Doesn't sound too good, where is your Pod / air filter intake air drawn from is it directly in the path of the thermo Fan air ?
Hello,
I'm wondering if there is a way to combat the load that seems to get put on the motor when the fan kicks in. I've got an ae92 with a 4agze with a wolf3d and seems when the thermo fan kicks in and the engine gets hot it seems like its starting to flood and I need to get the motor some decent revs to get it all running smooth and I need to give it an extra 1000 rpm or so to take off from the lights. Could it be the fan is draining electrical power from the motor. still reads on hand controller +14v.
Or could it be a bad tune? I have had it across the dyno to be tuned. But I'm not 100% convinced they did a very flash job
Last edited by Thirteen13; 20-11-2011 at 01:12 PM.
Doesn't sound too good, where is your Pod / air filter intake air drawn from is it directly in the path of the thermo Fan air ?
was the ISCV wired in with the wolf? it should idle-up slightly when the fan kicks in. If the idle drops you may head into an area of the fuel map that wasn't tuned very well.
Is there much voltage difference at the 12V injector feed when the fan's are off or on? If it differs by a volt or more the injector deadtime can change which also effects the fuel map.
I'd be looking at the tuning first.
Nup no idle up infact the engine feels like its starts to struggle a bit then it feels like the motor is flooding cause if you try to take off the motor seems like its drowning then if you can get the revs up enough to nail the throttle you can look out the back and paint the other persons car in fuel smoke
Sorry my wolf knowledge is pretty low, what is the iscv and where would it be.
Thanks heaps guys
Last edited by Thirteen13; 06-11-2011 at 11:41 AM.
Check that the earth for the fan motor is either a healthy chassis point or the engine block. Highest current draw for a fan motor is on startup but if it's a constant high-current draw (and thus loading up the alternator) then there could be issues in the wiring of it.
Also, where is the fan getting it's high-current supply from? Not from the EFI or IGN fuse/relay I hope.
The iscv is the idle control solenoid valve, not sure with the wolf, but with my microtech, the aftermarket ecu didn't cooperate with it, so
It was replaced with a ford evis one
I'd be surprised if a thermo fan was pulling enough power to really affect the engine speed. Possibly if there's something wrong with the electrics, but I'd suspect the tune. One way to exclude the fan would be to disconnect it and take the car for a drive (of course making sure you don't overheat it). If your problem disappears even when hot then it's the fan, if you still have the same problem then it's elsewhere.
Since you have a hand controller you can watch injector time (or duty cycle), ignition advance and all sorts of other fun stuff as the engine warms up and see if anything unusual happens. Possibly the coolant temp fuel trims are messed up.
Hen
I also have an old map for Wolf3D V4 running a stock 4AGZE if you're interested in something for comparison.
I need a working 4AGE bottom end. Pref smallport GZE, but all others considered. Also complete motors.
Drift Volvo. Was fun. 2JZ next time.
Hey Hen,
It's definitely the fan the gze only seems to get all sulky like a spoilt brat when the fan kicks in, and judging from the sloppy swap whoever did on the car im pretty sure that's what it is.
When i get some time I'll get in to have a look at wiring, make sure the earth is all good.
Actually something I remember the other day when I was thinking about it was, on the old tune I think it didn't struggle so much so could possibly be the tune. Best way to find out is to get in there!!
Cheers though everyone you've all been super helpful.
This is going to sound retarded but the peanut that did the swap wired up the ac condenser fan as the engine fan.
So I'm going to obviously swap back to engine fan. Unsure if it works or not. Is there any way to test if its operational without wiring it in?
Ign on, drop ecu temp sensor into boiling water, fan should come on.
I have a wolf3d that controls engine fan!
I would assume I need to send wolf signal to the engine fan rather than ac.cond fan. Im only making assumptions here but would you need to wire the wolf to send the signal from the ecu to the fan. Or does the wolf switch on a relay or send power to something. In which case wire the power away from the ac cond fan and send it to the eng fan?
Thanks
sorry, misread your question, thought you were asking how to test if the ECU could control the fan.
The ECU will most likely provide a ground for a relay that supplies the high current to the fan. So the wiring will probably be something like:
Ign switched +12V -> relay coil -> ECU -> ECU earth
and
Battery +12V -> fuse -> relay contacts -> Fan -> engine/battery earth
Do not hook the fan directly up to the ECU.
If you know that the ECU is doing the above already but to the wrong fan, simply plug the correct fan into the Fan Relay.
Chuck is correct. Fan output pulls to ground to turn the fan on.
You can test to see if the radiator fan works by connecting 12V direct from the battery to it. Also when wiring it properly double check it spins the right way.
I need a working 4AGE bottom end. Pref smallport GZE, but all others considered. Also complete motors.
Drift Volvo. Was fun. 2JZ next time.
Cheers guys! Still learning the mysteries and secrets to this mysterious car!
Good point too hen. It is the stock fan and looks to be correct.
Na wouldn't wire the fan straight to the ecu I'm sure it could cause it to go into meltdown.
All I'm wondering then is, if the engine fan has no connections of + or - can I pull the power that is set onto the ac cond. Fan by cutting into that wiring to the ac fan and running it onto the engine fan, as I'm removing the ac for front mount. Or not to do that. The concept in the car is there the fan is switching on correctly, it's just the wrong fan
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