) Feeds Injectors and coil

Hope this helps

[EldarO]

john, stop losing sleep over it, i shall come and sort it out when i have the time, ill pop past tomorrow if your out the front.