Making a LEEN J160 from a Toyota J160

[oldeskewltoy]

And so it begins....... above you will note is a parcel that just came to me from Joe Leen. Inside this parcel are 2 LEEN adapters - one for me, and one for the other purchaser here in the USA - Jesse

In the next few days/weeks, Jesse and I will be getting together to assemble my LEEN J160 (yep, I"m the guinea pig in the good ole USA) I'll be reporting all of the issues, and procedures to make it easier for you to do yourselves.

The first step was the purchase - not that hard... except prying $2 grand plus from your wallet

the second step was getting it here - The shipping charges on 2 kits was 135 euro - as can be plainly seen from the "EIRE" labelled tags. Oh! btw, that is NOT part of the purchase price.


its only money


In the next day or two, we will open all the packaging and account for all the parts purchased.

[oldeskewltoy]

Well, since half of this box of goodies was not mine, I decided to wait till Jesse had some time. Joe used a small hamper basket to hold all the parts. As you can see each part is well wrapped



We unwrap all the parts to make sure LEEN sent us everything we purchased



Each of the pieces is laid out to check for condition. It all looks GREAT... We did have to find 7 flathead allen metric 8mm bolts. We also had to salvage the seal. This MUST BE DONE WITH CARE... that particular seal comes on no other car... that means the only place to get it is where the J160 was offered.... Europe, or Japan


We bring the trans up from my basement, and found one drain plug in the center section, the plug is out of view. This shows the J160 in the drain pan, bell down, we had removed what we thought was a drain plug from inside, but in reality was a shift detente plug - no crime, no foul, no issue.






Here is the FSM view of the bell components. I'll be referring to this and likely reposting it (if easier then the viewer going back) to make the explanations easier. The detente plug I referred to in an earlier post is # 3



Once we were confident the box was empty, we proceeded to remove the bell section from the rest of the transmission. Toyota's procedure is to rest the bell as we had and disassemble it from the tailhousing forward. Since we have no need to rebuild it, Jesse and I decided to start it from the other end.

We began by removing the front bearing retainer inside the bell housing. There are 7 bolts (1) that fasten it to the bell. These will be replaced for the 7 flathead allen bolts we had to supply for assembly of the LEEN.

Once the bearing retainer was removed, there were 2 large snap rings that needed to be removed from the main, and lay shaft bearings. Using a snap ring plier the snap rings were removed

We then removed the reverse idler gear shaft retention bolt(4a) from the side of the trans case.

Followed by the shift arm pivot bolt (5) This will be one of the trickier parts on re-assembly since we chose to disassembly it from the bell housing end.


Here is an annoted version of the above parts layout. I've used the same numbers to help show the viewer how the LEEN fits. #4a shows the reverse gear shaft bolt hole, and how the reverse gear shaft nests into the side of the adapter, and #1 is pointing to the reason we need 8mm flathead allen bolts instead of the regular 8mm bolts. #5 is where the shift arm fulcrum bolt fits through the case to retain the shift arm



We then removed the 10 8mm bolts holding the bell section to the center section of the transmission. Following procedures described in the FSM we struck the bell housing with a mallet to break the sealant bond



At this point Jesse and I started, and failed, initially to wiggle the case free. Not wanting to damage the mating surface of the block, we chose not to pry inside the split case. Not until after we took the above photo did we see the prying flanges in the center of the above photo. Using a screw driver we gently worked the prying flanges until the gap was about 5mm. Then using the handle of the mallet we used above, we tapped on the main, and lay shaft bearings till the front of the case came free



other things to note in the above photo....... the bearing retainer, the removed seal from the bearing retainer, and the shift arm fulcrum bolt. For those with sharp eyes you can also see the shift arm in the gearbox and see the hole it pivots on the fulcrum bolt


The input shaft seal, as mentioned earlier is not available in the US, at least not from Toyota. The seal part number is 90311-29001. I will recommend to LEEN that they add a new one to the minimum order for the next production run. Upon close inspection the seal in my J160 showed no wear, so I used a 90 degree screwdriver to GENTLY work the seal free from the bearing retainer




more to come........

[SilverRA23]

And for the un-educated among us.. what is a LEEN J160 and why is it better than a standard J160??

[ctrain]

super lightweight parts/kit?

[SilverRA23]

that would be LEAN I am tipping

[ctrain]

yep thats what i was thinking aswell haha

[timbosaurus]

It's a fancy 4A to J160 bellhousing adapter.

[oldeskewltoy]

And for the un-educated among us.. what is a LEEN J160 and why is it better than a standard J160??

because you can use it behind a 4AG (n/a or boosted)... with no worries of T50 weaknesses

It's a fancy 4A to J160 bellhousing adapter.

yep....

for more info on the product itself....... http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/tec...e-adapter.html

[oldeskewltoy]

more to come........

We did do one additional thing last week... we "fondled" the parts some and did a first fit...



Jesse came back today, we had finished disassembly, so we proceded on to re-assembly.

The J160 is designed to be disassembled from the tailhousing forward - first the tailhousing, then the middle section, and finally the bell end. What we are trying to do is to just work the bell end of the problem, and leave the other 2 sections untouched - for those purchasing the shifter relocation, you will begin your disassembly at the tailhousing.

Leaving the tailhousing and center sections untouched gives us one problem to overcome...... How to hold the 5th gear lever in one place, so that it stays in that place until AFTER the box is closed, and the fulcrum bolt is fitted. (#5 above) LEEN suggests using thread....




Jesse tried the thread retention method



Do to the curved shape of the shift arm, having the thread hold in one place wasn't easy. To make a long story short... it didn't work for us. While Jesse was running the thread, I began working on a back-up plan. I went inside and picked up 2 very thin rubber bands, the kind used to hold a advert flyer(newsprint type) together. The thickness of the rubber bands were about 1mm, they were about an inch in diameter. We used one around each end - this held everything in the right place for the fulcrum bolt to slip into position once the case was closed



Yes - the 2 rubber bands remain inside the gear box. I fully expect the petroleum based lubricants to soften the rubber and make the leaving behind of 2 rubber bands a non event.


So with the key problem resolved, we proceded with the re-assembly



The 2 shafts are drawn a bit forward so that the snap rings can be fitted.

Once the snap rings were fitted, the reverse idler retention bolt (4a in previous posted diagram) is fitted. The original bolt is just a touch to large, I supplied another Allen head bolt and used it to secure the reverse gear idler shaft



Once the adapter was installed, the seal plate was added. Here we are applying the sealant, and the previously removed seal, is now securely installed in the seal plate.
The one area outside the main sealing area is a hole allowing the shift rods full range of motion, we sealed all around it so there would not be any leaks.



If you look carefully you'll note we used a little anti-seize under the flatheads to allow a more accurate torque value, it also should minimize oxidation that might lock in a bolt.

And here we have one LEEN J160.... without the shortened shifter location

[SRacin]

Whats the weight of the finally assembly as it sits in the last photo?

[oldeskewltoy]

Whats the weight of the finally assembly as it sits in the last photo?

of course I can't get exactly what is called for because at present I no longer have the 4A bell, but I was able to get this.......

[SRacin]

thanks man.
God dam its a heavy mofo!